I finally won a 1971 Chevelle model on Ebay. This is a very rare model that was only made in 1971 by MPC. I had to spend a small fortune to get it. :( Can't wait to build it as a replica of my car!

Ok, so I'm new to this model building thing. Looking for suggestions on supplies to buy and any insider tips. I have someone who is going to airbrush the body for me, but I'll be doing the rest. Is enamel the best paint to use? Do you guys brush or spray your parts?

Some pics of your Chevelle models would be nice as well! :)

Have not built a model in a long time, but loved it when I was a kid.
I would suggest building another model kit first to see how it turns out.
Then if you think it looks great move on to your 71 chevelle kit.
Also depends on how high your expectations are too, extremely detailed and well done models come only after experience. Otherwise just have fun with it.

That's good advice. I don't want to mess up this model since it cost so much and isn't readily available.

If there were 71 diecast out there with my color scheme, I would just buy one of those. Guess the 71-72 just don't demand the attention or sales like the earlier years. :(

You could pick up the '72 Chevelle model cheap at most hobby stores, you could practice on a few and save your rare one until you feel you can do it good enough. Models can be trickier than the real thing, my early ones aren't too spectacular but you get the hang of them after a few.

The model doesn't have to be perfect, just want it to look nice sitting in the garage or house somewhere. That's why I'm having a "pro" do the body's paint job. He's going to use PPG automotive paint. These model guys get serious with this stuff! He sands, primes, shoots a base coat and then clears! Just like a real car's paint job. Here's a Chevelle that he did....

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/5310/modelchevelleej7.png (http://imageshack.us)

With a X-Acto knife scrape any chrome or paint off before glueing. Plastic on Plastic. Use very little glue on each part..don't let it squish out. Take your time and keep your fingers clean too. :)

Thanks for the tip. I was advised to wear cotton or latex gloves.

I used to be pretty good at it, but I just haven't taken the time to finish one in several years. I never got into adding things like spark-plugs, etc, but I put a lot of detail into my painting... things like being able to read the white-letters on the tires, the engine size on the fenders, and even the numbers on the speedometer really adds to the realism of the car.

I never liked wearing gloves, because I lost the "feel" of what I was doing.

Check out this link. It's a forum like this one. I model during the winter, and this forum is the only place I look for advice. The guys (and girls) are really helpful and generous with advice.

http://www.briansmodelcars.com/index.asp

I used to spray the frame and other black parts with regular spray paint to save time, used airbrush for the body.

Wash the parts with soap, sand edges of parts after removing them from the tree, use small amounts of glue, and take your time with everything. You might browse for other kits that have parts you would like, they're usually decently simple to interchange

Wow, that's a pretty neat paint job on that 67 model... I have a buddy that's pretty into models... He puts in this little stainless braided hose, puts plug wires on, and even has this stuff he puts of the floor of the cab that's fuzzy like carpet!!! It's weird... Never seen carpet in a model.

Yeah, I've been finding out these model guys get into this stuff pretty deep. I'm not going to go that crazy. I just want the model to look presentable.

For some reason. I just cant see spending extra money to pay a pro to paint a model. Thats the reason I buy them in the first place, to assemble and paint them on my own. But I dont go buying rare stuff either I guess.

That is so cool! I picked up one many years back also, I think mine is the AMG version though. It has a bunch of cool accessories you can put on it for the build.
Maybe someday I will get around to opening it up! I have never even opened it! I just suck at model building so I was afraid to touch it.

Another tip is dont apply glue to the parts directly from the tube... you will get to much...
I put a drop on a piece of flat plastic scrap... then apply to parts using a toothpick...

Hhhmm....didn't know they made a '71 Chevelle model....what year is the box from? I'd guess it must be outdated by now...

I know AMT Ertl makes a '72 but IMO AMT Ertl lacks detail.....I used to have a "street machines" '72 way back in '87 or '88....came modeled in light blue......

For paint I like Testors but you can also get other brands (can't think of the names now) at the local Hobby shop. Some hobby shops offer special color code paints such as the Daytona yellow and the Monaco orange used on the '69 Chevelles and '69 Camaros...it'll say it on the can and it will also show a color code.

Once the paint is on and dry give it a shot of clear coat....I like laquer but enamel is ok too.

I spray a majority of my parts and usually only brush the small stuff. However if the fan belt happens to be on the same tree as the radiator shroud I'll spray that area flat black and mask off the rest. Spraying almost always comes out better than brushing, even on the small parts.

Cut the parts off the trees with a sharp hobby knife unless you want excess flash or missing chunks.

Use the testors glue in the red tubes. The blue tubes don't hold as well.

For gluing in the windows be careful and use only a small amount of cement....otherwise the windows will fog up at the glue joints. I've heard it's best to use Elmers glue on the windows but that stuff is good for holding paper and card board together, not polystyrene plastic.

Sand the sharp endges of the body and the joint lines as well. Otherwise the paint will draw away from the sharp edges and it won't look right.

If you really want to be neat about the glue not showing up get some of those glue tips that reduce the glue line to a thin line. You can make the line slightly bigger by snipping the tip as big as you want the glue to come out.

When painting a two-tone combo it's said to be best to paint the lighter color first. I usually use scotch tape as it seems to give a sharper line than masking tape.

