Well hi there.

Ok so I am rewiring the entire electrical system in my car minus the body harness.

Here is what I have:
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/harnesses.jpg

I have so far installed the front lamp harness and the rear lamp harness. They were both a bitch. My back is killing me from being in the trunk. My stomach hurts from wrentching rusted bolts (still haven't healed from surgery yet).

I must say that I find that $25 assembly manual pretty much useless.

Now let's get down to the nitty gritty here. I am having some problems.

1) Where do you mount the junction block? I mounted it by the battery behing the lights on the inside of the engine compartment. it is loose, but I will find a way to bolt it in there and screw new holes. Is thast an ok spot?
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/junctionblock.jpg

2) I am not sure if I put the connectors where they need to go. Does this look right?
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/hornrelay2.jpg

3) One of the screws on the horn relay seems to be slipping or not gripping. I am going to find a nut that will fit on the back. Is that cool?

4) What the heck does this go to? It was on my old harness and my new harness. It is part of the tail lamp harness. The schematics say it goes to the dome light. is that right?
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/rearlamp4.jpg

5) My old rear lamp harness had grounds coming out of the lamp plug to ground to the lamp housing bolts like this:
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/rearlamp3.jpg

But my new ones do not have anything I need to ground like shown here:
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/rearlamp2.jpg

What gives? Do I not need to worry about grounding those then?

On to the engine harness...

I got the HEI harness like I was told to on here. Unfortunately, I think that might have been a mistake.

6) On my new harness, there is a green wire. In the schematic it goes to the TEMP GUAGE (Engine Unit). Well I have a slinky type wire that is my temp guage on the block. So where does this go?
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/greenwire.jpg
On the old harness, the previous owner just grounded this out to the firewall.
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/greenwireold.jpg
That doesn't seem right at all. Any ideas?

7) I have two wires I am not sure where they go. The first is the two pink wires going into a plug. Where might these go? I imagine this would plug into an HEI setup, but mine is not HEI.
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/pinkwires.jpg

I have the following ignition:
Mallory Promaster Coil #28720 Not the VoltMaster
http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/28675_28720.pdf
MSD Pro Billet (Ready To Run) Distributor # 8360
http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8360_frm%2023793.pdf

8) There is a orange plug that I can't figure out where to connedct. This same plug was on the old harness and the previous owner just had it taped up and hidden with the starter wires. Where should I attach this?
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/orangewire.jpg

Please list the number you are responding to to help keep things organized.

Much thanks to all.

Jim...orange lead is for the heater motor...pain to get at..behind pass.fender well.
Connector on "pink"wires appears to be for GM HEI distributor.Not that I want to see you cut up your new harness...but it will need to go to the "+"
terminal on your ign.coil.

Red lead on "BATT" term of horn relay goes to junction block like you have it...mounting for j/b looks OK...that's where it's located on 66-7 models.
Can you post a pic of the "slinky wire" you mentioned for temp?
Sounds like you are describing a "capillary tube" for a mechanical temp gauge.

Factory style tail lamp sockets shouldn't need a seperate ground wire,should have 2 metal tabs that ground them to the lamp housing.

Ahh, Big Fred to the rescue. Ok the orange goes to the heater huh. That can wait.

So would I connect both pink wires to the plus side of my coil?

One picture of the slinky wire coming up (looks like it connects to the manifold:
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/slinky.jpg

Just removed my dash harness. It is in perfect shape. Guess I didn't need to replace it :-(. I will run on continuity test on it later at work to see if everything works. if so, I will have a perfect M&H dash harness for parts down the road.

Looks like my rear harness (not new) and my engine harness (new M&H) are in great shape too. Looks like I went a little overboard buying new ones. But better to be safe than sorry right? Looks like the reason I was having problems was he ruined the fwd lamp harness and wired the dash harness wrong. oh and he butchered the console harness and bypassed the backup light and neutral safety switch.

Looks like you do not have an electric temperature gauge.

Sorry Fred, Dean you guys responded while I was typing.

Jim

Starting on page 131 and ending on page 167 of that assembly manual (AM) is fairly detailed information on installing the harnesses, including a pretty good wiring diagram.

1- That's pretty close to where the factory installed the J-block.

2-That will work just fine.

3-A nut on the back of the screws will work fine, the connections need to be tight.

4-Yes that goes to the dome light. Should be a male connector with black/orange and black/white wires or orange and white for the dome light.

5- The tail/stop light sockets are designed to ground to the metal tail light reflector. There is two metal tabs on the socket that make contact with the reflector. Use fine sandpaper to clean the hole before installing the socket. If the tail/stop/blinker lights do strange things that's the first place to check.

6-That green wire is for the factory temp gauge. I assume the "slinky type wire" is for an aftermarket temp gauge. For the factory temp gauge you need a temp sender to connect that green wire to. Grounding it on the firewall will cause the temp gauge to peg to the high end of the gauge scale. Page 133 of the AM shows how that wire is routed across the top of the engine to the factory location for the temp sender.

