I've got a rear window leak. 67 chevelle. Enough to cause water some water dripping in the trunk. I have to pull the rear window an re-seal. (I think - unless there is a trick to this)

Anyway - I checked all the tech series, read all the threads and still have some questions.

I checked Year One and OPG and could not find the window seal?

I guess I will buy the 'tool' with the wood handles and the wire to cut the seal

I have the trim / clip remover already

I guess my real question is does anyone have the exact steps to re-installing the window, sealing it correctly? And where to get the best window seal so it doesn't leak agan? I know I can get it out out but never put one in before. 2 Guys, each side, lay it in carefully? Is the seal soft rubber?

The guy I bought the car from had the window out and it leaks so I know this is not a simple thing.

Sorry for the long message - looking for direction.....Any help is appreciated.

Mike

Usually that means that you have rust, rotted through, in the corner and that is why it is leaking into the trunk. That was common for those cars and it happende to mine also. That is the reason why inner wheel wells rotted. Sorry about the bad news, but that is what is common.

Here's the Basic of Basic link by Martinsr. There is a section called window setting.
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=74560

If you didnt want to do the work yourself, most local autoglass companies will charge @50 to do it. But if you get the seals you can do it yourself after cleaning the areas, patching the metal if need be and re painting the window seal surface without much problem.

This would be a worst case.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/keltieanne/67SSrear2.jpg

and this is the best case.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/keltieanne/Rearbelt4.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y260/keltieanne/Rearbelt6.jpg

Thanks, the Martin SR explanation is great. Still have to find where to get the tape, but I'll search.

Don't have a big rust problem, previous owner fixed all that. This is just the water leaks inside the window from the poor seal at the top, runs down the inside of the glass, drips on the top of the rear seat and some runs along the inside of the bottom window channel to both sides, then a small drip on each side.

But when the window is out, I'll make sure everything is cool.

Thanks again.

There isn't a special seal sold for your window, what you buy is a roll of buytl tape from the parts store. It's a sticky tar rope that you stick to your window channel and then set the window on it. It's real easy. the professionals now use a caulking gun to lay down a thick bead of basically the same thing, set the glass, and then it hardens up and holds it. On trick you will need to know is that you have to prop the glass up from the bottom of the channel with a couple little rubber blocks that are included with the buytl tape to keep the window from sliding down in the track from gravity.

I got our local glass "pro" to remove the back glass and while I cleaned it up he prepped the hole to put it back in.He used a tube of "butyl" and primed the window before putting it back in.The entire job was $80.00.FYI!!

Very cheap to have it done. I think I want to try it myself over the winter, and if I mess up, I can always have it done by a pro in the spring.

I think I found the tape I need, includes the blocks. Another thread mentioned this brand and the 5/16 size.

http://www.levineautoparts.com/3mwirorise5i.html

Thats the one. But of course remember you will have some rust repair to do as well. Don't be shocked when you pull the window out and see rust.

Brian

The butyl tape kit is called 3M windo weld ribbon. Go to their web site and read about the correct primer. It comes in a little bottle, enough for a couple windshields.
Here is a tip I learned from a magazine on instaling windshields with butyl tape. After you lay the tape all around the perimeter of your frame, take a calking gun with 3M window urethane and squeeze some against the tape all around the outside of the tape. Then paddle it against the tape with something like a popsicle stick. This is insurance against a poor seal of the tape against the metal frame. YOu cannot inject the urethane calking against the butyl tape once the glass is in place, not enough room to get the tip of the gun in there.
I would recommend this insurance because I got a leak on my rear glass after I installed it with butyl tape only. So it has to come out again, and I will use the calk along with it.
Using the calk alone works, without the tape, but with our classics if you push down on the glass too hard, it squeezes out everywhere and is messy. The tape gets you the right position of the glass away from the frame so your stainless trim sits nice. 5|16 tape is correct size for most classics.