I am finally ready to get my car on the road except for one problem. I am going to be using this as a daily driver to school and work. Basically i replaced most of the ignition items: coil, plugs, wires, rotor,points, conderser,vaccum advance and a few other things. I rebuilt the carb and cleaned the carbon off the top of the pistons. I cleaned and painted both manifolds and replaced all hoses and coolant.

Here is my problem.
The car basically has no power. Whenever i hit the gas, soft or hard it just dies. It just drains out of power. It gave me a backfire once, so i set the timing and dwell again. It still is at a loss for power. It seems to be running hot but i am not positive. My thermostat is working correctly, but the colant doesnt seem to cool down very quick at all, even after a 5 minute slow drive. I only had time to take one plug put and it was pretty black. I would say i have 2 hours of run time on them. Probably 4/5th's of that time being at idle. One thing i found it that the car runs slightly better without the air filter on. My airfilter is clean but for some reason it has a touch more power with it off.
Does anyone have an idea on what the problem could be??

This is for my 64 malibu with a L6 in it.

Is the choke opening??

the choke opens when the engine warms, so i dont think that is the problem.

The exhaust flap may not be working correctly but i cant tell. But when i manually turn it, it does not effect the preformance. Could it still have to do with ignition?

I figured here is a better spot to post this than anywhere else cause it is only an engine problem.... i hope.
I am finally ready to get my car on the road except for one problem. I am going to be using this as a daily driver to school and work. Basically i replaced most of the ignition items: coil, plugs, wires, rotor,points, conderser,vaccum advance and a few other things. I rebuilt the carb and cleaned the carbon off the top of the pistons. I cleaned and painted both manifolds and replaced all hoses and coolant.

Here is my problem.
The car basically has no power. Whenever i hit the gas, soft or hard it just dies. It just drains out of power. It gave me a backfire once, so i set the timing and dwell again. It still is at a loss for power. It seems to be running hot but i am not positive. My thermostat is working correctly, but the colant doesnt seem to cool down very quick at all, even after a 5 minute slow drive. I only had time to take one plug put and it was pretty black. I would say i have 2 hours of run time on them. Probably 4/5th's of that time being at idle. One thing i found it that the car runs slightly better without the air filter on. My airfilter is clean but for some reason it has a touch more power with it off.
Does anyone have an idea on what the problem could be??

This is for my 64 malibu with a L6 in it.


Also maybe someone can help me with this. When i shift, i can shift through all the gears when i am not moving. When i am moving i can shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd with no problems. But when i am moving i cant shift down. When i stop i can shift down but not when im moving. It makes a grinding noise. Is this just a clutch adjustment? And where would i adjust it? thanks. It is a 3 speed on the tree.

I would readjust the carb using a vacuum gauge. turn the mixture screws one at a time to maximize your vacuum reading. Also verify your firing order and post your vacuum,dwell and timing settings. As far as downshifting the car while moving. You should be able to downshift from 3 to 2. 1st gear on old cars did not have syncros, so you did have to stop before shifting back into 1st. I think the reason you cannot down shift at all is due to over 40+ years of use. It is just worn out:(

Bill

Ryan..with air cleaner assy removed and engine "off",hold choke plate open and give the throttle a couple of pumps by hand.
Are you getting a good stream of fuel into the carb when you do this?
If not...possible accelerator pump problem or maybe the float level is too low.

i am acutally not sure if i cant shift down from 3rd to 2nd but i know i cant shift from 2nd to 1st. So i should never be able to shift from 2nd to 1st while moving?

As far as the firing order is correct. The vaccum reading, is only like 4. Is that low?

The words 'runs better with the air filter out', 'plug looks black', and 'I rebuilt the carb' send up a flag to me, sounds like a rich fuel problem. I'd double check the carb rebuild, look for things like the float level being to high, the float leaking(if brass) or saturating with fuel(if foam), air mixture adjustment but only dive into the carb after you are absolutly positive that your ignition is spot on-correct plugs and gap, dwell, timing, both advance units working correctly, ect. I've also had new condensers be bad right from the box, they will make you pull your hair out, same with a bad float. If you have access to one, an older Chilton or Clymer manual will have a good general troubleshooting guide that will help.

Are you certain of the vacuum reading Ryan? 4 in/hg at a presumed 700 RPM idle is really-really low for a stock L6. That engine (if close to stock) should have something closer to 20 in/hg of vacuum at idle.

