I realize mine isn't the first '69 Chevelle to have rust in the metal at the two lower corners at rear glass (at moulding). Not exactly sure how GM thought moisture was going to get out of there with no drain hole system, etc.

I've got about 7 holes at each side, sized from size of pencil lead up to size of eraser. Someone has been there before with what appears to be brass, but these holes are above that older patch.

I'm trying to fix this myself before it goes to paint shop (if possible). Since this is what I'd assume a fairly common issue with this model, are there any better remedies than others? I want to fix it "right", and not just put bondo in it, etc., but I also don't plan on cutting off heavy metal sections just to fix these holes since the metal that is there is fairly solid feeling.

Lastly, if the concensus is to let body shop fix it, how much should patching both corners generally run in $$$?

Thanks for any help.

They only way to do the job right is to cut it out and replace it with a panel or a patch you make. You have to cut out about a 1/2 inch past the rust and weld in a new piece. I had to replace the entire deck filler panel and had to fabricate some of the window channel.

I agree, New metal to do it right...., but......psst check out POR-15's trunk repair kit.

POR 15's Web Page (http://www.por15.com/)

I have had pretty good luck with the Resotomotive Labs epoxy 2-part filler, and POR-15 on top of that for this exact repair.

I agree, New metal to do it right...., but......psst check out POR-15's trunk repair kit.
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Ditto to DG.Key to useing the POR is to clean everything correctly.Use there Mareen Clean and sand blast the area if possible..The POR putty is great stuff smile.gif

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Rick

Use por15 Porputty. It's a single stage putty based on por15 paint. Plugs holes as big as 1/8" if I remember right. I used it on my '68 and it works GREAT. You must apply it using the recommended 3 step cleaning and prep process. It is very much worth the time and effort in a cost comparsion with replacing the whole filler panel if you only have pinholes. By the way , por15 was originally developed for salt water marine enviroments. This stuff is awesome. Check out Restomotives website at www.POR15.com. (http://www.POR15.com.)

Do you plan on making this car a nice driver and want the car to look its best? If you are going thro all the work to restore the car then why start cutting corners?

The BEST hands down repair is cut out old rusted metal and replace with fresh new metal PERIOD. I dont think that POR is the magic cure all that they make it out to be...Sorry but I dont. I think its just new better way of covering up a problem.

Now if the car was mine I would sand blast the area, no need to use big blaster. Most of the times I use a speed blaster, bought mine off the Snap-on truck but Ive seen them sold at eastwood and tp tools cost around 45 bucks. Blast it that way you can see the entire extent of the rust, grinding wont do that. Once done blasting you might come to find that you are able to repair the holes with fabbed up patches. I usually take a die grinder with carbide bit and smooth out the hole that way you got a nice round hole not one odd shaped which is hard to weld. plus if the metal is thinned the bit will eat it way before you start welding, so now you get a nice clean hole to weld.

If you find that the area needs to be replaced with a new panel, then please replace it. Those panels are cake to replace, all hiden spot welds so none of your welding will show if its bad. Ive bought 2 panels from goodmark and like all their parts no fitmet problems what so ever.

I would guess an average repair cost would be 500 bucks. Sounds like alot of money to fix a few holes but when you add ALL the money invested is that 500 all that much?...Eric

True, new metal is they way to go. $500 is not cheap. I would have gone this way if I could have afforded it. Uncle Sam doesn't pay us much so it's either a new filler panel for the Chevelle or milk for the kids. I opted for the milk. Por15 works great. By the way, the '68 really is for my 3yr old son. I have the '72 I drove in high school. He's going to drive the '68 to his high school someday.