I am restoring a '69 Camaro and have sandblasted the bottom of the vehicle. I was ready to do the POR thing but have now found some information about a product call Rust Bullet (www.rustbullet.com). The information on their web site is very compelling and the prep work is much less that POR. Has anyone had some experience with this product and if so what do you think?
Thanks, Mike

never heard of it, but I've given por 15 ever opportunity to impress me and it has yet to do so. If this new product doesn't work out for you, use Kooreless (sp?) I painted my kids basketball pole with it four years ago with no top coating and have yet to have any rust break through. I spent hours prepping the firewall on my 72, sand blasting, using their surface prep, etc.. etc.. coating it with por, covering it with their chassis black... lasted less than 4 minutes after spilling brake fluid on it. Used the rest of the can on some lawn and garden stuff; and the rear hitch on our burb. Just smacking it with a rock knocks the por off, bend a hoe head and the stuff splits and peels, finally redid the hitch with kooreless and rustoleum after the por failed. Over priced, worthless, difficult to apply junk in my opinion.

Originally posted by Professor_SS:
Over priced, worthless, difficult to apply junk in my opinion.My thoughts excatly...Eric

P.S still not a believer in the cure-all paints :rolleyes: be it POR or whatever else is outthere. Proper prep and application of paint products will outlast those COVER UP products

gotta throw my two cents in here Blackjack roofing cement(tar) fights rust well LOL graemlins/thumbsup.gif

gotta throw my two cents in here Blackjack roofing cement(tar) fights rust well LOL HAHA, I've used the stuff for years on various automobile projects, sure seals up some tough areas. Self healing too! :D Honestly, it does have it's applications, use it under wheel opening mouldings or anywhere you don't want water etc. to be. Run a bead of it inside your doors along the lower seam and make sure your drain holes are open and it will help preserve your doors. The stuff never dries out and the oils in it do wick into nooks and crannies when subjected to the hot summer sun. I bet it could be a fire hazard when used wrong though. smile.gif

I hate getting reply but no answer. But to your question rust bullet sells on ebay alot i tried it a couple months back its ok but it does not give you that almost power coat smooth finish as POR-15 does. Also the stuff can chip off also unlike POR-15 your frame will have twisting in it from driving strees and Rust Bullet is strong but is not durable like POR-15. So my thing i say to you go with POR-15 you will spend alittle more but its worth it.

That's "Corroless". Go on Google and just enter "Corroless" in the search string. I've used it. It's good. They use it on off shore oil rigs to stop rust. Eastwoods used to sell it but now they sell their own "rust encapsulator". Might just be private branding of the same stuff. www.eastwoodco.com (http://www.eastwoodco.com)

The first item on their site is "Rust Treatments". Also, they havge a write-up on a comparison with POR-15.

Good Luck

I have a small can of the Bullet coming, I want to compare it to POR and eastwoods stuff. They seem to have pretty good evidence that their stuff is even tougher than POR and easier to use, requireing no prep other than brushing off loose scale and dust. Their site has links to apparently independant testing of many rustfighters, including POR and theirs is the best in sealing and abrasion resistance.

If it lives up to its claims, sounds like it will be the winner.

Oops double post

whack anything with por on it and it will chip... been there and done that.... coat the inside of a door skin with it and hammer/dolly the edge over, the por will chip/crack and flake off.... been there done that...

Originally posted by Chevyboy:
I hate getting reply but no answer. But to your question rust bullet sells on ebay alot i tried it a couple months back its ok but it does not give you that almost power coat smooth finish as POR-15 does. Also the stuff can chip off also unlike POR-15 your frame will have twisting in it from driving strees and Rust Bullet is strong but is not durable like POR-15. So my thing i say to you go with POR-15 you will spend alittle more but its worth it.

Just wondering if you guys have had problems when just applying POR-15, or using the whole process they recomend, cleaning off loose rust, cleaning/degreasing, then etching, then applying Por-15?


I havent used rust bullet but would like to know how it compares

BusDriver: Once you have used this Rust Bullet product please put your findings on this site and thanks.
Mike

I've had good luck with POR 15 and Corroless, but on occasion, either one will have a bad day. I work in a marine environment, with salt water. We use marine specific coatings most of the time, but on occasion, the boss is willing to try out something new. Someone gave us a couple of cans of the Rust Bullet. Tough stuff, seems to work ok, when you follow proper prep procedures. We just had one of our big boats in the yard in April, for a repaint. The shipyard paint job is already rusting, even though they spent a couple of weeks prepping and priming. Most prep work was needle-gun work, and then a sanding disc on a die grinder. Then an Ospho wash, then marine grade primer, then marine grade paint. Like I said, 2 months later, signs of rust are evident. At the same time, the boss painted some POR 15 onto some steel stubs we welded to the deck, to support an aluminum railing. He used the silver, and hasn't painted it yet, but it's holding up, no sign of rust whatsoever. He's pretty much sold on it for those out of sight repairs. With the Corroless, I used it on a steel sea chest in one of the engine rooms on the boat a couple of years ago, topped off with Rustoleum. Now, it's all flaking off. It seems that it just scaled the top of the leftover surface rust after cleaning, and it somehow separated. Not too happy with that myself. I have used it in the past with success, though. Like I said earlier, sometimes they will work out great, other times, gotta try something different.

I've used the por15 stuff with good results.The prep is critical.It's on my frame of my Elky now and all the suspension parts.

graemlins/waving.gif
Rick

I've had nothing but success with Por 15. I cannot offer an explanation as to why some people have problems with Por 15. It has worked as advertised for me. I'm doing the floor pans in my car right now with Silver Por. So far, the results have been fantastic! The same holds true for the battery tray I coated with Por 15 SIX YEARS AGO! It's been exposed to battery acid and anti-freeze spills and still looks as good as it did the day I painted it. The only thing I can think of is, there might be a problem with the way the Metal Ready is used. I've read that some of you guys use Metal Ready on everything. According to the local Por rep I spoke with, you only need to use Metal Ready on sheetmetal that's smooth and shiny. If you're using Por on cast iron or other porous metals such as an aluminum intake, then you only need to clean it with a good degreaser. Also, if the part you're painting has been sandblasted, you don't need to use the Metal Ready product. And last, after cleaning your part, you must rinse it thoroughly and allow it to dry completely. This is true regardless of which paint you use.

Going to use my car as a guinea pig for Rust Bullet. Removed the vinyl top and am in the process of patching the holes and missing sheet metal. After all the welding is done, I'm gonna RustBullet the entire roof. The rest of the paint is good and the interior is completely stripped out right now so no hidden rust issues. The roof is sanded and wire-wheeled to the bare metal. Very little rust actually remains. I'm not replacing the vinyl top and it'll be next spring before it gets paint so, we'll see. The way I figure it, if it doesn't work, I'll just sandblast it off and start over. I'll only be out $35. I'll post an update and some before/after pics after it's applied.