7- That is the connector for an HEI. You can remove the installed terminal/connector and install a ring terminal that will connect to the coil +. The heavy wire is the power from the ignition switch. The smaller wire is probably routed to the starter, I'm pretty sure you don't need it.

8- That wire is for the heater blower motor, unless you have A/C.

Ok some clarification needed.

9) Will I be using both the thin and thick pink wires on the + side of the coil? Or just the thick pink wire?

I was able to install the dash harness (by the light of my lighter). I have 3 wires left over.

10) What does the orange line go to? it looks like it goes to the glove box switch/light, but I bought one of those as well. And the one I bought has more stuff to it.

11) Where does the yellow wire go to?

12) I assume the single red wire is for the cigarette lighter. Is this correct?

13) On the console harness, when I plug in the light green and dark green plug that goes to the reverse light switch on the console, the wires reverse themselves. Is this ok?

Thanks

9- The small pink wire is there to provide full 12V to the original points dist for hotter spark during starting. You probibaly dont need it, however if you do connect it will not cause a problem.

10- Yes it would connect to a switch/light. The harness you purchased is for low end chevelles, 300 models, that didn't have the glove box wiring in the dash harness. You can remove the switch/light from the seperate harness and install it on the existing wire, you can get a switch/light form Year One Ground Up ect. or you can use the seperate harness. Just make sure the existing wire, if unused, is insulated-maybe clip off the terminal.

11- The yellow is power for the radio.

12- Yes the red wire is for the cig lighter.

12- Ltgrn to dkgrn & dkgrn to ltgrn, no problem

I just finished the same thing in my 65. How do you like the M&H harness? I was very happy with mine. While you are at it you might consider some of the upgrades/changes from Madd electrical. Mark of Madd is very helpfull. Its a little extra effort but in the end was worth the trouble. He is also very familiar with a 65's wiring.

Good Luck.

I am going to read the manual and look at the green wire see if I can figure it out.

As for the yellow wire. i will not be needing it now. Would that wire be suitable for say a phone charger or even providing the necessary power for the vintage air system I plan on putting in?

Any idea what type / where I get the light that goes in the switch for the glove box?

One comment on the two pinks on the HEI... one may run off to an electric choke? I kinda doubt that M&H would put a wire from the HEI over to the starter if the regular ignition wire is hot in start.

The glove box light, if it is the same as '68, is available from American Autowire.

Your tail light socket appeared to have a provision for a ground wire in the loop on the bottom of the socket? If so this might be worthwhile to add based on some of the comments about marginal grounding of the sockets.

Regarding the horn relay bus bar, the way you have it will probably work fine. But you could also just put all the wires stacked up on one bolt too.

Sounds like you have most of it pretty well figured out already. The OEM style harnesses really do make it simpler.

One comment on the two pinks on the HEI... one may run off to an electric choke? I kinda doubt that M&H would put a wire from the HEI over to the starter if the regular ignition wire is hot in start.

The glove box light, if it is the same as '68, is available from American Autowire.

Your tail light socket appeared to have a provision for a ground wire in the loop on the bottom of the socket? If so this might be worthwhile to add based on some of the comments about marginal grounding of the sockets.

Regarding the horn relay bus bar, the way you have it will probably work fine. But you could also just put all the wires stacked up on one bolt too.

Sounds like you have most of it pretty well figured out already. The OEM style harnesses really do make it simpler.

Kind of. Since there is no instructions provided and the assembly manual doesn't go into detail. You are kind of on your own. Plus the schematics don't mean didly if the previous owner canged wires. Thank god for this site!

I was thinking the same thing. Run that small pink wire to the electric choke. But I need to know for certain it isn't requied on the coil or somewhere else. There are two wires going to the same place for a reason. They can't both be switched 12 volts. So until I hear otherwise, I am just planning on running bthem both to the + side of the coil and running a seperate wire from the IGN FUSED post on the fusepanel to the electric choke.

OK Jim,

I have a '64 Chevelle, basically same set up/wiring. I also have replaced the engine and forward
lamp harnesses using M&H. I had them wire it up for HEI and electric choke, also.

The green wire is for the factory temp gauge. I am using an aftemarket gauge with the slinky wire
also. I kept the green wire inside the plastic harness holder on the firewall so it's out of the way (NOT grounded).

For the dist. wire mine is a pink wire and a smaller black w/pink stripe wire. If your smaller pink wire
is fairly long with a small ring connector on it, that should go to the starter solenoid small post to
provide 12v to coil while cranking, and there should be another wire to use for the choke in that same
area. If it is not too long (as in it won't reach the starter) and does not have a terminal on the
end, that is most likely for the choke. My choke wire was bare and had to crimp a terminal end on it to connect it
to the choke.