Dan

ya i remeber it being very low, i will check it again. If it is low what does than mean>???

i am acutally not sure if i cant shift down from 3rd to 2nd but i know i cant shift from 2nd to 1st. So i should never be able to shift from 2nd to 1st while moving?

As far as the firing order is correct. The vaccum reading, is only like 4. Is that low?

That is correct, you will not be able to shift to 1st until the car is stopped. Try from 3rd to 2nd that should be ok. Yes 4 is very low, like SS396 said it should be 20, no lower than 16. When the car is running try covering the entire carb opening, this should stall the engine. I think you have a big vacuum leak, in fact I'm amazed it runs at all !!!

Bill

the first condenser i had was bad so i did need to buy another, Can i just use the air screw and turn it in to lean it out?? thanks

Also there is a slight amount of gas i can see between the intake and exhaust manifold, It bubbles when i give it alot of gas. Could this be the problem?

You have a bad carb gasket or intake gasket or even a vacuum port diconnected. Does your distributor have a vacuum line to the carb or intake?

If it is low what does than mean>???
Means it's gonna run like crap.:D

Seriously, what Bill said.

the first condenser i had was bad so i did need to buy another, Can i just use the air screw and turn it in to lean it out?? thanks

Also there is a slight amount of gas i can see between the intake and exhaust manifold, It bubbles when i give it alot of gas. Could this be the problem?
yup......could be

ok im gonna retest the vaccum. What reading am i looking for? Around 20? Also this goes right onto where the vaccum hose would go onto the carb right? Or does it go by the hose end near the distributor. When i get it on, what do i need to do to try to adjust it. I am borring it from a friend and it doesnt have directions so i dont exactly know how to use it. MAybe i was doing something wrong the first time?? :clonk:

anyone??

i just checked and i can put my had over the carb and it still runs. Then i put my airfilter on and i put my hand over the opening and it still runs.

Take a spray can of carb cleaner and spray around the intake manifold. if the idle picks up then you've found your intake leak . don't forget to spray around the base of the carb also.

he's your problem. I assume you have a Holley carb. You have a vaccum leak for one. It maybe from the carb rebuild.

second you used the wrong metering block gaskets and it is allowing too much fuel to pass and causeing the rich and unadjustable condition. Holleys are known to also have throttle plates that bend or warp very easily depending on the way one tightens the carb to the intake. In addition the throttle shafts start to leak do to wear depending on temperature. When rebuilding carbs it is inportant to always use some kind of (i forget the term) straight bar to check for any uneven flat surfaces and uneven flat surface parts.

In the past I have rebuilt many holley carbs and had lots of uneven flat surfaces especially metering blocks, throttle plates and air body.

What I would due is borrow from a friend if you are able another carb to test and see if the carb makes the dirrerence. Many years ago back in the 80's on my chevelle I had the same problem and drove me to insanity. I finally borrowed a friends 600 carter AFB and after start I knew right away there was no longer the issue and the vaccum leak was gone.

Also, intake gaskets are important to check. Like stated by other posts use carb cleaner at suspected areas where vaccum can escape. It will be difficult to locate until you can at least get the engine running decent for testing.

Theres a lot of knowledge on this forum and alot of great guys here willing to help... Let us all know some more detailed info for some more suggestions.

Blessings:thumbsup:

i just have the stock rochester carb. 1bbl.

i do notice some bubbles from the gasket between the intake and the exhaust manifold, could this be the problem??

i do notice some bubbles from the gasket between the intake and the exhaust manifold, could this be the problem??

Yes, Also try what Pizzi-man had suggested.

sorry about that... I was assuming u had a holley. Intake gasket sounds like the case. Also, make sure you check the base plate with carb cleaner while running. I had 2 of these same carbs that had vaccum leaks there and make sure the metering rods are contacting correctly. In addition make sure the floats are at the correct level. Some times if you replace the floats in the rebuild the floats are not within proper spec.

I would still recommend that you replace the intake gaskets and then if some problem persists, borrow another carb and test it out. anyways sounds like you are persistent checking things out. Hope things work out without too much more frustration for you.

Blessings

sorry about that... I was assuming u had a holley. Intake gasket sounds like the case. Also, make sure you check the base plate with carb cleaner while running. I had 2 of these same carbs that had vaccum leaks there and make sure the metering rods are contacting correctly. In addition make sure the floats are at the correct level. Some times if you replace the floats in the rebuild the floats are not within proper spec.

