I'm about to begin a restoration project (my first) on a '71 convertible Chevelle. As it has been sitting for a long time, the floor is in rough shape. I'm hoping some of the "been there, done that" group could offer some advise on staying out of trouble, or suggest some good reference material. I understand there can be serious problems if the floor is opened up too much and the box frame shifts. So, any advise ???

As I understand it, you're going to replace the floorboareds with the body on the frame. Correct? If so, no problems with cutting out the old floors with the body on the frame.
Get your new floor boards out, decide how much you need, and cut the old floors out leaving enough (1/2") edge to weld the new floors to.

I replaced the floor in my 65 convertible. I cut out the old and welded in the new before removing the body from the frame. Replacing the braces and welding the floors from the bottom side would have been realy difficult with the body still on the frame. I built a rotator, braced it all up and never looked back. Pics on my site.

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http://webpages.charter.net/65chevelle/

What do you do when that edge is rusted away http://www.chevelles.com/forum/eek.gif? My pans are rusted right up to the kick panel metal, but there's still some material to the front and by the tranny tunnel.
http://www.dreamelectric.com/images/scan6.jpg (that's the top of the frame rail you see near the center of the pic)
http://www.dreamelectric.com/images/scan7.jpg
Scary! LH side of the car is worse than the RH.

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1970 Chevy Custom El Camino (http://www.dreamelectric.com)
Originally was & will be Green Mist & Silver w/Green Vinyl Top (now black)
350ci/300HP 4bbl & Dual Exhaust
TH-350 - 2.73 Posi Rear - Factory PS, PDB, PW, Tilt, A/C & More
My El Camino Home Page (http://www.dreamelectric.com/index.html)
Other Restorations -1969 Snowco Trailer (http://www.dreamelectric.com/Snowco.html) & 1967 Sears Custom 600 Tractor (http://www.dreamelectric.com/1967Sears.html)
Team Chevelle Member #995

Shawn, did you pull that car out of the ocean? My God man! Are those real pictures of your car or are they taken from the Titanic? That's some serious rust!!! Are you sure there's still a car left? http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif You're just going to have to fabricate what you can't buy. You have a lot of rust removal and treatment ahaead of you. Maybe you could ship the whole car to Por-15 and have them dip it at the factory. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif

[This message has been edited by Jimmy P (edited 01-23-2002).]

[This message has been edited by Jimmy P (edited 01-23-2002).]

SHAWN, I noticed your pictures says it was built on nov 25th. isn't that thanks giving? wouldn't the plant have been closed for the holiday? not trying to be a smart ass just curious. good luck on that one. i have cut up better cars. you will need to buy a sheet of steel and do some fabricating in order to bring the material out from good the good steel (if there is any). then you will have a solid edge to weld to.

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1970 Chevelle 454 Wagons haul A$$ in style! "The Chopped Suburban". to see some goto
www.EINSTYN.com (http://www.EINSTYN.com) FO_FDYFO = four-fifty four! TC#1460, VCEA#2

[This message has been edited by FO_FDYFO (edited 01-23-2002).]

Before you cut anything, make absolutely sure you know what's under the area you're about to cut. There are braces under there, and under the passenger seat pans you'll notice that the body is very close to the frame. You don't want to cut the frame by accident.

FO_FDYFO: It says the 25th of November on the build sheet, and that fell on a Tuesday. Cowl tag reads 11D but the door sticker says 12-69. I don't think Thanksgiving is always on the 25th(?)

Thanks for the advise everyone.
To Jimmy P. - yes, we are trying this with the frame on. I don't think I'm prepared to do a frame off, although that might be best. Some once advised me to weld a 3 inch pipe in place of the doors to prevent the body from flexing and creating alignment problems. Ever hear of that before?
Now let me show my ignorance by asking what this POR15 stuff is ? And does it really work for you guys ?
-john

POR-15 is a rust preventive paint. As far as I know it can only be applied with a brush. It will stop rust if its there but those floor boards are pretty shot.

Just sand down the area you want to paint real well. degrease and clean thoughly then dry. After that just paint it on. Thats how I've done it but I'm sure someone knows better than i would. Good luck I'm just about to try this myself…

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1970 chevelle
406 - TH-350 - soon to be 411's
engine (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/engine.jpg)
Interior (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/interior.jpg)

"I didn't get pulled over for going over the speed limit, i got pulled over for getting there faster than anyone else"

I've heard of the pipe trick on a convertible body when it's off the frame. You'll be fine W/O it.

POR-15 is not a paint, although it is applied like a paint. It adhreres to rust and convrts/seals it for good. Great product for rusty surfaces that's hard to get to. You can also spray it, like inside rocker panels and frams rails with a home-made spray wand. It's NOT for exterior surfaces (body). It works great on frames. You have to top-coat it with paint. They do have new products which aren't UV sensitive like the old stuff. It's a stand-alone product. Whatever you do, DO NOT get it on your skin cause it ain't coming off! Not for a week or so!

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>You can also spray it, like inside rocker panels and frams rails with a home-made spray wand.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Can you take that one step further and explain how to make one of these

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1970 chevelle
406 - TH-350 - soon to be 411's
engine (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/engine.jpg)
Interior (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/interior.jpg)

"I didn't get pulled over for going over the speed limit, i got pulled over for getting there faster than anyone else"