I've done searches for the correct way to remove the doors, but all I can find are suggestions for door reinstalls. All of those posts seem to be for solving the problems that occur when little thought was given prior to door removal. I'm hoping that someone has a proven step-by-step technique for removal that will allow a relatively easy reinstall that keeps the doors aligned correctly. Any suggestions would be appreciated since the doors will be off the car for several months and my memory isn't that good anyway. This is for a 69 Malibu 2-door ht.
Thanks

------------------
Bob McCormick
69 Malibu project

Bob Chances are that the body underneath the hinges is not painted. You could also mark the fit with masking tape. This will show exactly where the hinge belongs. The body side bolts can be removed without taking the fender off. If you leave the hinges on the door, this is what you are looking for(?)

Rob

you can also make wooden shims to place in the door gaps (that is if the doors are where you want them now)which will assist in lining up. Most craft stores sell paint markers, get a color (I use white) that contrasts your paint. Outline the door hinges and striker latch before you remove any bolts. this way you will be able to place the door exactly where it was when you removed it. the other thing I do is to use a floor jack with some wood blocks to protect the surface and to hold the door up while you are unbolting. Good Luck http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

Great ideas guys. Now you got me thinking in the right direction. I do intend to remove and rebuild the hinges as they are a little too worn. Also, it is very likely that there will be sand blasting and primering before the hinges are reinstalled.

------------------
Bob McCormick
69 Malibu project

Repairing the hinges and sandblasting and painting the jambs will make this a difficult task. In that case what I would do is make the shims for the door edges (rear and bottom) and not worry about marking the hinges. Reason being that with rebuilt hinges and blasting and painting the jambs will negate any preparation.. The only way you might be able to get away with marking is with a center punch. put two little punch marks (indents) on either end of the bottom/side of the hinge, this should get you in the ballpark, and with the shims you will be close to dead on.. I assume you intend on removing the fenders??? otherwise it's going to be tough getting in there http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif Good Luck

Normie -
Absolutely yes on the fender removal. I just started a couple of days ago working on this car, and it will eventually be disassembled.

Incidentally, I found out something interesting about the rear window removal today. There are actually two different types of clips that are used to hold on the trim around the window. I remember a post awhile back about how to slide the clips to remove the trim. Well, those are the type of clips at the top and bottom. On the sides, however, the clips are smaller, snap-in clips and are more difficult to release. Fortunately (or unfortunately) most of my clips were rusted, so removal of the trim was not difficult. Now I have to find a source for new clips.

------------------
Bob McCormick
69 Malibu project

Bob. Just another thought. When reassembling the door you might use flat had cap screws http://www.si.hhs.nl/~rob/images/scanned/220_ass_door_hinge.jpg This will make adjustment a lot easier and you can do it with the fender on.

Rob

------------------
www.si.hhs.nl/~rob (http://www.si.hhs.nl/~rob)

Rusty66 -
You are absolutely correct !! I remember reading here somewhere, someone suggesting that, but I wasn't thinking in that direction so I kinda ignored it. I knew that I would be removing the fenders, so that had no meaning to me. Now that I am thinking about the reassembly process, it makes a lot of sense. It would be a whole lot easier to align the doors if you have the fenders in place to check the alignment.

------------------
Bob McCormick
69 Malibu project

I've removed and reinstalled my '68 doors a couple of times, so I'm damn near an expert now! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif

I had to figure out a way to make it a one man job...I used my engine hoist and a couple of web belt-like straps (forming a type of cradle) to hold the door up while I removed the hinge bolts from the door frame. The strap material is very strong and doesn't scratch or damage the door surface.

When I reinstalled the doors, I just set them in the car and closed the door and latched them. Then I started one bolt in each hinge and used a drift punch in the empty bolt holes and pried up and down and side to side on the punch to adjust the doors. Through a little trial and error, I'm getting pretty good at this!!

I'm sure this ain't the best way, but it seems to have worked OK for me. You may find it easier if you can find a buddy to help you.

BTW...I did all this with the fenders removed. You'll be SOL if you try this with the fenders on.

Good luck.

[This message has been edited by Walter Zoomie (edited 08-28-2001).]

Walter -
Thanks for the suggestions. That's a great ides about the web strap cradle for door removal. I was thinking about trying to build a wooden dolly for the door, but now I don't think I will. The procedure for reinstalling the doors sounds simple enough. Thanks.

------------------
Bob McCormick
69 Malibu project

A word of caution here about reinstallation of the hood after doors and fenders are reinstalled! I made the mistake of adjusting the top of the door on one side in too far, compounded that error by adjusting the fender to the door, then when putting the hood on it was too wide for the space between the fenders and in the process caused myself some additional painting and body work to the top of my fender.

I would not align the fenders untill the hood is in place! leave them spread wide till the hood is on and adjust from there. The doors can be moved in and out after the fenders are on so just get them right front to rear first and save the final in and out for last.

------------------
Elcaminos are special!
I'd rather walk around with a Chevrolet hubcap in my hand than drive a Ford


work in progress
Big James Elky(AKA Ol Paint) (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Big%20James4XL-Ol%20Paint1.jpg)
www.chevelles.com/showroom/workgoeson1.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/workgoeson1.jpg)
www.chevelles.com/showroom/newpaint1.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/newpaint1.jpg)

[This message has been edited by Big James 4XL (edited 08-28-2001).]

As far as replacing a door...I just came in from doing that on my 72 Chevelle. I had the fender removed which made it a piece of cake. All I did was set the door in place...close it on the striker bolt...and replace the bolts on the hinges...and tighten them down. Maybe I got incredibly lucky...but every thing lined up great...door ..fender ..etc... Just FYI stuff.

Scott

Big James -
Thanks for the tip on the hood. I probably would not have thought about that until too late. Appreciate it.

Dolphnguy -
It sounds very much like you and Walter Zoomie have convinced me that this whole thing with reinstalling the doors is not that big of a deal. Thanks, I feel a lot better about it now. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif



------------------
Bob McCormick
69 Malibu project

Bob, the best way to get the doors to re-align is by drilling a small hole through the hinges. Each door would have 4 small holes

To re-install the doors insert a small nail or pin into the holes which will realign the door to the exact position it was before disassembly. Tighten down the bolts and remove the pins.

Any recommendations on which company have the best "Quality" in door hinge replacement pins/bushings (Our's is a '69 Elke)?

We have found them in the Original Parts Group and Year One catalogs for $20.00 (Kit), with hardened pins and bronze bushings, but haven't looked at Ground Up (Our Sponsor).

Remember, we are looking for "Quality", not price.

Any and all info greatly appreciated.

Team Members Forever.

Richard and Judy White, MAXX2


------------------

I found the OPG kit to fit and function very well and also thier detent repair kit. I have since found that the hinge pins and bushings are available at most autobody supply stores.

------------------
Elcaminos are special!
I'd rather walk around with a Chevrolet hubcap in my hand than drive a Ford


work in progress
Big James Elky(AKA Ol Paint) (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Big%20James4XL-Ol%20Paint1.jpg)
www.chevelles.com/showroom/workgoeson1.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/workgoeson1.jpg)
www.chevelles.com/showroom/newpaint1.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/newpaint1.jpg)