First off, I'm almost 18 and I purchased a '69 Camaro about 3 months ago. It needs paint and I would like to paint it Dark metallic blue instead of the current color(of door jams etc) which is rallye green. Because I am really limitied on money and have always been a perfectionist (maybe not about spelling) I want to do all the bodywork and priming myself. All the bodywork I have done I have used "Bondo" the brand filler and has actually turned out very good. I applied the filler to bare metal that I treated with a metal prep and followed directions. Now, because I don't have a compressor I ran down to the local bodyshop place and bought some "SEM Self-Etching Primer" to cover the bare metal spots. I currently am wet sanding the car and getting the filler perfect. The car as it sits has no old basecoat but does carry the old primer... I was told I shouldn't break the seal if I didn't have too but is this correct? because the top of the car has a maroon looking primer and the bottom a grey primer. In the end do you think it would be cheaper than $1000 for basecoat and clearcoat if I wanted to paint it myself?? This is my first project car and I don't want to mess up anything. If maybe some of you with expirence could give me some advice on how to go about finishing the paint what products to use and what not, maybe some names of books to buy, that would be great. Thank you.

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I hate to tell you this but if you treated the metal with metal prep before you applied filler it probably wont stick.Filler should only be applied to freshly ground,bare metal.Did it seem like it wanted to peel off when you sanded it?

I've allways thought filler uses a mechanical adhesion to surface being applied to. Myself, I grind to bare clean metal to apply. However I have a buddy who also runs a small custom shop that applys filler over an epoxy primer and has had no ill effects?? I'd be interested to hear others opinions on this.
Might learn somethin' new, however I'd agree with 70isfine on this. for now. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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'68 SS-396 1/4 stroker "54" (soon)
'99 GMC 7.4 Vortech
'01 T-Cat 1404 Hooper 2X156"
"no replacement for displacement"
-2 Below Custom Automotive
Fbks, AK.

Well actually what I would do was use the metal prep where I used stripper then sand it and wash the dust off with a spray bottle dry the metal then apply filler. It seems to stick really well. and it isn't peeling at the edges or anything.

Ok, I'm confused? Why sand the metal etch?
The mechanical adhesion is between the filler and the repair panel (bare metal). sanding the etch primer will only reduce it's chemical/ mechanical adhesion promoter. It will create an adhesion factor but also a shrinkage factor at the "cut" of sanding. possibly a lifting concern at (if not) a later date? Ie: solvent evap, humidity, temp, ect.
Martinsr, help us out here.


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'68 SS-396 1/4 stroker "54" (soon)
'99 GMC 7.4 Vortech
'01 T-Cat 1404 Hooper 2X156"
"no replacement for displacement"
-2 Below Custom Automotive
Fbks, AK.

I think you misunderstood, I only put filler on bare metal.. What I did was strip the paint off a section with aircraft stripper then used a metal prep cleaner to get the stipper chemicals out, then I would sand the spot with some rough sand paper (80grit) and apply filler to bare metal.

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I really just want to know if I'm on the right track. Is there any good products I should know about and is it even worth my effort priming spots (bare metal) with "SEM Self Etching Primer" a rattle can primer from the auto paint place.

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All I can say is that the 2-part filler/primers (epoxy maybe) are much better than any spray can stuff.

If you are going to paint the car you'll need a compressor and gun anyways so why not go for it now. You'll never regret getting a good compressor in the long run.

Peter

For another real good resource, go check out AutobodyStore.com. Len and the boys are great!!
http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index

Cam