When I installed mine 2 years ago that's how mine was. They may wire it a little different than before, so if
all else fails, call M&H. They'll tell you.

Kind of. Since there is no instructions provided and the assembly manual doesn't go into detail. You are kind of on your own. Plus the schematics don't mean didly if the previous owner canged wires.
Yeah but you should not have this problem anymore since you are replacing with factory style harnesses, right?

I was thinking the same thing. Run that small pink wire to the electric choke. But I need to know for certain it isn't requied on the coil or somewhere else. There are two wires going to the same place for a reason. They can't both be switched 12 volts. So until I hear otherwise, I am just planning on running bthem both to the + side of the coil and running a seperate wire from the IGN FUSED post on the fusepanel to the electric choke.
Don't jump to conclusions too quick... putting two wires into a connector is the favorite method of connecting two wires together. This is in fact exactly how I have wired my HEI and electric choke. With that in mind you should keep both wired together to the coil. One wire may be the switched 12V input and the other switched 12V output so to speak (in computer terms).

Note that when you specify HEI to M&H what they do is instead of running a resistance wire from the bulkhead to the coil, they run a plain wire and put the HEI terminal and housing on the end. This is why we told you to get the HEI harness option: so you would have a plain wire there as your setup requires. It was just a *BONUS* that you also got the HEI terminal too ;)
You might want to check with M&H about electric choke hookup.

Don't jump to conclusions too quick... putting two wires into a connector is the favorite method of connecting two wires together. This is in fact exactly how I have wired my HEI and electric choke. With that in mind you should keep both wired together to the coil. One wire may be the switched 12V input and the other switched 12V output

Ok will do. I felt odd spliting them up. So they will both be run to the + side of the coil.


You might want to check with M&H about electric choke hookup.

No offense, but I've already given them a lot of money for an ok product. I think I can manage running a wire from my fusepanel to the choke.

Well, I am off to go finish the dash harness and wire up the engine harness. For those of you that remember, the starter solenoid is a nightmare to get to, so I will be out there for a while.

No offense, but I've already given them a lot of money for an ok product. I think I can manage running a wire from my fusepanel to the choke.
Actually I was not suggesting sending them more money, just asking them a question. I am sure you can run a wire, but if they already put a wire in there for this purpose you could use it and be much cleaner than adding another wire.

Actually I was not suggesting sending them more money, just asking them a question. I am sure you can run a wire, but if they already put a wire in there for this purpose you could use it and be much cleaner than adding another wire.

Ok I will call them later and see if I can talk to a tech guy there. The person that sold me the products was nice and helpful, just not very knowledgeable.

Ok some more questions:

A) I found a new orange wire on the dash harness. The otherone has a hook on it. I am positive tht that is for the glove box light/switch. but this other orange wire has a single plug on it. Any idea what it is for?
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/orangewire2.jpg

B) The stop light switch that attaches to the brake has two plugs on it. One on the bottom (whitch I connected the plug to) and one on the front. Do I just leave the front blank? Should I tape up those prongs or just leave them alone.
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/stoplight.jpg
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/stoplight2.jpg

C) I can just tape up the green plug on the engine harness right?

D) On my console harness I have what appears to be two sets of wires for lights. One is the grey wire that comes from the steering wheel turnsignal harness. The other is an orange and white wires that end in what appears to be somewhere I either put a light in or a fuse.
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/consolelights.jpg

Getting closer...

Thanks

D) Grey is the color for dash lights, and running into a socket fits that function. I would bet this lights up a shifter on an auto car. The other two look like fuse clips that would go into an unused location in the fuse panel. Those two little tabs on the side of the orange look like spring lock tabs.

C) I think your car has some add-on gauges? You definitely have a mechanical water temp gauge. Do you also have a factory temp gauge or do you have an idiot light? As I think about it, either way on the sensor wire should be ok as it is either downstream of a light bulb or the gauge so there is a natural current limit in place.

B) I would bet that is a non-standard stop light switch and that you should just use the end terminals. The others should be safe left open and were probably cruise control disconnect.

A) Orange is used in a few places. One is power supply to dome lights. Another is power supply to heater. What does your heater circuit look like? Look in particular at the switch and speed control resistor (located on the top of the inside heater housing).

Grey is the color for dash lights, and running into a socket fits that function. I would bet this lights up a shifter on an auto car. The other two look like fuse clips that would go into an unused location in the fuse panel. Those two little tabs on the side of the orange look like spring lock tabs.

They go to the console though. I believe these were the two that touched in the old wiring and shorted out the car.

C) I think your car has some add-on gauges? You definitely have a mechanical water temp gauge. Do you also have a factory temp gauge or do you have an idiot light? As I think about it, either way on the sensor wire should be ok as it is either downstream of a light bulb or the gauge so there is a natural current limit in place.