I would still recommend that you replace the intake gaskets and then if some problem persists, borrow another carb and test it out. anyways sounds like you are persistent checking things out. Hope things work out without too much more frustration for you.

Blessings

What are you setting timing and dwell at? Sounds to me like you have VERY retarded timing.

my intake and exhaust manifold bolts were pretty loose. I tightened them up and checked the carb bolts and all other intake bolts. I retightened all that needed it. I sprayed some carb cleaner where the carb meets the intake and where the intake manifold meets the exhaust manifold. No bubbles. I put my air filter back on and tried to stall it. It didnt work. If i take it off and put my hand over the carb the idle seems to go up a bit and it starts to suck air in much quicker but i cant stall it.

Anyway i set the timing 4 times each slightly differnt. Still a no go. I use to not have any power. Now i have some. Basically i will hit the petal maybe 1/4 of the way. It bogs then bucks, and then picks up. If i am just doing the throttle manually by the carb, it just bogs and then picks up, but it takes 2 seconds before it picks up. I cant seem to clear the problem. Any idea's???

You still have a vacuum leak. Remove the carb and tighten all screws and check gasket mating surfaces. Also do the samething for the intake manifold. With the air filter off you need to be able to stall the engine by covering it with your hand or a rag. You also may want to see if any members live close to you to help solve your problem.

ya i think i need someone to check out my car....

Was the engine running while you were spraying the carb cleaner , it won't
make bubbles because its in a vaccum ,it will sucking in air , start the car ,If you have a vaccum leak the idle should speed up when you spray carb cleaner around intake gaskets and carb base plate .

That is correct, you will not be able to shift to 1st until the car is stopped.

You've never double clutched? My very first car was '65 Velle with the 194 - 3 on the tree. My dad (truck driver for a lot of years) taught me how to double clutch. Allows for those 2nd to 1st down shifts. Hard to describe how to do it though.

i have never double clutched but it doesnt sound good for the trans.


As far as the carb cleaner, there was no change in the Rpms, i cant figure out what the problem could be. Could it be the timing?

It is not good if you don't do it right. :D I never ground gears once I got the hang of it. Truckers used to have to do it a lot.

You've never double clutched? My very first car was '65 Velle with the 194 - 3 on the tree. My dad (truck driver for a lot of years) taught me how to double clutch. Allows for those 2nd to 1st down shifts. Hard to describe how to do it though.


I've only driven other peoples car with no 1st gear syncros. I did not know that was possible. I've heard the term, but never put it into practice.

Ryan, you are going to have to disassembly the intake and carb and check the mating surfaces.

HEY GUYS IS THERE ANY MEMBERS THAT LIVE CLOSE TO RYAN TO HELP HIM OUT? Thanks !!!!!!!!!!

I will take the carb off this week and buy a new gasket for the intake to carb mating surface and for the exhaust to intake manifold maiting surface. It was also brought to my attenion. Someone suggested a lack of fuel getting into the carb when i hit the gas, causing the backfire. Is there a way to check this?

Can anyone describe how to double shift?? :D

Double clutch = A shifting technique wherein you can shift from one gear to another without benefit of synchronizers by releasing the clutch before you upshift or down shift and blip the throttle such that engine speed, transmission input shaft and transmission output shaft speed match. Basically that allows the gears to mesh easily with no grinding.

The easiest way to grasp the concept is to imagine sitting in your car at a dead stop and going thru the gears. Its easy because everything is at the same velocity (zero RPM) You are doing the same thing when you double clutch. You are getting everything rotating at the same velocity so that everything drops into place without clashing.

Believe me its not an easy technique to master.

Another area where double clutching is, or used to be, prominent is in F-1 and any other manual shifted racing classes where the drivers double clutch ( AKA "heel and toe") to downshift as they approach corners. Of course now-a-days thats kinda becoming a thing of the past with "paddle" shifting and air shifters etc.

Heel and toe means placing your right heel on the brake and your right toes on the gas and your left foot on the clutch. You double clutch down thru the gears toeing the gas as you simultaneously operate the brakes and clutch. Another tricky thing to do. Personally I prefer automatic cars now as I have gotten older but I used to be a fair hand at all that stuff back in my "stick shift" days.

Wow, I couldn't have explained it that well!:beers: It's easy to do once you have the hang of it, but I couldn't describe it that well.