How hard is it to replace floor pans? Does it require removing the body usually? Where is a good place to find replacements?

It dosen't require you to remove the frame unless the rust is ixtensive like completely rotted out. You can aquire floors for any after market parts house. ck with goodmark industries to see what they have. I just looked they do have them. www.goodmarkindustries.com. (http://www.goodmarkindustries.com.) That guy sells good stuff for aftermarket.

it don't get much more "How To" than this!!! http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref6.html

I had lots of rot so I welded in new full length floor pans. I set the new pans in place and used cheap chrome spray paint to outline them on the existing floor. I then cut out the old pans 1/2" inside the paint line. I welded the new ones in on the top side and later after removing the body and mounting it on my rotisserie I welded the bottom as well. I bought the new floorpans from Browns of Two Rivers WI and was happy with them. There are pictures of this on my website. J.C.

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http://home.centurytel.net/jcsmiths_65_chevelle/

Just watch out for the floor braces that run across the width of the car and are spotwelded to the bottom of the pans. If you plan to replace only a section or two of floor, then you must take care not to cut through the braces. If you replace the entire floor however, then you can order new braces and replace them when you replace the floors.

Also, as I discovered just this afternoon, a die grinder with a cut-off wheel makes this very easy work. You do have to be careful of what is underneath the area where you're cutting. The frame runs very close to the floors in some areas. A good spot weld cutting tool is a must, too. And a good air compressor.

Thanks for the great response, you have no idea how helpful all this info is.

I outlined where the braces are by drilling a 1/16" hole in the floorpan from underneath the car at the edge of the brace. I only drilled as many holes as necessary to get a good idea of the outline. Then I used a Sharpie to "connect the dots" on the interior side of the pan. Oh, yeah, I only drilled the metal I was going to replace....

Like Randy, I used a cutoff wheel to grind the spot welds. You'll be able to tell when you're just about through the spot weld because the rusty metal surrounding it on the brace will show through. Just take it slow and work your way around each weld to avoid too much heat buildup in any one spot.

The inside of the brace is probably going to be full of dirt and rust, so take some extra time to clean it up with a wire brush and paint it to inhibit future rust.