I have factory SS guages. All are hooked up except oil pressure that goes to an aftermarket guage and temp which as we found out, has nowhere to plug to the block.

B) I would bet that is a non-standard stop light switch and that you should just use the end terminals. The others should be safe left open and were probably cruise control disconnect.

It looks the same as the one in the assembly manual. The dash harness only connects to the lower plug, not the end plug. And that is where the previous guage hooked up.

A) Orange is used in a few places. One is power supply to dome lights. Another is power supply to heater. What does your heater circuit look like? Look in particular at the switch and speed control resistor (located on the top of the inside heater housing).

I have one orange going to the glove box
I have one orange in the engine compartment going to the heater motor in the passenger fender (what a bitch that was)
I have one orange wire (the one in question) that is part of the dash harness and it isn't long enough to reach the heater. It ends right behind the guages.
I have already plugged the multi plug into the heater control and the other one into the heater underneath the glove box.

So the mystery remains where this orange wire goes.

UPDATE: Called M&H. The two purple wires both need to go to the + side of the coil. And found out what that orange wire is for. The clock. Even though the plug doesn't line up. I am sure I can find a use for a constant 12 volts one of these days.

Jim...brake light switch is from a much later GM product.

Jim
Leave the brakeswitch connected the way you have it in your picture. The first set of terminals are for the
brakelights, they are normally open and circuit is closed when you press the brake pedal to power the brakelights.

The two on the end are normally closed and used for cruise controlled cars to break the CC circuit when you
press the brake pedal. If you connect the wires for the brakelights here, the brakelights won't turn OFF till you press
the brake pedal.

http://datapusher.org/chevelle/consolelights.jpg
The orange and white wire I believe is for the courtesy light at the back of the console. Those clips
hold each end of a #211-2 type bulb.
The gray w/socket is for the shifter as steve stated.

For what it's worth.
A- Is probably for the clock.

B- Yes later gm switch. you have it connected correctly. The end, unused terminals, would be for a cruse control as stated.

C- Yes if you don't want to use the factory temp gauge just tape the wire out of the way. You may want to use the factory temp gauge in the future.

D- The gray light is indeed for the shift indicator. You may ask why would it connect to the turn signal connector? On some 65s there is a shift indicator mounted on the steering column, the wire to the light for it was routed alongside the signal harness and plugged into the signal switch connector. The same connection point is used for the floor shift indicator. The orange and white are routed to the rear of the console and are connected to a courtesy light, turns on when the either door is opened or light switch knob is rotated fully clockwise. Don't want to hit a sore spot but page 346 of the asmb. man. may help.

Is there a pink wire at the starter solenoid like the one in this (http://datapusher.org/teamchevelle/Loose-Pink-Wire.jpg) pic from your first thread? If so that is the second.small, wire at the coil.

"As for the yellow wire. i will not be needing it now. Would that wire be suitable for say a phone charger or even providing the necessary power for the vintage air system I plan on putting in?

It will work for a phone chager but not for a vintage air system.

"Your tail light socket appeared to have a provision for a ground wire in the loop on the bottom of the socket? If so this might be worthwhile to add based on some of the comments about marginal grounding of the sockets." vrooom3440

If you are referring to this (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/lmp1.jpg), it's the opening for the fiber optic connection for the lamp monitoring system. I believe that's a standard lamp holder used by M&H for the 60's,70's rear lamp harnesses. I don't think that option was available on 56 Chevelle.

Well an update for all you helpful people and others watching to see what happens.

Rear Harness connected.
Dash Harness connected less glove box switch, clock and stereo.
Front lamp harness connected

What remains to be done, and I hope I can knock it out tommorow is the starter needs to be hooked up. This will be a nightmare! There is no room to work at all because of the headers. Last time it took me hours just to get the pink wire on the sucker.

And I need to put ring connectors on the Coil - hei wires.

I need to put a butt connector on the negative battery cable to the radiator bolts.

I also need to connect the console harness. I am a little concerned though. I hooked up my multimeter and was unable to close the circuit on the neutral safety switch when put in park or neutral. I was also unable to close the circuit on the reverse switch when I put it in reverse.

Don't forget the dome light.

And the ground straps as well. Any idea where these things go?

But unless I am forgetting something, I should be able to get all the wiring done tommorow. Hopefully she will start up and I can do the timing on Saturday. Anyone wanna come over and help with getting the timing down?

"And the ground straps as well. Any idea where these things go?"

The ground straps are for radio noise reduction. Again I'm going to refer you the asmb. man. page 376 shows the V8 right side and left side firewall to valve cover and page 377 shows the right hand inner fender to frame.

"Last time it took me hours just to get the pink wire on the sucker."

Guess this means you do have a pink wire at the starter.

I know it's never been real clear to you as to whether you need that wire or not. If it's that hard to connect to the starter don't use it. Tape it up out of the way at the starter and at the coil. It's not needed.

