I don't want to see my car go up in smoke (or me with it) should the fuel line rupture and it has been pointed out to me that my fuel line routing probably isn't the safest, see the pic.

I'm not sure I like the way the rubber hose on the fuel line sits on the valve cover and intake and loops around in front. Don't like the glass fuel filter either, was told they could crack and leak. This setup was done by the previous owner, I wondered about it at first then didn't pay it any attention. I think it's time I fix that.

What would be the best way to re-route this? I have an electric fuel pump mounted on the outside frame rail near the gas tank, the line runs from the back of the car, up the firewall and feeds a fuel line running over the top of the distributor. I think you can barely see it in the pic.

I was thinking of getting this steel dual inlet feed line from Summit with a built in filter and pressure gauge and this can be setup for rear fuel line entry so I won't need to have a bend in the fuel line at the front of the block. Front entry seems unnecessary since I don't have a mechanical fuel pump and have a block off plate installed. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku I know I would have to get a couple of inlet fittings to adapt this to a Demon carb.

I don't really like stainless steel braided hose or anodized fittings, so would prefer to have chrome, steel or rubber lines for a more traditional look since this car is not raced.

Here's another pic. If anyone can tell me or show me a better way I'd appreciate it.

I once ran a fuel line to the rear of the engine and then used rubber fuel line down to the frame where it connected to the steel fuel line and had no problems. I also installed a fuel filter at the gas tank where it was out of sight.

could you turn your dual inlet pipe around and have it pointing out the back

could you turn your dual inlet pipe around and have it pointing out the back

That's basically what I'm thinking of doing. Anything wrong with doing that?

Wondering if that is unheard of, unsafe, a no-no, or what.

I once ran a fuel line to the rear of the engine and then used rubber fuel line down to the frame where it connected to the steel fuel line and had no problems. I also installed a fuel filter at the gas tank where it was out of sight.

I know it's difficult to see in the pics (if I was at home I would post better close-ups) but I already have a stainless steel fuel running down the firewall to the frame. So all I would need is to turn around the dual inlet to feed from the rear of the engine and would then just need a short length of rubber hose or stainless steel braided hose to connect the inlet to the fuel line at the firewall.

No, it's not unheard of. No, it's not un safe. Just make sure that the rubber line doesn't rub on anything sharp and that the clamps are easy access.

I had 1/2 fuel line running the length of the car, and the up the firewall, when I was getting the car checked in at the drag strip, they would not allow me to race said the fuel line can not be on or that close to the firewall, for fire concerns. That was stainless steel lines, they said neither rubber or metal are safe.

If you don't like braided and dont want to use rubber, consider using some pushlok hose made by aeroquip. It is black in color and approved by the nhra, if you go to the track. (must have less than 12" of rubber line)

I also agree with your comment about the glass filter, if it cracks and gas leaks you could catch fire.

As far as racing no fuel lines, fittings, block etc. are allowed to be mounted on the firewall in case of clutch or converter failure. But for what you are looking for, what I'm guessing is a driver the steel line you have is able to be turned around and hooked up to the existing line.

Why would you want fuel line going down the rear of the engine--where all the heat from the exhaust is? A recipie for boiling the fuel.

I use double-wall steel tubing down the front of the engine, as if there were a fuel pump there. It's ahead of the exhaust manifolds, so the radiator fan is blowing the heat to the rear, behind the fuel tubing. (sure, some radiates forward, and the radiator air itself is warm--but nothing like near the rear of the engine!)

Use only enough rubber hose to connect to the metal tubes on the frame rail--to account for engine rock on the rubber motor mounts. Steel tubing back to the rear of the car, and then just enough rubber to connect to the fuel pump and gas tank.

NHRA says 12" of rubber? Easy to do. You won't need that much!

Double-flare junctions for the metal tubing is preferred. I have used brass ferrule compression fittings on some applications, and with great success.

must have less than 12" of rubber line
Does that include the Aeroquip line?

Id run it down the front of the motor out of the belts path, and through the frame. Ive never run it along the firewall but if I did Id worry about a fuel leak running down it and dripping on the headers.

