by the way, I found a real good metal polishing guy here in manassas virginia, if anyone wants a good source. but , I am getting all my aluminum window trim pieces polished and was wondering what you guys are using for clear coats. what have you had good success with? how long does it last? car it be chemicaly striped and re done if it gets scratched? ect...

what about por-15's clear coat?
thanks

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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
www.EINSTYN.com (http://www.EINSTYN.com) updated 7-10-02 TC#1460, VCEA#2
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1970 Chevelle 454 Wagons

There is an article in this month's CHP or PHR that talks about protecting polished aluminum.


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Erik

'69 Chevelle Sport Coupe, EFI355, TH350
'68 Chevrolet C10 Stepside Project, 292, t-56
'77 Chevrolet K20 Silverado LWB, 400CI, TH400

If your getting your window trim polished it's stainless steel and won't require any protection. You will need to clear any aluminum that you get polished or it will oxidize quickly. You may want to consider clear anodizing on you polished aluminum just like the factory did.

i am finishing up this septembers issue of chp then i will look back at july's for that artical. thanks. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif
all the pieces i have for around the door frame on a wagon are like the door frame molding on el camino's. it is aluminum not stainless. i have talked to metal finishers and they told me that clear anodizing polished aluminum will not look "shinny". the factory did wht is called OEM bright. which is a completely different anodizing process. there is no one around the east side of the U.S. that does this . i was told. however i know someone in Canada that has had OEM bright done up there. but after much thought, as always, i am thinking that it is much better in the long run to have the aluminum polished and clear coated. because that would leave me with the option to strip the clear, re polish any scratches and re clear coat it. verses a considerable effort when doing the oem bright method. the anodizing has to be stripped by their special process and it becaomes an issue of how much aluminum is left. i just think this is the better way to go. i dont know, how many years does oem bright last on a mid eastern daily driver? 5 to 10 years befor it gets rough? i think a clear coating would be a good protective coating that will keep the aluminum from ever getting exposed. where as anodizing is not keeping the aluminum from environment and hands and rubbing etc... the anodizing coating is only a mil or so thick.
por-15 Glisten PC i was just looking at and talking to them. it is a 2 part urethane substance that seals and protects real nicely. i think thats the way i want to go. has any body used this? or disagree on polishing and clear coating verses oem anodizing?

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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
www.EINSTYN.com (http://www.EINSTYN.com) updated 7-10-02 TC#1460, VCEA#2
. . _________ . . . . . .. _________
.../___---___\ . . ____/|__|__\___\
(OO[=====]OO) {_______________|
.{}.............{}....(O).............(O)...
1970 Chevelle 454 Wagons

[This message has been edited by FO_FDYFO (edited 07-18-2002).]

Personally, I think you'll have a hard time getting clear coat to stick directly to aluminum. Usually, clear coat is made to go over another paint. On factory aluminum rims they seem to use some sort of plastic coating.

Peter

peter, from one pete to another, thanks for your input. you may be correct but, por-15 says this product is for over polished aluminum. also it is a urethane product which is what people put on there wheels too. i found out that regular paint stripper will remove it! thats a bonus. http://www.por15.com/faqs/faqglist.html
pete