"And the ground straps as well. Any idea where these things go?"

The ground straps are for radio noise reduction. Again I'm going to refer you the asmb. man. page 376 shows the V8 right side and left side firewall to valve cover and page 377 shows the right hand inner fender to frame.

"Last time it took me hours just to get the pink wire on the sucker."

Guess this means you do have a pink wire at the starter.

I know it's never been real clear to you as to whether you need that wire or not. If it's that hard to connect to the starter don't use it. Tape it up out of the way at the starter and at the coil. It's not needed.

Could you go in to that a little more. You lost me.

"Could you go in to that a little more. You lost me."[b]

I know I'm not the best at explaining things. Hope this helps.

GM installed the ground straps as part of the radio equipment. They ground high frequency signals that cause radio noise. They are installed on each side of the engine and ground the valve covers to the firewall as seen on page 367 of the assembly manual. The third strap is installed on the right hand inner fender to the frame as can be seen on page 377.

Now the small pink wire at the coil/HEI connection. There has been discussion as to exactly what it if for.

[b]” One comment on the two pinks on the HEI... one may run off to an electric choke? I kinda doubt that M&H would put a wire from the HEI over to the starter if the regular ignition wire is hot in start.” Vrooom3440

The original 65 wiring harness had a pink wire from the solenoid to the coil. Its purpose was to provide 12 volts to the coil during cranking/starting for hotter starting spark. The original wire that provides power to the coil is a resistor wire, therefore the coil gets less voltage, around 7 V so 12 volts from the starter to coil resulted in hotter spark during starting.

Your harness has been modified for HEI it doesn’t have the resistor wire. Instead it has the large pink wire that provides 12 volts to the coil all the time. The HEI dist and, as determined in your first post, your coil need full 12V. So the second small pink wire that, if I’m correct, runs from the started to the coil is not needed. Sense access to the starter solenoid is limited connecting the pink wire is a waste of time. Just leave it taped up out of the way at the starter and at the coil.

Elree,
maybe Jim should verify that he has 12 volts in the "start" and "run" position of his ignition switch before abandoning the wire at the solenoid.
what do you think?

david

Now the small pink wire at the coil/HEI connection. There has been discussion as to exactly what it if for.

” One comment on the two pinks on the HEI... one may run off to an electric choke? I kinda doubt that M&H would put a wire from the HEI over to the starter if the regular ignition wire is hot in start.” Vrooom3440

The original 65 wiring harness had a pink wire from the solenoid to the coil. Its purpose was to provide 12 volts to the coil during cranking/starting for hotter starting spark. The original wire that provides power to the coil is a resistor wire, therefore the coil gets less voltage, around 7 V so 12 volts from the starter to coil resulted in hotter spark during starting.

Your harness has been modified for HEI it doesn’t have the resistor wire. Instead it has the large pink wire that provides 12 volts to the coil all the time. The HEI dist and, as determined in your first post, your coil need full 12V. So the second small pink wire that, if I’m correct, runs from the started to the coil is not needed. Sense access to the starter solenoid is limited connecting the pink wire is a waste of time. Just leave it taped up out of the way at the starter and at the coil.

Not that I don't trust you. You all have been very helpful... but it just seams like it should go there. The guy at M&H said that both the pink wires need to be connected to the coil. And if one of them goes to the starter, and needs to be connected to the coil as well, then it just seams to me that it should be hooked up.

If you are right, and I am wrong... hopefully it will not be detrimental to have it hooked up. Anyways, it and the purple one are close together, I'll just put them on on the same time.

Anyone have any commenst on the neutral safety switch and reverse switch I posted above?

Anyways y'all wish me luck. I should be able to finish the wiring today and I hope it fixes the problems from before.

No Fires!

Like someone said before, even if the bypass wire is not really needed, it won't hurt a thing IF it is connected anyway.
BUT IF it is connected at the coil, the other end of THAT wire needs to be either connected to the stater's "R" terminal OR taped up good so it can't short out on anything.

Like someone said before, even if the bypass wire is not really needed, it won't hurt a thing IF it is connected anyway.
BUT IF it is connected at the coil, the other end of THAT wire needs to be either connected to the stater's "R" terminal OR taped up good so it can't short out on anything.

That's the plan. Got them in a rigged ring connector (the best I could do) and going to put them on the coil now. Then put the two wires on the starter.

