I took me 5 hours today to do the stripes, what a pain in the rear. I do have a problem maybe someone can help with, there is a ton of tape marks form the stripe kit, when I try and get it off it take some of the perl with it, any ideas?

These pictures are after wet sanding and the perl stripes but no clear yet.

http://www.1970chevelle.net/blue3.jpg
http://www.1970chevelle.net/blue4.jpg
http://www.1970chevelle.net/blue5.jpg


Lee

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1970 ZZ502 Chevelle (http://www.1970chevelle.net)
My Wife's 1967 ZZ502 Camaro 12.04@115 (http://www.1967camaro.net)
1997 Yukon 4x4 13.7@98 (http://www.blown4x4.com)

Same thing happened when I did the stripes on my hood. Not sure if it was because the paint was not dry or the tape was not stuck on better.

It looks great but the stripes look a little thin in some areas,like it need another coat.It still looks great.Did you use the 75% overlap method that HOK recommends in their video for the blue then switch to 50% overlap?I hope mine looks that good.I want to go with Brandywine or the Subaru sedona red pearl.A lot of work there.Looks great. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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John 67SS
ACES #2887
Team Chevelle Gold #127

Looks great, really like the way you did the 502.

ss396boy - HOK said 12 hours before the stripes so maybe it's just a fact of life to get the tape goo everywhere. I'm sure it's going to take hours today to get it off and not hurt the tripes.

67ss - no, there are no thin spots when we see it in person, maybe lighting or shadows or lack of clear is altering the look. I put 4 coats of white and 4 coats of perl, in fact there's probably too much paint! I did follow their instructions with the 75 then 50 overlap.

RADAIR1 - Thanks, I knew I wanted the 502 but it looked funny by itself, I wonder how many people I'm going to have to explain what mpfi is!

Lee



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1970 ZZ502 Chevelle (http://www.1970chevelle.net)
My Wife's 1967 ZZ502 Camaro 12.04@115 (http://www.1967camaro.net)
1997 Yukon 4x4 13.7@98 (http://www.blown4x4.com)

This is why I don't use tape kits. You need to use 3m blue tape and free hand the stripes. It takes a bit to get it right, but it makes it fool proof.

I don't think theres any solvents that will work without affecting the base

If you tamper with it will destroy the pearl eveness.

How come you didn't do the hood and decklid separate? Makes for spraying the sides of the hood and decklid bunch easier. Just curious..

RandyB - I'm not sure what you mean getting the sides easier, it was easy! I raised the hood hinges about a .25" higher the the body, they sprayed nicely, I also raised the hood and trunk lid and caught the edges. Remember that I have aleady painted the underside of the hood and trunk lid so the edges where already pretty nice.

Lee

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1970 ZZ502 Chevelle (http://www.1970chevelle.net)
My Wife's 1967 ZZ502 Camaro 12.04@115 (http://www.1967camaro.net)
1997 Yukon 4x4 13.7@98 (http://www.blown4x4.com)

Tape can mess up metallics and pearls when applied to the basecoat.I like to spray a coat of clear on the panels to be striped,come back the next,wetsand it,lay the stripes,paint the stripes and clear.This way you have a coat of clear to tape on and you dont have to worry about smudges or tape lines in the base.

Ok .. Make sure you get all your sanding dust off before you re clear.

the tape will take some of the pearl with it unless it is very dry. i usually wait over night before striping over pearl or metallics, or clear wait a week, block and add the stripes and re clear the whole car. basecoats (almost) always have a 24 hr window you can let stand before clear, the drier the better. solid colors you can get away with more cause its solid. i havent sprayed much of house of colors but do they recomend sanding the basecoat before clear or is that clear? the reason i ask is because all the time you spent getting the base to lay just right could be ruined by sanding. try to stay away from the blue fine line, use the original 3m fine line tape. the blue doesnt like to turn and lifts on corners.

http://budruski.myplace.com/

[This message has been edited by budruski (edited 02-27-2002).]

It looks great, but enlighten me..why would you spray the stripes before the color? I normally shoot them over the color coat. I havent used HOK, is there something different about it? Looks impossible to mask off the stripes.

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Dave
70 chevelle ss396 conv
66 chevelle ss396 hdp/conv
72 chevelle
55/57/61 chevies
TC member #493
Never forget Earnhardt!

OK, got all the tape marks off, it actually wasnt too bad. I used blue pin striping tape to cover the perl stripes then went at it with remover. Saved it!

drptop70ss - the process I took was this:
1) several coats of epoxy primer and several block sanding sessions :-(
2) 3 coats sealer
3) 4 coats perl base
4) 5 coat kandy
5) blocked sanded kandy because of dirt/gook in paint
6) 4 coats clear
7) wet sand
8) paint stripes
9) 4 coats clear

Now I need to wet sand with 2000 and follow up with buffing. I'm almost done!

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1970 ZZ502 Chevelle (http://www.1970chevelle.net)
My Wife's 1967 ZZ502 Camaro 12.04@115 (http://www.1967camaro.net)
1997 Yukon 4x4 13.7@98 (http://www.blown4x4.com)

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 70_chevelle:
I wonder how many people I'm going to have to explain what mpfi is!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ok I gotta ask, it's multi-port fuel injection, right?

Car looks AWESOME!



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Eric Taylor
72 Malibu 350
"Be normal and the crowd will accept you. Be deranged, and they will make you their leader."

gasoline_fiend - Yup! 502 by itself was too boring.

Lee


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1970 ZZ502 Chevelle (http://www.1970chevelle.net)
My Wife's 1967 ZZ502 Camaro 12.04@115 (http://www.1967camaro.net)
1997 Yukon 4x4 13.7@98 (http://www.blown4x4.com)

You should be done buffing by now.. Wheres the finished Pics http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

Oh yeah! At least now you'll have an excuse for why your right arm is more muscular than your left when the woman notices http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

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X-Ray View of my Chevelle http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif (http://www.normieschevelle.com/sideview.jpg)
Getting Closer (http://www.normieschevelle.com/passfull.jpg)

[This message has been edited by normie (edited 03-01-2002).]

normie - your funny. Buffing, not done, no way! Ihave only half the car wet sanded, I'm using 1200 then 2000 and it's a tough job to say the least. I do plan on starting the buffing process tomarrow and finish sunday. I'm not sure if I want to publish pictures before it's completely put back together, dont want to bore everyone.

But here's one more before I started the sanding process:
http://www.1970chevelle.net/blue6.jpg

Lee

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1970 ZZ502 Chevelle (http://www.1970chevelle.net)
My Wife's 1967 ZZ502 Camaro 12.04@115 (http://www.1967camaro.net)
1997 Yukon 4x4 13.7@98 (http://www.blown4x4.com)

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 70_chevelle:
I'm not sure if I want to publish pictures before it's completely put back together, dont want to bore everyone.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Lee, were all Chevelle freaks here, you could show us a picture of your right rear body mount bushing in several stages of install, and we would all GAWK at them http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif This car is one I would absolutely LOVE too see in person....

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X-Ray View of my Chevelle http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif (http://www.normieschevelle.com/sideview.jpg)
Getting Closer (http://www.normieschevelle.com/passfull.jpg)

[This message has been edited by normie (edited 03-02-2002).]

I have just found my new color.

EXACTLY what I wanted. Damn that looks good.

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Joe Yoder (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Joe_Y.jpg)
BADBU68 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Joe_Y68pt1.jpg)
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.

Lee, make sure to take pictures of the before sanding and after. Those would look great on your website with a little tutorial for the TC.