Is this fixable
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Is it your 66,not that bad if thats it.Some donor cars at johnsmusclecarparts.com then go walk the yard.

yes it is my car

Know they have your car,been trying to get ahold of them for some stuff.Haven't had them to cut anything like your problem.But from seeing it there probally going to to tell you there going to cut from the floor seam all the way up to atleast a foot of the hood.Probally expensive.

Looks like the typical rear shelf and back glass rust to me. Regardless, the piece from the rear shelf to the trunk is available for most models. The rust in the corners and up the sail can be replaced with a full quarter, or patched in with metal. I've done this a couple of times now, take a look at my web site for my 70 as I just posted some pictures of a corner repair. I don't see why you couldn't cut and paste metal into the A pillar. Be careful not to warp the area while welding. I don't know of anyone that is reproducing cowl parts for these cars but in general, just about everything else accept the roof is available for the chevelle. A few guys are finding junk yards out west that will cut out sections from donor cars also. A kid that used to be on here, clark68, was able to find a piece for the top of his cowl from the air intake up to the dash from a guy out west. Do a web search for junk yards in New Mexico or Arizona.

The lower windshield channel and dash top sections are being reproduced. Two seperate pieces. As for the A pillar, it looks patchable to me.

Just por-15 up and fiberglass it over,primer,& Paint problem fixed

The repairs needed require a HIGH level of skill in fabrication, welding and fitting multiple components.
REALITY CHECK-
Chevyboy option- Crude, incomplete approach.

Lower windshield filler, has to fit to cowl grille, w/s pillar caps, provide a mounting surface for windshield, windshield moulding, upper metal dash panel, and seal out H20.

Windshield pillar caps, have to fit to upper door frames, w/s mouldings, lower w/s filler, cowl grille, fenders and hood.

Based on the photos, this repair can be done properly, and permanently with the following:
Repro filler, donor pillar caps, donor upper (metal) dash panel, and perhaps donor sections of inner w/s pillars.

Also needed: Skilled welder and fabricator. Lots of patience and metal working tools.

FINALLY: Carefull attention to ALL fits of ALL components.

Not trying to be negative, this can work out very well, however, don't underestimate the difficulty of this problem.

Good Luck,

Karl

just a little addemdum to Karl advice.

fit fit fit . Plan your attack on . This is a Do able fix..
1. Measue out your window molding stud/clip location

2 cut and fit tac in lowere filler strip. put in window block spacers and lay windshild in place
checking for even spacing around the opening


3. Side post, are a roll your own. Bend a peice of 20 ga steel to fit the conture if the side posts.. then cut to fit the rusted area and BUZZ it in..

FIt FIt FIT...Tac weld and trial fit again..

Geez Wayne, with my four (4) FITS, your ten (10)
FITS, plus your "measure" "checking" "trial fit"
we might scare him off. ;)

Seriously, I agree with your additional comments.

Keith, when we are talking about trial fits and fitting, that includes all front sheetmetal doors, windshield, windshield mouldings, and cowl grille.
When mine was done we used the repro outer filler and a donor upper dash, roof and front pillars. (mine is an ElCamino) upper windshield area was real bad.
Filler panel welds to both upper dash and firewall.
As Wayne said, be very carefull to note all clip locations.
We tried to keep as mutch of the original rusted parts intact during removeal. Was handy later for reference.

Be sure to mock everything up and tack or screw in place (as stated).

Attach and fit all front sheetmetal, windshield pillar caps, and cowl grille.

It is a pain but, you will be thankful when the job is done and it looks great.

The original filler panel was compression spot welded in place, bedded in caulking. All components were bare metal, the caulk was water base, little consideration was given to corrosion.

Caulking is very difficult under the new filler.

Good Luck, Email me with questions if you like.

Karl