Ok, I searched the archives high and low, but found nothing.

are there any adjustments for the door jamb switches?

Here is the story. When my car was in the body shop we put a used door on it. Now the jamb switch does not even come close to tripping.

Are there two different lengths for the passenger side door? I noticed they sell two different ones in the "Ground Up" catalog. Any info is appreciated.

They don't adjust, all they do is screw into the door jamb. Those switches are all the same for the Chevelles. Do you think it's possible that it may have been changed down the line with one from another car, say a G body or a generic auto parts store replacement? Also, make sure the door is aligned properly. If it's sagging or not far enough forward, it may not contact the switch.

Some of the GM door switches were self adjusting. The nut is a collar that the center portion is snuggly fitted into. A new one may stick out too far but once the door is closed the center portion slides inward to self adjust. If the collar does not fit snug onto the center portion when the door is closed the center can slide in too far and not allow the switch to work properly.
Jim

As I remember Jim is right, they "self adjust". The center of it is a tube that slides within the "nut" that you screw into jamb. You can pull that tube out and then shut the door and it will push it back in to the proper height. If it is too loose, the resistance from the spring will allow it to be pushed in too far though.

As I remember that is how it works. There are "pin switches" that also adjust by simply how much you screw it in the hole.

In the olden-golden days of collision repair we used to clamp on the floating part of the pin with a pliers, and give it a firm pull.
This will pull the tube part thru the base nut. Then very gently, with the pliers crimp the tube slightly, just enough to make it more difficult for the tube to slide into the base nut, but not so much as to prevent the pins' travel in the tube. Close the door, it should reset itself into the base nut just enough to allow its proper function.

Good luck!
Karl

Regarding this subject does anyone know the part numbers for the door jamb switches? I canot find the part number in the 1970 assy manual although there is a picture of it. I broke off one of the prongs on my driver side switch which is two-pronged vs the passenger side switch which is single-pronged.

GMPARTS direct.com shows part number 14014578 (Lamp & Door Ajar SW), although I cannot tell whether it is single-pronged or double-pronged.

ttt

Originally posted by Super70:
I broke off one of the prongs on my driver side switch which is two-pronged vs the passenger side switch which is single-pronged.

GMPARTS direct.com shows part number 14014578 (Lamp & Door Ajar SW), although I cannot tell whether it is single-pronged or double-pronged. Chances are if it calls out Lamp and door ajar then it is a two terminal switch.
Just by chance do you have an Autozone close by ?. Sometimes when I am installing security systems and the factory door switches are questionable I have had good luck with Autozone having the right replacements in stock. I have never looked at them closely to see if they are an exact match but you may want to check them out.
Jim

Just looked in my parts bin and I had a dual terminal GM pin switch and it is from Wells Mfg. Corp. Part # SW108 (this one came from Autozone).
The nut does spin on the barrel and right now in the fully extended out position the measurment is 3/4" from the face of the nut to the end of the switch and it looks like the tube can slide into the nut and give it 1/4" space between the face of the nut and the end of the switch. This one also has two 0.205" terminals seperated by a milky white plastic ring with a seperating tab also out of plastic between the two terminals. If I had my camera here at work I would take a picture for you.
Jim

Thanks Jim Streib - I appreciate your willingness to check this out. I may take a chance with the gmpartsdirect switch ($3.08) and I will also go over to the local Autozone and look at the SW108 you spoke of. I will compare with my broken switch.

The new one's are a "one size fits all" deal. They come out of the box extra long, and have a built in adjustment. Thread them into the post, and gently/slowly close the door to the 1st click. Then re-open the door a few inches and give it a "regular" bump to fully latch it. This will adjust the switch correctly (so the dome light comes on when the door is on the 1st click and not fully latched).

Like Karl said, you can sometimes salvage a used switch by pulling the "guts/plunger" back out. Just be careful not to collapse the sleeve.
(Did tons of these doing car alarm installs)