I've seen guys run the fuel line to the rear. I was under the impression that it was to achieve a cleaner look. You can turn the existing fuel line over if this is the way you want. The fuel inlets at the carb are basically identical so they won't "care" if your line runs to the rear.

I think the points about NHRA compliance, header heat and clutch failure are good ones. I wonder how the OEMs run their lines on fuel injected cars today, they are usually plastic lines today and the electric pump is always in the rear.

I'd be inclined to extend the fuel line forward, and run a piece of line up the front of the motor and connect to the line you have. I've seen lot's of glass filters like this and they are away from the exhaust heat this way. But I still wouldn't run one in the engine compartment. If you decide to go this route, use a piece of hard line down the front of the engine. Connect with a very short piece of rubber to your existing carb fuel line and a little longer piece to the frame rail. Aluminum is easy to work with. A piece of steel line is easier to get, but a little harder to bend.

BTW, the big problem with your glass filter and an electric fuel pump is if it breaks. With a mechanical fuel pump, if the filter breaks the engine will quit in short order and fuel delivery will stop. But with the electric, the fuel pump will continue to run and deliver fuel everywhere even after the engine quits (unless you have an oil pressure interconnect). Good idea to change it, especially with it vibrating against the V/C.

Try doing a search on fuel line routing. On some of the newer cars the fuel lines are routed through the trans tunnel to the back of the motor since they have their fuel pumps in the tank.

I've seen guys run the fuel line to the rear. I was under the impression that it was to achieve a cleaner look. You can turn the existing fuel line over if this is the way you want. The fuel inlets at the carb are basically identical so they won't "care" if your line runs to the rear.

I think the points about NHRA compliance, header heat and clutch failure are good ones. I wonder how the OEMs run their lines on fuel injected cars today, they are usually plastic lines today and the electric pump is always in the rear.

I'd be inclined to extend the fuel line forward, and run a piece of line up the front of the motor and connect to the line you have. I've seen lot's of glass filters like this and they are away from the exhaust heat this way. But I still wouldn't run one in the engine compartment. If you decide to go this route, use a piece of hard line down the front of the engine. Connect with a very short piece of rubber to your existing carb fuel line and a little longer piece to the frame rail. Aluminum is easy to work with. A piece of steel line is easier to get, but a little harder to bend.

BTW, the big problem with your glass filter and an electric fuel pump is if it breaks. With a mechanical fuel pump, if the filter breaks the engine will quit in short order and fuel delivery will stop. But with the electric, the fuel pump will continue to run and deliver fuel everywhere even after the engine quits (unless you have an oil pressure interconnect). Good idea to change it, especially with it vibrating against the V/C.

Yeah, my thought was to run the fuel line to the rear for a cleaner look, but I don't know how guys are routing fuel lines from electric pumps, and if this isn't safe as noted, I probably shouldn't do it. This is a street driven car only, never going to be raced so NHRA rules don't mean anything to me, but safe is safe.

I guess it's best just to route it down the front of the block and on the passenger side frame rail as they do with the mechancial fuel pumps.

Try doing a search on fuel line routing. On some of the newer cars the fuel lines are routed through the trans tunnel to the back of the motor since they have their fuel pumps in the tank.

I tried that, not much there. What is there is mostly dead links and no pictures.

Guys doing the LT1 swaps are re routing their lines because the fuel rails are at the back. When I did the swap I re routed along the drivers side frame rail and up in front of the fire wall by the power booster and over to the fuel rails. At no point am I attached to the fire wall and not even close to the exhaust. the only place I have rubber lines is 2" before and after the fuel pump which is frame mounted and same on fuel filter which is mounted by fuel tank. I think you could get some good info from the impala guys on this.

" I usually just follow the frame rails to the front and come up at the firewall. Without seeing the car, if I follow what you are saying about routing by the water pump, I would stay away from the engine block because of the heat. I use Adel clamps the mount fuel lines, they are sometime just called loop clamps.Basically the clamp is a piece of thinner metal that loops around the line and has a hole in it to bolt it down, they are usually rubber coated as well to resist chafing" From dragstuff.com