When the dots are "touching" (cam at 6, crank at 12) where should the distributor be pointing and what cylinder should be firing.

When the dots are both at 12 what cylinder should be firing?


My buddys camaro is off somehow, when we watch the valves open and close to find out the compression stroke on #1, the distributor is pointing to #6 and will only run this way. This is soley by watching the valves. I need clear info, something seems off but I can't elaborate unless i can confirm..

6 and 12 should be at number one on the dist.

6 and 12 should be at number one on the dist.
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Not correct :)
Dots at 6 & 12 the #6 cylinder is on compression, #1 is on overlap
Distributor will be pointing at #6 with the dots together & at #1 when they are both at 12 oclock

Assuming a SBC or BBC with standard firing order ( 18436572 ), the answer to your first question is cylinder 6

Cylinder 1 is the answer for your second question.

If your strugling getting the distibuter in right try this.

1. Take the distributor out.
2. Take #1 plug out
3. Place thumb or finger over #1 plug hole.
4. Bumb engine around until you feel the pressure push your thumb off of the hole.
5. Look at timing tab and bump the engine slightly until it points around 30*
6 Put distributor back in hole with the rotor pointing where you want it.
7. Bump engine around until it fall onto the oil pump shaft.
8. Repeat steps 3-6
9. Align rotor with the terminal you want to use as #1 on the cap.
10. Snug the distributor
11. Put #1 plug back in.
12. Put all other wires onto the plugs if they were off.
13. Fire it up
14. Tweak the timing to where you want it.

Scott

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Not correct :)
Dots at 6 & 12 the #6 cylinder is on compression, #1 is on overlap
Distributor will be pointing at #6 with the dots together & at #1 when they are both at 12 oclock

You are correct. I was having a brain fart when I read his post.:)

Ok assuming this is all correct, the motor is a TPI 350, all the sensors are reading perfect (he got the software to read them). But the car still runs like ****, and im talking won't idle, no power, rev's freely in nuetral, pops throw the exhaust when reving, but not when you let off.

WTF could be wrong? lol, at this point we really can't figure it out, its getting fuel and spark, nothing else changed. We were hoping the cam was off a tooth or something but it appears everything is in check, so what else could it be?

Ok assuming this is all correct, the motor is a TPI 350, all the sensors are reading perfect (he got the software to read them). But the car still runs like ****, and im talking won't idle, no power, rev's freely in nuetral, pops throw the exhaust when reving, but not when you let off.

WTF could be wrong? lol, at this point we really can't figure it out, its getting fuel and spark, nothing else changed. We were hoping the cam was off a tooth or something but it appears everything is in check, so what else could it be?
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About a zillion things :D
Have you started with the basics, compression, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, fuel pressure etc?
Next, broken valve spring, flat lobe, rockers all seem ok?

All rockers are ok, all pushrods spinning, rockers are perfectly lashed, nothing has been done to affect fuel pressure from before. Heads and cam were swapped and the swap does not require bigger injectors, stock injectors were clean before reinstallation too.

Brand new plugs, brand new plug wires. Same distributor. Same coil. Cap is fine, no cracks, all contacts are clean. The distributor looks a bit worn but nothing was touched on it from before the swap to after so why would it act up all of a sudden, we are rulling that out.

Valve springs everything in the valvetrain is fine, its a roller cam so no lobes are flat, compression is fine, the old heads had leaking valve seals but the new heads solved that, no smoke in the exhaust, everything sealed up fine.

Keep the suggestions coming, we are literally 2 months into trying to figure this problem out and my buddy is without a car this whole time (its his daily driver) :(

leak down test? Could have a valve or two that arent sealing correctly?

i think thats our only option now. All the plugs look great, all cylinders are firing. I can't imagine there being an issue now with these brand new heads but I think thats the only thing we can do at this point.

You may need to reset the IAC and double check the TPS voltage. Should be around .54. I know its not cam related, but once you "get the timing right" you should check this. Also, if its an aftermarket cam you may need a reflash on your chip.

Like Wolfplace said I would check the basics. I would start with the timing. Make sure the firing order is correct and none of the wires are arcing. Make sure initial timing is correct and that it's advancing when you rev it up. Have you put a timing light on it?

your are forgetting that the crank turns twice the cam speed. you may be correct now but one crankshaft turn again and #1 is on compression.


=Wolfplace;1077929]=
Not correct :)
Dots at 6 & 12 the #6 cylinder is on compression, #1 is on overlap
Distributor will be pointing at #6 with the dots together & at #1 when they are both at 12 oclock[/QUOTE]

your are forgetting that the crank turns twice the cam speed. you may be correct now but one crankshaft turn again and #1 is on compression.


=Wolfplace;1077929]=
Not correct :)
Dots at 6 & 12 the #6 cylinder is on compression, #1 is on overlap
Distributor will be pointing at #6 with the dots together & at #1 when they are both at 12 oclock
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Since you quoted me I assume you are replying to what I said?
So what is it I am forgetting??
If you are dot to dot & turn the crank 1 revolution & the cam turns a half revolution,,,,
Where do you suppose the dot on the cam is going to be :sad:

rockers are perfectly lashed

No one ever seems to mention this :rolleyes: , when you lashed the rockers, did you use the jiggle push rods up and down until they don't move, or the spin them until they stop spinning method. If you did thew second way, you could have overtightened a couple. Ask me how I know.:clonk:

If I had a nickle for every time I THOUGHT the cap and rotor was fine....

Replace them!

I did this a few weeks ago on my g'friend's son's 91 GMC Jimmy....
Ran like you were describing.... we did plugs and wires, cap and rotor looked good so we replaced the coil.... yada yada...
Finally changed the cap and rotor and now it runs like a top!

ill check into that, its cheap enough to replace those without having it not fix the problem and kicking yourself for wasting hte money lol

No one ever seems to mention this :rolleyes: , when you lashed the rockers, did you use the jiggle push rods up and down until they don't move, or the spin them until they stop spinning method. If you did thew second way, you could have overtightened a couple. Ask me how I know.:clonk:

beleive me, this is how we know they are perfect, my first thought was overtightened rockers, (i managed to break one and and bend 4 on my car months after the cam install where i overtightened them, must have bent them initially and they wore out over time), so we went by the book and lashed them perfectly, this isn't an issue.