Hey gang,

After the carnage, I have been looking into options on my next trans.
I have contacted Steve Oldani about what he can suggest.

Also have been rounding up sources for rebuildable TH400's.

I've found several.

Question......okay questions.

Are any years preferable?
I know the TH400 needs an improved 2nd gear sprag. But do some models need a drum to go with it?

My trans actualy came from a truck with a bolt on yoke. So I had to have the splines in my yoke cut a bit to allow it to fit. The internal shaft is different.

Do all short shaft truck trans use the bolt on yoke? (I don't think so)
Any reason to think a truck trans has better internals?

I built my trans my own bad self 10 years ago when it was in my Chevelle....yes I had a Chevelle...several of them. When I put it in the Nova, I had issues with high gear dragging the clutches while in low gear. I fixed that by going to a TransGo-3 shift kit and it worked flawlessly after that.

The trans didn't fail here BTW....the broken u-joint broke the tailshaft off the case.

Just looking for advice, I would like to investigate doing the next one myself, but will defer to the experts if need be, especially if it gains a bit of performance.

FYI....when mine broke, it also broke the front of the case, right through the inlet and outlet to the cooler. So it couldn't pump crap through the converter. There was no metal in the fluid. I'll still send the conv back to ATI for a look and a stall adj......

Ron

There is a transmission "recycleing" yard in St. Louis County, Missouri, that will sell you a TH400, short tailshaft, large diameter output, BOP for $18. The name is Kaiser, their phone number is (314) 739-9739. I bought 4 about 10 years ago, enough to fill Chevy cases for my lifetime. They probably still have some left. When I had my transbrake built, I had to find my own core as the builder couldn't find one at that time. Cost me $150. I scrounged around and found a couple more Chevy cases, one was a TH375, small tailshaft. Also enough to last the rest of my life. One had a broken shift lever boss (?) that was easily welded.

The Kaiser people pick up transmissions from about a five state area, separate the aluminum from the steel, and haul the stuff to the scrap yard. At the time I bought, they got about $18 dollars scrap value for a BOP. They put the Chevy cases aside because they are worth something. I guess everybody knows you can cut off the front off a BOP and bolt a Dedenbear/Chevy bellhousing to it. And it's a scattershield.

In case you don't know, avoid the 1967 case. They changed the metel spec that year and it didn't work out, not as strong. Guys on this forum can tell you the desirable 'series numbers', the transmissions with the most clutches. I don't have them. After market parts are more expensive, but of much better quality. I am not an automatic transmission expert, but unless you are making a LOT of HP, stock parts work very well. No need for Kevlar clutches. You should go with the HD sprags. If they cost more than $35, you need to find a better source. I've seen the 34 element for as high as $100. Don't pay that much for one. When you buy transmission parts, you really need to know what you want and who you are dealing with. The 34 element sprag is a run-of-the-mill rebuilder piece that does not cammand a high price except to the unknowing.

The stock clutch drums will work well until they explode. Then it's new X-mission time. The after market drums are much stronger, lighter, won't probably come through the floorboard when they break, and are much more expensive. Plan on putting the price of a blow blanket in your build money. It is a must have. You might be able to duck the pieces coming thru the floor, but that hot oil is a SOB. Don't put one in a high powered car without a blanket. (You don't know what fun is till your transmission blows, locks up the wheels, and spills 15 quarts of oil under your slicks. Makes you think about going manual shift.)

Also, the transbrake is a VERY specialized transmission. There is no engine braking with one. All shifts are full pressure shifts, which aren't violent with a high stall convertor at lower RPM. A lot of parts are left out of a TB. Holes need to be drilled in the front drum to make sure the clutches release quickly and don't drag, and the snap rings need to be tack welded in so they don't blow out from the violent application of pressure when the brake is released. I have a Turbo Action Cheetah brake and the TA Shifter, on which I like the cable and detents. I didn't think it was worth the money, but it works well. It is reverse pattern with positive stop gates and connections for neutral safety and nitrous switches. I just looked on the web and Biondo wants $289 for this shifter. Wow!