UPDATE:

Ok got everything electrical connected minus the following things:

Dome Light - not a priority
Light in shift indicator - whenever
Light in console - whenever
Radio - will be left blank - future add on location
Clock - will be left blank - future add on location
Cig Lighter - left blank - future add on location
3 fuses needed for low amp panels

Now I am having some issues that I definately need advice on:

1) Alternator seeams to be angled ever so slightly. I am sure the belt will fly off eventually. Need to somehow brace the back. I have no metalshoip skills so I need a premade back brace. :confused:

2) The power steering pump is only bolted in in one place to what I beleive is the cradle. This is an issue that needs to be resolved immediately. there is no brace on the top. So no matter how tight I make the bolt holding it in, if I push on the belt, the power steering pump comes loose. What do I do? :confused:
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/powersteering.jpg

3) There seems to be a leak in my hose or connector that goes into the bottom connector on my heater. :confused:

As for the power steering pump, I have a 350 with a long water pump if that helps. i have seen some brackets on the web, but not sure if they would fit my setup or not. i really don't care what it looks like at this point as long as it works. I would love to be able to pick one up local and install it then doing mail order and perhaps waiting a long time for a part that does not fit. I have read some of the posts on here... but can't tell which one I need.

I will take more pictures if requested to identify.

I am pretty much ready to start her up and attempt to do the timing, except these 3 things trouble me. I need some advice on what to do. I am so close, but every time I get close, I have to find a fix to something new. What a pain this is going on almost 3 weeks of constant work on her and she is still a bitch. Save me!

Thanks

One last comment on the pink wire. At the end of my last response I had the following comment, that I chose to delete.

Since you gave M&H a fist full of money, maybe contact them for their input on the pink wire.

If they say it needs to be connected then of course follow their advise.

If you are curious, like I am, you might try leaving it off at the coil just to know for sure if it needs to be there. That is some time down the road when all of the current issues have been addressed and corrected. However if you don't want to beat this horse any more I understand.

"I also need to connect the console harness. I am a little concerned though. I hooked up my multimeter and was unable to close the circuit on the neutral safety switch when put in park or neutral. I was also unable to close the circuit on the reverse switch when I put it in reverse."

The is a small amount of adjustment, and make sure the switch tab is moving with the shifter. There should be a metal tab in a slot that moves the switch, Here's a pic (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/nsbusw.JPG) If the contacts don't close as you move the shifter from park to low, chances are the switch is bad. They are not hard to open up for possible repair. New switches are available but not cheep, around $50,00.

You can put a jumper wire in place the neutral switch for starting until a replacement switch can be found found.

New information. While looking at your photos. I see that you have a B&M ratchet shifter. So disregard the previous info on the neutral switch.

One thing I can tell you is that the micro switch on the shifter is not robust enough to handle the current of the start circuit. That may be why it doesn't close. If it was used as a neut start switch for any length of time the contacts are likely burned beyond use. Replacement switches should be relatively cheep.

If you want a reliable start circuit using that switch you should use an interposing relay. That is operate a relay using the switch on the shifter, connect the start circuit to the contacts of the relay. If there are two switches on the shifter the other can be used for the backup lights without a relay. This is based on my experience with a star shifter equipped with the same micro switches.

Here's a PDF (http://www.bmracing.com/media/products/pdf/7.pdf) file that may help.

Well how boutan update for the peeps!

I walked down to AutoZone and picked up some fuses. came back and put them in. keep in mind it was pitch dark out so I could only observe so much from the light of my bic. I found out the following:

Glove Box Light Works!
Headlights work!
Dimmer Switch by foot for brights Works!
Brake Lights Work!
Got the neutral safety switch to work!
Starter Works!
It no longer blows fuses (but I fixed that on the old harness as well)
I can turn the car over with th key now. no need for the push button start. gee it's almost like a real car now. Too bad the sucker won't idle.

Here is what does not work:

Reverse Lights do not work/burned out perhaps

1 - Dash lights kind of work. I can see a faint light behind the speedo. However if I turn my light switch all the way to the click (where on a modern car it would turn the dome on) the dash lights come on. I found that wierd. Is there a crossed connection somewhere? Shouldn't they come on when the lights are on, ad the switch should act like a dimmer? Any ideas here?

2 - I think the heater is stuck on. I hear a wirring of something in that location when I turn the key to the on position. The far left lever is broken on the heater controls. I manually pulled the cable however and it still makes that noise. Any ideas here?

there was a weird smell in the car when they key is on. Not sure if it was a burning electrical smell. But I would like to think it was coming from the heater. but I am not used to the nuances of older cars. I guess I will find out more in the morning.

3 -Still looking for info on the alternator rear bracket.

4 - Still looking for info on the top mounting bracket for the power steering pump. I have read quite a few posts on the site, but am unsure which mount I need for my car/engine combo. Any guidence/discussion would be greatly appreciated.

Got to figure out that leaking hose problem tomorow.

That is all I can recall right now.

UPDATE:

Ok got everything electrical connected minus the following things:

Dome Light - not a priority
Light in shift indicator - whenever
Light in console - whenever
Radio - will be left blank - future add on location
Clock - will be left blank - future add on location
Cig Lighter - left blank - future add on location
3 fuses needed for low amp panels
Be sure to tape any bare connectors, ie bare console light leads.


