Will this hit the hood? or will it work just fine? Chevelle 69 or 71 booster and mastercylinder on a chevelle 64. Took some pictures of it, will not mount the hood before IŽve got the parts for my engine and tranny and just wanŽt to be sure.

Marcus

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/12bult/IMG_0220.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/12bult/IMG_0222.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/12bult/IMG_0221.jpg


http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/12bult/IMG_0223.jpg

Why's it sticking up at like a 30 degree angle? Shouldn't it be horizontally level?

Why's it sticking up at like a 30 degree angle? Shouldn't it be horizontally level?

DonŽt know either, but the booster/bracket is angled that way.

Marcus

I think you're going to want to adjust the bracket to level the booster and master cylinder. It's going to be difficult bleeding the brakes and changing the brake fluid like that.

Mine sticks up like that as well on my 69.. Makes it fun to bleed the brakes, you have to add fluid after EVERY pump..

I'll look at mine when I get home as far as how high it sticks up compared to the fender, but I know (on 69's at least) the hood does bow slightly.. I thought my hood wood never clear my air cleaner when I looked at it before the hood was on, but it does..

Well I heard the problem with the angle isnt solved by adding more fluid. You need to raise the rear in order for the mc to be level. The snout at the end of the mc will hold air, and can not be realeased unless it is level when being bled.

Looking at the pics, it looks like it is going to be close. That is a huge angle.

Those look like copper lines on the master???? If they are you do not want to do that. They should be steel. Copper cannot hold up to the pressure of a power boosted brake system. Also. Never use a compression fitting. Always use unions.

Check these pictures out. This is a stock setup for a 1970 El Camino. Stock hood does clear. Click for larger picture.

On my Volvo and other newer cars they use cooper lines, used cooper before and never had any troubles. Will the preassure be higher in a pb brake system?

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h211/12bult/IMG_0255.jpg

Marcus

wow that mc is really raked up! mine is but not that high.. thats odd...

Those look like copper lines on the master???? If they are you do not want to do that. They should be steel. Copper cannot hold up to the pressure of a power boosted brake system.

They are not really pure copper, they are a copper alloy and are commonly used in Sweden as they resist the climate better. They are a bit softer than the lines we use here in the US though, so they usually recommend a tighter clamp spacing to avoid stress cracks.

Don't know about the 64's, but he angle is normal for a later style booster, the boosters come like that. The m/c will clear the hood on the later model cars, so I'd say that it will be ok on your's too. I think the reason for the angle is that the pushrod from the booster is attached lower on the pedal, and the booster needs to be angled to put the pushrod at a 90 degree angle to the pedal.

BTW: The angled m/c will require bench bleeding. Did you do that?

HaveŽnt bleed yet, got cold a couple of days ago and was waiting for new wheel bolts/studs. Picked them up last friday and will have to press them in as soon as I feel better. Can you explain what you meen with bench bleeding?
Thanks for all the help.

Marcus

If the m/c is not level, you won't get all the air out of it. What you need to do is to take the m/c off, put it in a vise and bleed it while it's level, then put it back in the car.

You run lines from the fittings and down into the reservoir, fill up with fluid until the ends of the lines are submerged and then pump the m/c until you can't see any air coming from the lines. Then you install it in the car, taking care not to let any air back in through the fittings. You can leave the bleeder lines on until you're ready to connect the brake lines, that's probably the best way to avoid a mess.