Actually there is not that much to installing a brake. First, use Teflon rings on the center support and pump. I also recommend an add-on support for the intermediate pressure plate. Use a TH350 drum bearing and a selective shim to set rear geartrain endplay. Make sure to use a good reaction carrier or machine the surface on yours if worn. Then check rear servo pin length and correct as necessary by grinding to proper dimension. Use HD springs in the direct clutch piston setup, and drill a bleed hole in the direct drum near the outer edge at the bottom, staying away from the side where piston seal travel reaches. Use a good brake. I like the Hipster brake for the dollar value myself, and they work well. Use a 34 element sprag on an early drum, or a later 4L drum setup. A Spiroloc will swap out with no work needed to retain the sprag. No welding required. Dual orings on the filter pickup tube at the case end. No need to use a Torrington up front behind the pump since there is not really much thrust there. This is because the geartrain is behind the center support. Anyhow... that is about it. I'll try to get those facts and figures out to you tonight... been a zoo around here the last few days but hopefully things are settling down a tad, thanks.

Funny you should bring this up. I have a decent '79 T400 on the shelf as a spare here. At some point, I would like to get it apart and done, very nice to have a spare.

What do they say about a man with a spare?

Anyway, I do not wish to have a trans brake in this car.

I built my last trans myself. I used a TransGo-3 shift kit, and added the 34 element sprag. I believe I also drilled the drums for oil escape. I can't remember which drum it was, but I believe it was the high gear one.
And if I remember right, the front drum get's stronger springs as well.

I also repalced all of the clutches and seals. Other than the mess, it was actually not hard to do.

I've done 3 of them.

Anyway, great point about it not mattering if I find one with the BOP housing, I would love to use the Ultrabell.

Those bolt on where the front pump goes, right? Has that proven to be reliable and leak free?

How hard is it to do?

One last thing, I am required to run a blanket and flexplate shield.

The trans broke because I lost the front u-joint on the launch and it took out the back of the trans.

Ron

It's not hard to install an Ultra-Bell. You can even do it with a Sawzall and not have problems getting it done that way. Just take your time... it's easier to cut more off than it is to take too much and wipe out a case, lol.

Thanks Steve.
I can get access to a band saw.
I really don't want to mess with the CSR sheild ever again.

So, the ultra bell is good for 5 years.
I wonder if one can get re-stickered after that?

Do let me know what you come up with . I'm in no hurry and for sure understand BUSY at work.

Ron

Yes, they need to be sent back to JW for a recert. I can get a small discount on that for anyone who needs JW stuff recertified, just contact me.

I haggle-sawed the front off one of my BOP cases and then trued everything up in a lathe. Looked pretty nice afterwards.

Steve Oldani: I put a shoulder on an old 400 pump the diameter of the hole in my Chevy scattershield bellhousing. If the pump passages were altered just slightly, your wouldn't break through into the passages and you could put a stick shift housing on the 400, much like the Ultrabell. I didn't check any of the length dimemsions after I ran into the pump passages, just wanted to see if it could be done with what I had. If you opened up the bore in the bellhousing, it might work. Just a thought. Hate to see that old Ansen hydro-formed housing collecting dust. I think it was $79 when I bought it new. (I'm still looking for a set of old Ansen forged five slot wheels that will fit a '68 Camaro. I think I would cut up the back end of the car just to make a set of them fit.)

I haggle-sawed the front off one of my BOP cases and then trued everything up in a lathe. Looked pretty nice afterwards.

Steve Oldani: I put a shoulder on an old 400 pump the diameter of the hole in my Chevy scattershield bellhousing. If the pump passages were altered just slightly, your wouldn't break through into the passages and you could put a stick shift housing on the 400, much like the Ultrabell. I didn't check any of the length dimemsions after I ran into the pump passages, just wanted to see if it could be done with what I had. If you opened up the bore in the bellhousing, it might work. Just a thought. Hate to see that old Ansen hydro-formed housing collecting dust. I think it was $79 when I bought it new. (I'm still looking for a set of old Ansen forged five slot wheels that will fit a '68 Camaro. I think I would cut up the back end of the car just to make a set of them fit.)


do you have a picture of the rims your looking for, I have a set of old slots stored in my parents shed that came off a 67 camaro I bought about 25 years ago. I was getting ready to list them on ebay. If they are what you sre looking for maybe we can make a deal/ possible trade or something

Not sure who, I think ARE, fired up the furnace for 5 slots again.