Do The Paint Pros. See Anything Wrong With This Plan ?? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Do The Paint Pros. See Anything Wrong With This Plan ??


ElCamino68Elky
Feb 3rd, 05, 7:49 PM
I am going to strip my 68 El Camino to bare metal with either the (low odor) aircraft stripper,the Por-Stripper or the Jasco premium (gold can with Genie on it) from Home Depot. I have stripped 2 other Chevelles a few years ago ,once using Aircraft Stripper, and the most recent using the Por-Stripper. I had good results with both of them. I have never used the Jasco from Home Depot though,has anyone used this with good results ?? Next after stripping the entire car to bare metal and after neutralizing any stripper residue by going over the car with a water hose and a scotch brite pad or whatever the directions on the can of stripper says how to neutralize. Next I wanted to Epoxy Prime with PPG,s DPLF-90 (Black) ,then use Urethane Primer-Surfacer no.# NCP 271 , to do the block sanding with,also while block sanding I will use a spray can of contrasting color (gray) as a Guide Coat. After all block sanding is done and car is washed off and dryed off and masked up I will give it a wipe down with PPG wax and grease remover to remove any contaminats,then use a tack rag over entire car. Then I wanted to use Basecoat DBC because the reducer is the same for that as it is for the clear. After shooting 2 or 3 coats of Basecoat or whatever it takes to cover good,then I was going to use the DCU 2021 Clear . I wanted to spray 4 coats of that clear on it so that after all the color sanding and machine buffing I would have a good 2 coats on it left to protect. This will be used as my Daily Driver year round,so I thought that this was a good plan to keep put a good finish on it and keep it looking good for years to come. It needs stripped to bare metal because it got some crazing in the primer now and just has too many different coats of stuff on it and besides after having stripped a few cars to bare metal before Im throughly convinced thats the only way to go because you really get to know every bit of the car and know for sure just whats there. I got prices for all the stripper,primers,reducers,activators, basecoat and clear (everything in PPG with the exception of the stripper) and it totaled out to be around $1,100.00 to 1,250.00 depending on what color I picked. Thats alot more than I spent 4 years ago on a total repaint in basecoat/clearcoat. I wonder if the same products in Dupont would be much cheaper ?? I dont want to go single stage because there wont be any clear to help protect the finish. I think Basecoat/Clearcoat is the way to go after having used this system before and having good results. What do you all think ?? Mark ----------------------------------------------------------------------------1968 Chevelle Malibu (Weekend Cruiser) 1968 El Camino (Daily Driver)

storm
Feb 3rd, 05, 8:05 PM
stay away from home depot stripper and are you forgetting the bodywork ? there has to be something that has to be taken care of before the painting . storm

ElCamino68Elky
Feb 3rd, 05, 8:24 PM
Storm, I was going to shoot the Epoxy Primer DPLF-90 on and then fill in any dings with a good filler or USC'S Icing , and when the cars stripped down and if there happens to be any bodywork to be done (such as dents or small section that might need a piece of metal mig welded in) I would do it first before shooting Epoxy Primer on it. But just for small dings through-out the car I thought I would fill them in as described above after shooting the Epoxy Primer and after dings are smoothed and leveled I could just shoot over those spots only with Epoxy Primer before using the Urethane Primer Surfacer NCP 271 . Am I right in that procedure guys ?? Mark

storm
Feb 3rd, 05, 9:05 PM
im not to sure about ppg products as i use dupont in the shop but after its stripped i would use a self etching primer first then do the bodywork, etc. then give it a few coats of uretnane primer then start blocking it out.

sevt_chevelle
Feb 3rd, 05, 9:31 PM
Try PPG's EPX900 epoxy instead of that DPLF. Its their industrial line of epoxy. I have not used it but have heard good things about it.
Baddbob a member of the board has used this product.

Once the car is stripped of paint via chemical stipper, wash it with water and scrub the entire surface with a scuff pad.
Any remaining bits of paint need to be sanded and REWASHED with water. If you dont rewash you run the risk of leaving behind a residue.

Dry the car, then sand it with 80 grit and then prime with epoxy.

Do your filler work over the epoxy. I like to give the epoxy a very lsight scuffing with 180 grit prior to appling filler. Once the filler is done apply 1 coat of epoxy over any bare metal spots, then prime with your NCP271.

4coats of 2021 is a tad much IMO. With 4 coats you are putting on alot of product that could lead to solvent trapping, which could result in solvent popping and or dye back(loss of gloss)
The most I would go is 3 coats.
3 coats of clear will bury a tape line left behind like those found on the 70-2 SS stripes.

Personally I prefer the 2055 over 2021. To me is sprays nicer and has a deeper look, which is fact, its the second deepest clear in the PPG line behind DC3000. But DC3000 is a 3-4 panel clear only NOT meant for a complete.

Plan on spraying alteast 3 coats of base probably 4 depending on color.