I need some advice here. I am in the process of doing a restore on my 65 chevelle. I have most everything off from the car. Yesterday I removed the front and back window. The front channel is ok but the back one is in bad shape. The previous "little old lady" owner had someone bondo the complete bottom channel. Also there is a lot of rust "some holes" on the sides and up to the corners. I really got discouraged when I seen this. The rest of the body is pretty solid, with the floors being rust free. What is my best repair option? I looked at the trunk filler panels in OPG, Year One, etc. but I’m not sure how far they go up. My first thought was to buy the filler panel and make the rest. What gauge sheet metal would be the best here. I will try to post some pics on Monday with my digital Cam. I have a Mig welder and can weld pretty fair but would like to here some other opinions on this, or others that have done this. Thanks for listening.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 65_Mailbu:
I need some advice here. I am in the process of doing a restore on my 65 chevelle. I have most everything off from the car. Yesterday I removed the front and back window. The front channel is ok but the back one is in bad shape. The previous "little old lady" owner had someone bondo the complete bottom channel. Also there is a lot of rust "some holes" on the sides and up to the corners. I really got discouraged when I seen this. The rest of the body is pretty solid, with the floors being rust free. What is my best repair option? I looked at the trunk filler panels in OPG, Year One, etc. but I’m not sure how far they go up. My first thought was to buy the filler panel and make the rest. What gauge sheet metal would be the best here. I will try to post some pics on Monday with my digital Cam. I have a Mig welder and can weld pretty fair but would like to here some other opinions on this, or others that have done this. Thanks for listening.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I'm in the same boat. My El Camino has a problem similar to your Malibu. I understand that cutting out the rust is the preferred repair. Fortunately for me OPG sells a patch for this area for me because it was a very common problem with El Caminos.

Use POR 15 products to stop the rust and their paste to fill your holes. Save alot of money, time and head aches from changing panels

I plan on using the por15 to stop the rust but I dont think I could fill the holes with the paste. Very large holes between the filler panel and bottom window channel. Does anyone know how far up to the channel the filler panel goes? Thanks for the responses so far. I

The trunk filler panel goes from the bottom including the lower window channel to the trunk wheather seal channel and from seam to seam at where it meets the 1/4 panel.
The repopo panel fill well I got mine from the Muscle Factory in CA. but I assume the stamping is the same sold by all.
I used the replacementpanel from the window channel to 1/2" below /around the trunk weather strip channel.
Not a bad job on an HT and a little harder on a el-Camino because the seam is at the top of the bulk-head and is visible. Where the weather strip channel is not and covered by the spong strip. So it's a weld grind flush and seam seal. thee at the tow side seams and across the rear deck panel.

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Wayne
ACES# 1556
TCG # 186

Thanks WayneK, thats what I was looking for. Am I right in assuming you used the complete panel or did you cut it to fit what was damaged? Also, did you have any major rust in the side channel and up in the top corners? If so, did you fab your own channel.

Yes I used 99% of the repair panel.
I just trimed the trunk cannel to fit.
thre was rust around the lower two corners and one spot on the side.
I bent and a peice of metal at 90.deg and zipped slots on one side and formed the corners. cutting off over lapping peices and welded it in the prepped repair area.

I then use Kitty Hair ( Evercoat) fiberglass filler to rough in the repaired area,then finnish off with you favorite flavor of plastic filler

Those people that have bought the deck filler panel, who did you buy it from. I have checked Yearone, OPG, Ausleys, all have different prices. Are these the same. Also, OPG (I think) has two different ones. A import and USA made. Anyone know the difference? Thanks for all the help...

