I'm still trying to recover from buying the Fat Man spindle awhile back. First the bumpsteer had to be corrected with the ATS arm. And now I'm running into ball joint bind cause I got the Fat Man normat control arms. So I put on a set of Global West uppper control arms for the tall spindle which is supposed to be shorted for the new ball joint angle. Well the angles looks good but without any shims in there the wheel is tilted in a bit. Don't know if its too much or not. It drives alright.

What's the spec supposed to be in this? Can I eyeball it or do I have to take it to a alignment shop. Hope I didn't get the wrong arm, it cost alot more than I wanted to spend, considering I'm on my second set of tubulars.

Any advise?

Corey

No, you really shouldn't eyeball it, have an alignment shop do it. Even a setting off by just a little can lead to rapid tire wear and/or undesireable handling characteristics.

I guess I'm worried that if it's too far in, there's not much I can do about it because there's no more shim left.

Actually the handling is much improved over 0 degrees camber or actually tilted out like it was before.

Handling is better with it tilted in on top (Negative Camber). For a street-car, about 0.5* Neg. Camber is all you need with about 5.0* Pos. Caster, and 0.125" toe-in.

Handling is better with it tilted in on top (Negative Camber). For a street-car, about 0.5* Neg. Camber is all you need with about 5.0* Pos. Caster, and 0.125" toe-in.

Yikes! That's a lotta toe in and it will probably show up in tire wear. As you increase negative camber, there is an increasing inward thrust compoment as a result of the camber and thus you need less toe-in since the camber itself is providing the inward force. From 0 to -0.5 camber I'd say about 1/16 - 3/32" total toe is good, from -0.5 to -1.25 degree of negative camber I would suggest no more than 1/16" total toe in (the closer to zero the better), and with any negative camber greater than -1.25 degrees I'd say you should be running a little bit of toe-out to conteract the inward thrust of the negative camber.

Unfortunately, if you are not able to achieve the proper alignment settings with your new arms you're looking at new arms again... this time may I suggest SPC adjustables.

You're right, I was thinking more as a temporary "get it close" type of alignment, and that should have read less than .125" just so he can drive it to the alignment shop.

I should have been more clear on that :clonk:

OR, how about tweaking the frame just a schosh??

I know our First Gen. Camaro cars subframes become spread over time and abuse...

pdq67