Now I am having some issues that I definately need advice on:

2) The power steering pump is only bolted in in one place to what I beleive is the cradle. This is an issue that needs to be resolved immediately. there is no brace on the top. So no matter how tight I make the bolt holding it in, if I push on the belt, the power steering pump comes loose. What do I do? :confused:
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/powersteering.jpg


Here's some pictures of what I had to do on my '64 . . .
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/Alternator_PS_bracket.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/PS_Bracket_2.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/PS_Bracket_3.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/PS_Bracket_4.jpg

I realize this is a different bracket bent to work here, but if nothing
pans out you might use these pics to have one made. ( oh, and I
have a short water pump )



The p/s pump problem lies with having headers. There is a bracket that looks like this . . .
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/PS_Bracket.jpg

But this bolts to another bracket that mounts the alternator on the driver side
that you can kinda see here W/O the p/s bracket shown in the
previous picture. . .
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/Alternator_PS_bracket. (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/../showroom/data/500/Alternator_PS_bracket.jpg)
BUT, even then, the slotted adjusting part of the bracket ends up being
1" above the mounting bolt on the p/s pump! :(

There are options such as March, but that gets pricey. You might do a search to find what
others have done. Since you have the long pump you might be able to use later model brackets.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145131&highlight=power+steering+brackets
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131932&highlight=p%2Fs+pump+bracket
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146597&highlight=p%2Fs+pump+bracket



As far as the heater blower motor being on, the lever that is broken is most likely the one that moves the switch
that is actually mounted on the back of the heater control panel ( the part that the levers slide up and down on).
You can most likely reach/feel under the dash behind it for the lever of the switch and move it into the
off position.

Heater control
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/Heater_control.jpg

Side shot showing lever and switch
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/heater_control2.jpg

Lever/switch in ON position ( heater fan blowing )
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/heater_control3.jpg

Lever/switch in OFF position ( heater fan stopped )
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/heater_control4.jpg


WOW, sorry so long. I guess I got carried away! :clonk:

Jim..any wrecking yards around?Might be an idea to browse for necessary brackets.

Jim..any wrecking yards around?Might be an idea to browse for necessary brackets.

I will definately be hitting the junk yards and pick-a-parts when I can drive again. but they are all too far away to go on the bus.

Well Here is what works now:
Headlights
Brights
Tail Lights
Reverse Lights
Turn Signals
Glove Box Light
Neutral Safety Switch
Reverse Switch
Turn Signal Indicators
With Alternator hooked up the battery reads 14.06

Here is what still is bugging me:
Dash Lights will not turn on unless dial is switched all the way to the left and clicks. This is the same thing in a modern car which would turn the dome lights on. I can't figure out why they don't work. There is however a faint light behind the speedometer at all times with lights on. Any idea why this is?

After figuring out that, i can put the dash back in and be pretty much done with the electrical for a while. All that is not working now is not critical at this stage.

The guages all seem to need to be replaced, so I might as well just upgrade to Dakota Digital and have all new guages with easy to read specs.

So how about helping me work out this dash light problem so we can put this thread to rest for a while.

Oh and not sure if this helps but:

Both tail lights work
Both Brake Light/Turn signals work
One reverse light works, the other bulb I can't get to from a stripped screw.
One liscence plate light works, the other needs a new bulb.
The parking lights on the front are not installed.

Thanks guys as always

Well...with as much other stuff thats been messed with on your car...I don't suppose the dome light gets brighter/dimmer when your turning the switch.
Feed wires to dome lamp/dash lights reversed??Maybe incorrect h/light switch??
Delco/GM switch should be marked with a three digit #(last three of part
number)...I.E. 1995122(switch marked 122) which,by the way,is the OE switch for '64-'66.Take a peek and see what it says....errr..shows!

I never installed the dome light, so I do not know.

All the wires and harnesses except the body harness (flat ribbon cable) and the turn signal harness are brand new. So I don't see how they could be switched.

As for the light switch, it seams to be the one that I need. At least it matches up to the plug M&H provided just fine.

Jim...edited my post....re-read.:)

Well...with as much other stuff thats been messed with on your car...I don't suppose the dome light gets brighter/dimmer when your turning the switch.
Feed wires to dome lamp/dash lights reversed??Maybe incorrect h/light switch??
Delco/GM switch should be marked with a three digit #(last three of part
number)...I.E. 1995122(switch marked 122) which,by the way,is the OE switch for '64-'66.Take a peek and see what it says....errr..shows!

Umm We are talking about the headlight switch right?

I took it out and can't find any writing on it except the prong numbers for the connector and that it was assembled in meh-hi-coe.

Also, I found this little spring thing and don't know if is for anything.
http://datapusher.org/chevelle/light_switch.jpg

Jim....make sure the dash panel is grounded and try again.
I mean try the dash lights again...not re-reading the switch #:p

.....well...it would be safe to assume the switch has been replaced.
And if the dash isn't grounded now...tell it..in harsh terms...that it will be if it doesn't shape up!:D
The gizzy wit'da spring is the release for the "on/off" stem.Push it in and the stem will come out.