I bought Mine from the Muscle Factory in CA.
It was bear steel mad in US of A.
Also in my early post , The wheather srip channel has to be saved by drilling out the spot welds. the new panel has the lip but not the chanel. so don't hack it out


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Wayne
ACES# 1556
TCG # 186

I found a panel from Hinshaws Chevelle today. Its on its way. I have uploaded a pic of my channel. Take at look at it and tell me what you think.
http://members.surfbest.net/preece@surfbest.net/

Looks like you will have to manufacture some pieces for the vertical glass opening at upper 1/4 panel. Also appears that the 1/4 from the belt line down has already been sectioned in. Sure would be nice if there was a full 1/4 available that would fit decent. If you have to manufacture a part for upper 1/4 area, remember that the mldg. fits pretty tight (check fit of mldg. throughout process) and clips must anchor to area that is fabricated (don't just build out of filler). I learned the hard way in my teens on a 62 Buick Blectra 225 lower 1/4 panel. Ended up shaving all lower trim because I didn't fit when brazing (yuk) multiple patches in. Good Luck, Karl

Karl has eys like an eagle. seeing them roset welds on the 1/4 panel.
He also pointed out the need to document the location and depth of the trim studs B-4 you remove the old panel.
your rust is extensive around the bottom and up the rs. take you time a fab up some replacement metal to fit in that area .

When you say trim studs do you mean the studs holding the clips? If so, do you measure from the bottom up or the top down to get the correct placement. Also, when I fab the new panel will I just drill new holes for the studs. What guage metal would be best to make the sides out of? Do you guys use a metal break for this. Sorry for so many questons, but I want this right and I want to do it myself and I don't trust anyone local for advice. You guys are helping more than you know. Thanks......

I would cheat. Stop by your local collision shop, ask if they have replaced any rear 1/4 panels and not used the upper sail area (that is the ares between 1/4 glass, or rear door and back window). A new donor piece that already has the two 90 degree bends needed would be helpful. Once a piece has been secured that will work for the long vertical sail area, the MOST difficult part will be fabricating that lower inside curve at upper deck panel. A lot of shops save new unused sections of 1/4 panels. Take your vertical back glass mldg. with you, if they have lots of chunks you may be able to find one with a contour that is pretty close. Also start looking at all vehicles and see if there is a similar style. That might narrow your search. Other option may be to buy two upper deck panels, use one for pieces to patch sides. Stud location is most critical relative to moulding position to glass and edge of outer panel. Measure off other side for depth and location of studs. There are screw in studs available. Karl

Karl, thanks for the reply. I will hit the body shops today after work. What suggestions do you have for the lower inside curve at upper deck panel? This will be done on both sides as both are a little thin....

Get the new filler panel THEN cut out you old one. Use your old sheet metal to make the repairs to the rest of your window track. Just DA it to bare steel and start making patterns.

The lower corner will be a challenge. You may have to fabricate three pieces, weld together, fit and install in vehicle. One piece creates the flange for glass seal area, one for the curve, one for the exposed part of 1/4 that is gone. Or use 67shovel's idea, take tin snips clip triangles out of donor piece, to allow to bend corner, weld closed, now fabricate exposed portion of 1/4 fit all together, weld in place. Given the condition of old panel, it would appear that only the center, or lower area may be left after removing. As stated by 67shovel, the lower area at deck lid may work nicely, if not too beat up. Carefully compare sharpness of edge of flange and exposed angle at lid if it looks close to bad vertical glass area it would be a very good option for side repair if no other pieces are available. Good idea in prior post from 67shovel! Love this site!! Karl

Thanks Karl and Shovel for the advice. I think I can reuse the old piece to patch with. I never thought about that before, but makes perfect sense.....My panel should be in tomorrow, so maybe this weekend I will dig into it. One more question, the seam on each side, how is this held in place...and how do you duplicate it? I promise this is my last question.

Thanks again.....

It don't have to be your last question.
The side seams are spot welded together, The flang hangs down inside the trunk. I like to rough cut the old panel out and do final drill out. handling just small pieces/strips

As for the trim studs. your local class house , shoud have the little sholdered screws to attach the trim clip to. They also shoul be able to fix you up with new clips also.

you'll need the measurment of the clips around the permiter but the most criticial it the stud distance from the FINISHED back, of the window channel flang.