I picked up the Stage II kit from SC&C for my 64 El Camino.

I also ordered the renforcement kit from Pete (http://einstyn.com/einstyn-chevelle-parts.htm) for the lower control arms, and I'm ready to get them welded up and powder coated.

I'm using the nickel chrome plated ball joints from SC&C and they measure 2.09", while the hole in the control arm is 2.00".

Is this normal? Do I need to open up the hole? ...or just press them in?

I'm a little gun shy after ruining a rotor (turned down to make a hub) while pressing in studs that were a little too big.
:confused:

Hi Bunky,the ball joints are supposed to be a hard press fit in the arms (so they don`t fall out! :) ). I usually go over the bore in the arms with some 320grit paper to deburr it and remove any rust etc. Our Precision Series joints are CNC machined to exactly stock OD. Many aftermarket joints (like Moog) are actually oversized to make up for the taper in the arms stretching so you shouldn`t have any problems with them (we never have and we`ve installed dozens of them). Just take your time and make sure you get them in nice and straight. If you have any other questions feel free to give me a call at the shop anytime. Mark SC&C

isnt this guy great, hahaha yeah let us know how it goes i am installing some double adjustable coil overs i picked up from mark tonight and i plan on picking up the stage three kit as soon as my wallet says its ok.


good luck

I hear there stuff works great. They are helpful on the phone too! Now they just have to make suspension mods to keep the back of my car straight, it drifts under throttle!

I hear there stuff works great. They are helpful on the phone too! Now they just have to make suspension mods to keep the back of my car straight, it drifts under throttle!

Tub it. It wont drift then.


I plan to do the plate reinforcement/enhancement to my control arms the next time the come off of the car.

I hear there stuff works great. They are helpful on the phone too! Now they just have to make suspension mods to keep the back of my car straight, it drifts under throttle!

Gosh,I can't imagine why. :D :D :D

We`re working hard on a package for the rear right now. The Currectrac arms are a big help (due to a reduction in deflection and non linear binding) but you have to make some serious changes to make it REALLY GOOD and as predictable as modern performance cars. Hang in there,it`s coming. :) Mark SC&C

We`re working hard on a package for the rear right now. The Currectrac arms are a big help (due to a reduction in deflection and non linear binding) but you have to make some serious changes to make it REALLY GOOD and as predictable as modern performance cars. Hang in there,it`s coming. :) Mark SC&C

You know, you may just need a 1000 hp PT car to make sure it works you know! I will keep an eye out for a good test car!

We`re working hard on a package for the rear right now. The Currectrac arms are a big help (due to a reduction in deflection and non linear binding) but you have to make some serious changes to make it REALLY GOOD and as predictable as modern performance cars. Hang in there,it`s coming. :) Mark SC&C

Will it be bolt-on stuff or will it require welding and/or hard modifications to the frame and/or axle mounts? I already have the Currie arms so will I be able to use what I already have?

Cool! :hurray:
That takes a load off my mind.

Thanks for the reply.

full steam ahead, ...damn the torpedoes

Rich, bolt in with some minor trimming here and there. Welding probably won`t be required but if it was a race car or something I`d probably weld it anyway (belt and suspenders you know!) ;) . It`ll use current Currie Currectrac lower arms. The upper arm will be different though.

Bunky,no sweat. That`s what I`m here for! :) Mark SC&C

Just an FYI for anyone using Pete's renforcement kit with the tall lower ball joints. Befor you send your lowers for power coting, do a preassembly. The end of the control arm interfered with the stock rotor. I had to to do a S%^t load of grinding, for clearance.

current Currie Currectrac lower arms. The upper arm will be different though.

Bunky,no sweat. That`s what I`m here for! :) Mark SC&C

Upper ARM? As in one? As in a 3 link? :hurray:

Rich, bolt in with some minor trimming here and there. Welding probably won`t be required but if it was a race car or something I`d probably weld it anyway (belt and suspenders you know!) ;) . It`ll use current Currie Currectrac lower arms. The upper arm will be different though.
Mark SC&C

That'll leave me out then. I'm sure I could find a new home for my Currie upper arms, but I'm still trying to find a home for my Pro-Motorsports spindle extenders and I'm tired of selling off parts I haven't even used and losing money on the deal each time!

Maybe a distant future upgrade, it'll be interesting to at least see what you have come up with.

Mark
Any thoughts on an ETA? It may affect the timing of when I buy parts for my 70....

Gokou,sharp eye. If you like that you`ll really like watt we`re using to locate the rear laterally. ;) Mark SC&C

If you like that you`ll really like watt we`re using to locate the rear laterally.

Interesting!

Gokou,sharp eye. If you like that you`ll really like watt we`re using to locate the rear laterally. ;) Mark SC&C

I'll sit here and wait quietly. :thumbsup:

My only fear is that the lateral locating link will run directly behind the pumpkin, which is right where the fuel fittings are on my Rock Valley fuel tank. I have no room for a PHB/Watts or anything similar directly behind the pumpkin because of the -10AN fittings right there. I'm probably going to have to rework my fuel tank. I kind of expected this anyways when I was planning my own 3-link.

Troy,
There are other tricks for locating your RC via what the roundy-round guys have came up with.

Do a search and you'll get some ideas.

Joe

FIG I don`t like to even guess release dates anymore. We`ve been designing and road testing this rear suspension package for over 3 years now. I wish it were done NOW! ;) Realistically it may be spring. There will also need to be several different configurations for different rears so it may take awhile to get all of them covered.

Gokou you may need to make a little room back there.

Joe,true enough. Believe it or not I have a customer who kicks butt in autocross with a big `96 Impala with the stock C4L rear suspension AND a panhard bar. The stock RC is way too high,the PHB height he`s running is way too low but the conflicted effective RC must be pretty close to right (at least at low speeds,on a tight course). It has some other odd parts here and there too apparently the car has all the wrong parts and geometry...in the right combination...:clonk: Mark SC&C