For the trim hobby shops sell a special and expensive (about $6-$10) paint brush with a very fine tip. I usually paint all my exterior trim and then touch up any excess areas not intended for silver paint with the body color in a small cup or if you wanna get redneckish, sue the cap off the paint can and plug the little vent hole in the cap. (if so equipped)

I'd show pics of all my models (I have a bunch of them) but I'm overseas right now fighting a war....remind me when I get back next year and I'll try and get some for you.

****Model car builder since 1986****

Here is some tips I learned as a kid (my son does not have the patience do do all this).

Spray all the unchromed small plastic stuff flat black or dark grey while it's on the tree. Then when dry, lightly scuff and follow up with color. Missed spots don't show up, more like a real car.
Hang it and spray it, so you get both side on full parts.
Don't spray the back of 1-sided pieces.
Detail small parts before removing them from the tree (easier to hold).
Lightly scrape edges to be glued with an X-Acto knife
Apply glue with a tooth pick.
Touch up parts AFTER you assemble them using a tooth pick and paint sprayed on a paper plate.
I always used small parts from ink pens and electronic gizmos to "complete" the details.

I really got into models a few years ago, then lost t when the kids came along, but still have a bunch in reserve for when I get back into it. I bought 2 '72s for when mine's done. A before and after. I'll try to add pics of some others soon.

I always preferred a brush-on type glue, that way you can apply it with a toothpick if you want - and it isn't so "stringy" like the testors in a tube.

Also, I found water-based hobby paints to apply much better than oil-based.

Another tip is dont apply glue to the parts directly from the tube... you will get to much...
I put a drop on a piece of flat plastic scrap... then apply to parts using a toothpick...

Better yet don't use the gel glue from a tube. Use the brush on stuff from a jar. Works much better and you get better at making sure your parts match to each other flush.

I always preferred a brush-on type glue, that way you can apply it with a toothpick if you want - and it isn't so "stringy" like the testors in a tube.


Better yet don't use the gel glue from a tube. Use the brush on stuff from a jar. Works much better and you get better at making sure your parts match to each other flush.

Hey thats a great idea!! ;) :beers:

Its nice to know from time to time that I'm not off in my own little world doing things in a way nobody else does...

I have several models of Chevelles with different paint schemes so I can decide which way to paint it. The above suggestions are good. I also use two pairs of tweezers and a desk lamp so I can see to do detail work. As for painting my cars, I used the small cans of touch-up paint from auto parts stores. I'm not worried about exact, just to get ideas. Have fun, and don't go cross-eyed looking at small parts.

Better yet don't use the gel glue from a tube. Use the brush on stuff from a jar. Works much better and you get better at making sure your parts match to each other flush.

I use Tenax liquid glue, it's probably more of a solvent than an adhesive so it doesn't leave any build-up at all. For example, when you glue the engine halves together, you just wrap a rubber band around it, brush the seams, wiggle the pieces a little bit and capillary action will take care of the rest. I use a lot of CA glue too, if the parts don't need any fitting and can be assembled correctly without screwing up.

There are all kinds of special adhesives for different purposes, but Tenax and CA glue works for most things you do before painting. I usually use Heller's plastic cement for the rest, together with epoxy for the suspension and other parts that need some added strength. I use Elmer's for glass parts quite often, as it dries clear and any excess can be wiped off with a damp rag. It's perfect for headlight lenses, as these are almost impossible to glue with anything else without making a mess.

I use an air brush (Badger 200) for most painting, but it's not all that difficult to get a nice paint job if you use a polishing kit like Micro-Mesh. It's a sanding system that works the same way as when you color sand a car. It comes as a kit with grits down to 12,000, and will give you a perfect finish if you just have enough patience.

And don't even try to paint the chrome trim, chrome foil like Bare-Metal looks much better and is easier to use too. Once you get familiar with this material, you can use it for masking as well.

Most of the materials I use can be bought from Micro-Mark (http://www.micromark.com/) or any good hobby store.

Slick,
I bought one too about a year ago on E-bay. Also paid dearly for it. Interesting because the car on the box is the same color as mine. I have not even opened the box yet, just dont have the time. Will have to compare notes with you.

Man, lots of tips I would have never thought about! Guess I better do a practice model before the 71 Chevelle.


Is this the same 71 Chevelle model that you guys bought?

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/7760/modelcq2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

It can be built stock or a couple other crazy ways. From what I gather it was only released or made in 1971.

If there's another 71 out there somewhere, I would like to know about it.

I have that exact same kit! That is the one I have. Never even opened the plastic bags yet! Waiting for some skills!

Some models bring silly money to the auctions. That is a cool one for sure.

As for models, and I know these are slot cars, as well as FORDS (Hey! I do make a '66 Chevelle!), these suckers are made to run on my slot car track. I enjoy casting and building them up just like a regular model. Except, these actually get racing "stripes" the more you run them... :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/dreinecke/100_2154.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/dreinecke/100_2155.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v159/dreinecke/100_2159.jpg

And no, the Chevelles aren't losing, they are LAPPING!

Here is a question I have always wondered.

When you have all those parts on the "sprue" inside the kit. How do you manage to paint all those parts and still allow them to look good? Using the dry brush method with just a paint brush dipped in the proper color? Or do you use a fine tip on an airbrush and keep changing colors?