Will go ground it now. Also, the switch is identicle to the picture on the OPG website for "1964-77 HEADLIGHT SWITCH".

Also, does that spring 3 posts above have anything to do with this?

No...it do not. See above.
....and "TAG"! You're it!

Ok, my bezel is not in. Much easier access and I don't want to put it in till I get this electrical wrapped up so to speak.

But I grounded the metal on the instrument panel to the dash. i also alligator clipped the metal on the light switch to the dash as well. no dice.

However I noticed something. One of the plugs on the switch is not used. It is just a blank spot on the harness. I tried to ground it to the dash, but sparks o plenty. i will have to wait till tommorow morning when I can see to mess with it further. If you look at my old schematic that I colored in, you will see that it was empty on the old harness as well. From what I can see, it goes to the left door switch, dome light and it would go to the courtesy light if I had a convertable. But the missing wire is by M&H's design.

Tag!

Just to add that the headlight switch/stem has to be pulled out for the dash lights to work...and for the brighter/dimmer to work... brighter to the left and dimmer to the right. I believe my interior console and underdash lights are always fully bright. My car is a convertible so it dont have a dome light.

A little credit please ;-)

Yeah I figured the lights would have to be on for the dash light to work.

Interesting, so counter clockwise to make brighter. That is reverse what I am used to. That would explain why when i go full over to the left, the lights turn on.

But I have no dimming abilities. It is either full on or full off. And once the dome light is hooked up, I can't really see me driving with the dome on at night.

On a side note, whenevver I look at your car and see the license plate blurred out... I wonder if it is actually LKNBCK.

The headlight switch needs to be grounded for one reason only, it grounds the dome/courtesy circuit when the switch is rotated CCW. All other functions of the headlight switch are independent of the ground and will be fully functional with or with out a ground.

The problem is not with the wiring it is typical of an old switch. Look at this (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/hlsw5.JPG) switch. It is from a 67 but should be the same as your 65. The dash light circuit does have a dimming function. You can see the resistor/rheostat that varies the resistance of the dash light circuit. In the pic B is the wiper for the circuit. C is where the wiper makes contact with the stationary conductor. When the wiper if fully CW the dash lights will be very dim or off. When rotated almost fully CCW the wiper makes contact with the 12V supply end of the resistor, in this position the dash lights will be their brightest. Either the wiper is not making good contact with the resistor or the C connection is not making good contact. Install a new switch and your dash lights should dim as you rotate the knob.

A is the dome/courtesy light ground, when rotated fully CCW the metal tab that runs under the plastic cam is pushed so that it makes contact with ground if the switch is grounded.

The 67 switch is beside a 70 switch. It's hard to see but D points to terminal 7 on the 67 switch that is not on the 70 switch. This is the connection for the forward park lights. On 65 through 67 the park lights are on only when the switch knob is pulled half way out, they are off when the knob is pulled all the way out. Starting in 68 the front park/driving lights and rear tail lights are on the same circuit. So if you see a switch listed as 64 -77 it is not correct 64-67 would be correct as they are the same, 68 to 77 is the same switch.

Do you have under dash lights? Is that what we are talking about... or are we talking about the gauge pod lights? All-All the way to the left of course both will be on all the way bright with the stem pulled all the way out.

Also with the lights on...the little light you mentioned earlier behind the speedo could be that your highbeams could be on?

10-4 on the LKN BCK...camera flash blanked it out.

As for the credit due...you have learned more in the short time you have owned your car than most will ever learn when it comes to the wiring...not to mention, you are helping others learn also including me! Just trying add something that may help you.

No under dash lights. Just a dome light eventually. I am refering to the guage pod lights.

As for the speedo light, never thought of that. Makes sense.

"Do you have under dash lights?" LNK BCK

I think you mean courtesy lights right? That would be the Courtesy Harness Dash Light - 07580 you purchased. If you didn't have them in your car you will need the metal lamp holders.

"Do you have under dash lights?" LNK BCK

I think you mean courtesy lights right? That would be the Courtesy Harness Dash Light - 07580 you purchased. If you didn't have them in your car you will need the metal lamp holders.

Yes

Update:

Since I hate threads that last forever and then when you get to the end, the original poster never comes back with an update... it's like paying to go see a movie and the projector craps out in the last 10 minutes.

I finally was able to go down to OPG.

I picked up a new headlight switch and popped it in.

WORKS LIKE A DREAM! I now have dimming abilities and don't have to click the switch all the way over to get my lights on. So thanks for the suggestion guys.
Now that my dome light won't be on the whole time since that problem is resolved, I have a new issue...

How the hell do I install the dome light housing and run the wiring to the trunk without removing the headliner?