Does anybody have any experience with this product? Ive been sand blasting the inside of my car because there was surface rust everywhere with some minor pitting.Thought i would use the rust encapsulator like a primer on the bare metal and other places that i could'nt get too since i already have it ,or would it just be best to get some self etch primer to keep the rust from coming back? thanks

I emailed eastwood about the rust encapsulator becuase I was planning on using it in the inside of my car also,area's that I had down to bare metal,roof,floor etc,they said it won't work on bare metal, must be applied over the rust, so I just went and got a red oxide primer and sprayed it.

Is that their Coroless product? If so, I am more pleased with it that POR. It's a red oxide primer, easy to apply compared to the POR. and then use a chassis black. Nice finish. Has held up very well for the last 5 years.

The also have it in black. I have used it and zerorust to compare. I think the Eastwoods appears to be thicker but goes on smoother if that makes any sense. Something else that is nice is they have it in aresol cans.

Originally posted by chevl71:
Is that their Coroless product? If so, I am more pleased with it that POR. It's a red oxide primer, easy to apply compared to the POR. and then use a chassis black. Nice finish. Has held up very well for the last 5 years. Did you apply it over bare or rusted metal?

After reading the post from 72Chevelle about Eastwood co. paint, I went to there web site and no where could I find where it says it will not work on bare metal. I do not think POR will adhere very well on bare metal unless it has been etched. I plan on using Eastwood paint because I believe it will work as well as POR for half the cost. JMOP

Originally posted by TAGMAN444:
After reading the post from 72Chevelle about Eastwood co. paint, I went to there web site and no where could I find where it says it will not work on bare metal. I do not think POR will adhere very well on bare metal unless it has been etched. I plan on using Eastwood paint because I believe it will work as well as POR for half the cost. JMOP I didn't see anything on their website either about applying it to bare metal, but when I emailed them they said it will only stick to rust. I still might get a small can and see how it works.

Well this weekend i decided to give it a test, since i had already bought some.After I sandblasted the inside of my car I sprayed a spot on bare metal and after it dried it was hard to sand off so it seemed to adhere to bare metal very well.It seems to be the same as etch primer but thicker,keeping in mind that my metal was rough after blasting so i dont know what it would do on slick metal but i liked it for what i needed because its hard to get all the rust out.

I sand blasted my entire frame and covered it with rust encapsulator. No problems yet....

I applied the Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator (used to be called Corroless) over fairly clean metal. I scraped the undercoating and there was some factory paint still there. This product was not the mess and excessive prep as was the POR. Then I used the Eastwoods chassis black.
As Deon said it is now available in black. The Eastwoods catalog states to wire brush to remove loose particles then apply.
I'll use it again.

The acid etching primer, I think, is the best way to do the inside of the car, since it shouldn't be getting wet. The etching primer is reduced with acid which etches into the medal. Then top coat it with a semi-gloss dark gray enamel. That is the color it was from the factory. I did my 68 this way and it came out great. I wouldn't do it any other way in the future.

Originally posted by chevl71:
I applied the Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator (used to be called Corroless) over fairly clean metal. I scraped the undercoating and there was some factory paint still there. This product was not the mess and excessive prep as was the POR. Then I used the Eastwoods chassis black.
As Deon said it is now available in black. The Eastwoods catalog states to wire brush to remove loose particles then apply.
I'll use it again. A lot of people prefer it over Por for its ease of use, the cost, and the fact that it is not UV sensitive. I plan on giving it a try on my frame.

I have used a ton of this stuff. I have done 2 cars with it thus far. My 69 is pretty much coated top to bottom with it except the outside sheetmetal and it looks great with the right paint over it on each individual component. I'll be using it all over my 69 Charger when I start building it graemlins/thumbsup.gif .