I'm begining to start the body work on my chevelle, wanted to get some pointers. I was thinking about using a pnuematic flat file with 80 or 100 grit to highlight any dents or high/low spots in the body. Was thinking I would do this then rough up any area's needing bondo, apply bondo flat file till smooth, then shoot the whole car with dp 90, and then k-36 or38 and start blocking. Would probably need to prime and block in several area's a couple of times, using that 3m guidecoat. Was thinking that once I'm confidant the body is straight,I would shoot a coat of black primer, block it one last time. I would then shoot a final coat of black primer and then seal it, as I plan to leave it in primer for awhile till I get some other issue's dealt with. Doe's this seem like a reasonable approach. Also once I get the bondo knocked down, what grit would be best to start blocking with? Suggestion's greatly appreciated, thanks.

Dave

ttt

After you air file the car and find your low and high spots I would try and work them out with a hammer and dolly or with a shrinking disc. The less filler to me is better. I used a wire wheel in a drill and got most if not all of the old paint and seam sealer removed from area’s like the door jambs, trunk lid jamb, and the roof drip rails.
I would also spend time lining up the doors, fenders, trunk lid, hood and such so you can get nice gaps and even height between the panels. On mine I used the air file over the gaps between the back edge of the door and the front edge of the quarters and if the back edge of the door lip was low I took a body hammer and bent the edge of the door out some until it was flush with the quarter panel.
After I got the filler work done I shot on some primer and sanded it with 120 dry to check my work since I cannot always feel the little ins and outs on a panel. I’ve tried using different methods to feel them but I think it is something that if you do a lot it will come to you. I just don’t do body work enough to pick up that skill. I can feel the big ones but just have a time with the smaller ones spread over a larger area.
Once the low or high spots were seen I then did some more hammer and dolly work and reshot another coat of primer over the panel. Once I sanded it again and was happy with no high or low spots I switched to 220 wet and went over it again. I then switched to 400 wet and after I used that grit and wiped the panel dry I could sight down the panel and see a little bit of reflection to help see and other little wiggles or dips that needed some more attention.
I started with a bare metal surface on my car but if I had paint on the car I would start with 120 grit first and see how it cuts.
Jim

Should I remove the paint? It's the original paint job and it's still in decent shape. Couldn't I just scuff it and primer over the top?

If it seems straight the best way is to go over the whole car with 320 grit on a D/A or 220 if you are careful. then shoot your K-38 and dry block it by hand/// using guide coat first!!! and keep aplying k-38 and blocking it. If you need to do body work you really need to take that area to bare metal and then add filler or best would be the Dp then the filler. The only time you need DP is when you go to bare metal, and if you do go to all the work of going to bare metal don't touch the bare metal with your hands and make sure you clean it with dx330 befor you shoot DP or apply filler. You will be amazed how much junk you clean off that shinny bare steel with the DX330!