Hello everyone. It has been a while since I did anything new to the Chevelle so I decided to add a crankcase evac system. I decided on the kit from Aerospace Components. It came with the billet pump, drive kit, and oil seperator tank. It also came with -12 hose and (2) 90 degree ends and 2 straight ends. Sounds simple and easy to install right? Not Quite.

The kit is only made for Big Block Chevy's... so if you have a big block you are in heaven... but alas, I am a small block guy. No worries though.. where there is a will there is a way. Thanks to Mark at Franklin Machine I was able to fabricate an adapter plate to bolt the pump to a small block head. Next I had the drive pulley assembly milled down to fit inside my serp pulley. After that I had to figure out where to put the oil canister.... more fabrication to make a bracket for that.

Now that it is done I a waaaay proud of myself. I posted new motor pics on my webshots page. They are in the 65 chevelle folder.

http://thumb8.webshots.net/t/26/27/0/97/51/370609751yNNHhr_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/album/327735289EkhkKs)

Looks good, nice job!

Thanks.. If anyone else wants to make this work for a small block just let me know and I'll send the pattern for the adapter plate.

Steve

Have you checked the case for vacuum leaks? It's a lot easier to find them on the engine stand than in the car.
Is the oil separator on the suction side of the pump?
Does the kit come with a relief valve?

I installed a vac gauge on the valve cover that tells me how much vac the system is under. The seperator is on the "blow" side and the suck side goes to my pass side valve cover. The oil pulled out if the motor is used to lubricate the pump. Although the guys at Aerospace recommended to add a little oil to the pump now and then for street driving. They said to start at 5--7 inches of vac on the street and 9-12 at the track. The kit came with an adjuster which I installed on the driver's side valve cover that controls the amount of vacuum the system.

Steve

You need to make sure to check the breather tank closely, especially when you first use the system. You may find that it moves a LOT more oil through the pump than you'd think possible. One other thing.... when the vacuum relief valve opens up, that will tend to let it really move some volume of air/oil through the pump. I was going to use a Moroso relief valve installed in the valve cover right near the -12AN fitting to pull vacuum from. Then I decided to use a Star external inline vacuum relief valve for a couple reasons. First, it won't pull outside air through the motor when it opens up, and secondly it will be cooler air heading into the vacuum pump when it does pull outside air in. If you keep the Moroso relief valve (or it appears similar to one!) you may want to do what I did even with my external one- put a K&N filter over it. This will keep dust/dirt from getting into your motor. The Star valve does have a screen on it, but I still felt the filter over it had some benefits. This photo shows the relief valve with filter over it, but the pump is somewhat hidden down low under the balancer area:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-5/205791/race_mtr.JPG

This older photo (this carb is for sale now!) shows how things were going to be with the single outlet and the Moroso valve hidden under the filter:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-5/205791/intake.JPG

You need to make sure to check the breather tank closely, especially when you first use the system. You may find that it moves a LOT more oil through the pump than you'd think possible. One other thing.... when the vacuum relief valve opens up, that will tend to let it really move some volume of air/oil through the pump. I was going to use a Moroso relief valve installed in the valve cover right near the -12AN fitting to pull vacuum from. Then I decided to use a Star external inline vacuum relief valve for a couple reasons. First, it won't pull outside air through the motor when it opens up, and secondly it will be cooler air heading into the vacuum pump when it does pull outside air in. If you keep the Moroso relief valve (or it appears similar to one!) you may want to do what I did even with my external one- put a K&N filter over it. This will keep dust/dirt from getting into your motor. The Star valve does have a screen on it, but I still felt the filter over it had some benefits. This photo shows the relief valve with filter over it, but the pump is somewhat hidden down low under the balancer area:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-5/205791/race_mtr.JPG

This older photo (this carb is for sale now!) shows how things were going to be with the single outlet and the Moroso valve hidden under the filter:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-5/205791/intake.JPG
Thanks for the info! Any Chance you have any old (not reeeeealy pricey) Hogan's manifolds? I'll be checking that tank regularly. I put a K&N filter over the inlet on the valve cover... I was thinking the same thing about drawing in dust... but it never occured to me to put in an inline version. That is one beauty of a motor in your pic... Wish I could afford it!

Steve

It's a near impossibility to find them used. I was VERY lucky to find one with the correct runner length/cross section/taper/plenum volume that I required. And it was almost hard to believe that a guy who only lived 20 minutes away (that I'd never even known or met) had for sale. There is a used Hogan's intake on Racing Junk (www.racingjunk.com) right now, I believe for about $1K. Which is a great price, if it's exactly what you need. The single 4-bbl intakes are $2600 new, and figure about $150 more if you want an additional dual 4-bbl top. I was so fortunate with my deal you wouldn't believe it. I got the intake with a single 4-bbl top, a dual 4150 top, a dual 4500 top, and a plenum spacer all for well under $1K. It also had two sets of bungs welded into the intake runners for nitrous/fuel injection if so desired. If you go with a new intake there are some others out there like Taylor Lastor (TRE) who also build them and his are less than Hogan's go for. He also has ads on Racing Junk and I think his are about $1750. But, I'd think if you're going to want to run one on the street/low rpm environment you'll end up wanting one built that has some smaller runner sections/smallish plenum/etc. to work well. If you run an intake that's too large you'll suffer badly in terms of drivability and throttle response. The only reason I'm going this route is that the motor will not see under 7K once it leaves the starting line.

Found the guy again who had a Hogan's intake for sale. Not sure of runner or plenum information.... but I've put the link below. I know it's expensive, but remember you're looking at $2600 for a new one!

http://racingjunk.com/post/730037/2-INTAKES-CARBS-FUEL-PUMPS-SHORTY-TRANS..html