I am going down to M&H and OPG tommorow. I need some parts. However, I am not sure what I need.

First off, my steering wheel is not stock, it is a GT type. The turn signal lever is missing. So I of course want a new one. However, I am not sure if I have tilt or not. Is there an easy way to tell?

Second... I don't see any place for a hazard button. How do I know if I should have one or not?

Third, I think I am missing a power steering bracket. The upper piece is what I believe I need. Right now it is just tied in on the bottom mount. It is on a 350 with a long water pump. On the drivers side. here is a picture:
http://datapusher.org/teamchevelle/powersteering.jpg

Thanks all

Tilt wheels have a lever very similar to the turn signal stalk except its shorter and closer to the dash. Pull it towards you and the tilt wheel will raise up if its down. The turn signal lever is very easy to install with the stg wheel off. One screw and its installed. I had to do it on mine.

There is no lever there to test with, just an open whole

there would be 2 holes on a tilt column

After reading all of you're posts, I would contentrate on the electrical issues. Then check all the basics. Check valves for proper adjustment. Find top dead center Check the mechanicl and vacuum advance for any odvious damage. Drop in the distributor. And then try to fire it up. Set the timing. get it to idle even if it means find vacuum leaks or adjust the floats and fix them. Ya know Get back to basics.
After that then we worry about the cooling trouble or not then the charging system.
Then you start to about Steering wheels and amenities. Seat belts etc.

And that is the order of wich I would do it
But first as I have mentioned I would get it to stop catching on Fire.. So for now just try to replace the front wiring harness as well as under the dash. And go at least get the batt, starter and altenator as well as regulator tested at Pep Boys or Kragen. If they cant check reg then buy a new one A new Delco if possible check the chevy dealers sometimes they will suprize you. And IMO a new brand name is always the right choice, That goes for starters and alt's.
Try that and let me know. Good luck!!!!!!!!!
Mike

After reading all of you're posts, I would contentrate on the electrical issues. Then check all the basics. Check valves for proper adjustment. Find top dead center Check the mechanicl and vacuum advance for any odvious damage. Drop in the distributor. And then try to fire it up. Set the timing. get it to idle even if it means find vacuum leaks or adjust the floats and fix them. Ya know Get back to basics.
After that then we worry about the cooling trouble or not then the charging system.
Then you start to about Steering wheels and amenities. Seat belts etc.

And that is the order of wich I would do it
But first as I have mentioned I would get it to stop catching on Fire.. So for now just try to replace the front wiring harness as well as under the dash. And go at least get the batt, starter and altenator as well as regulator tested at Pep Boys or Kragen. If they cant check reg then buy a new one A new Delco if possible check the chevy dealers sometimes they will suprize you. And IMO a new brand name is always the right choice, That goes for starters and alt's.
Try that and let me know. Good luck!!!!!!!!!
Mike

DGWAR, thanks. Wasn't sure if it had two holes or if the turn signal lever also operated the tilt as well.

Chevy fan attic, I decided to swap out all the electrical and start from scratch. I want to replace the turn signal lever as part of that. When I hook up all the new harnesses, I want to make sure everything works. I could care less how it looks now. Just want to verify that everything works after I do the rewire.

The regulator is not the issue. I switched over to an internally regulated SI, so the reg is out of the picture.

As for finding top dead center, I think I am going to do the piston stop to find it. There is a tab marker by the balancer, but I don't trust anything on this car from before I fix it. So I am going to make sure TDC is where he says it is.

Speaking of which... anyone near here have a Piston Stop I can borrow?

Anyways, tommorow afternoon I get my Harnesses so the electrical should be perfect soon..

Sorry I do not owne one. Did you change the wiring for the internal regulator?

No, he an an external regulating alternator installed. But he had removed the external regulator and ran a switched 12 volt wire from the fuse panel to the alternator. Since there was no external regulator, I just took the logical step of installing an internal SI alternator and running the wires correctly.

No your column is not a tilt and 65 doesn't have emerg flashers (hazard button).

When you get your new harness, will it be a direct replacement? If so, two short jumper wires to alternating terminals (1 to 3, 2 to 4) on the regulator connector will permit you to use the original wires for your internally regulated 7127 style alternator. Just put a newer style (flat side by side) plug on them. In fact, the stator wire (white?) can go directly from the alt terminal to the batt terminal on the alt with the field wire (blue or green?) to the field side of the flat connector.

If using an aftermarket harness, they may have it available for either alt or will customize it for you.

To find TDC, remove the #1 plug (preferably remove all, much easier to turn engine by hand), plug #1 hole with your finger, turn engine by hand (socket on large balancer bolt) until compression stroke (blows finger out), then slowly turn until TDC is indicated on tab. Insert the eraser end of a pencil, as to touch the top of the piston. Turn crank backwards a couple of degrees. You should feel the piston go down (with the pencil). Turn the crank normally, but very slowly, the piston will rise, then lower. Note the tab position at the first noticeable downward motion in both directions of rotation.

If you can't detect the absolute top of it's stroke, then use the middle of the downward positions, this should put you within a degree or so. Good enough to use as a reference to drop your distributor. You'll probably find your tab to be accurate anyway.

Refresh my memory on the fire issue. Was this smoking wires? Or a fuel fire? Or what?

When you get your new harness, will it be a direct replacement?

No, it is from M&H. It is their OE front lamp harness modified to fir the internal SI regulator.

To find TDC, remove the #1 plug (preferably remove all, much easier to turn engine by hand), plug #1 hole with your finger, turn engine by hand (socket on large balancer bolt) until compression stroke (blows finger out), then slowly turn until TDC is indicated on tab. Insert the eraser end of a pencil, as to touch the top of the piston. Turn crank backwards a couple of degrees. You should feel the piston go down (with the pencil). Turn the crank normally, but very slowly, the piston will rise, then lower. Note the tab position at the first noticeable downward motion in both directions of rotation.

If you can't detect the absolute top of it's stroke, then use the middle of the downward positions, this should put you within a degree or so. Good enough to use as a reference to drop your distributor. You'll probably find your tab to be accurate anyway.
I will try that tommorow.


Refresh my memory on the fire issue. Was this smoking wires? Or a fuel fire? Or what?
3 fires. First one was when I got the car. From the center console wires that he had rigged up. They smoked out the car and shorted it out.

Second fire was a gasoline fire on the carb from a backfire out of the carb. From the response I got on here, it looks to possible be the timing.

Third was the brown wire from the alternator to the bulkhead connector. The whole wire melted and caught fire.

I compleatly agree with Rowdy.

Datapusher, you have a pm

Here's a link to a valve adjustment procedure you can try after you find TDC.
http://www.chevythunder.net/showthread.php?t=446