have a few rust bubbles in my paint

have been told the only material that works WELL to repair these is lead because it wont "pop (swell) if it gets wet from behind..
have been told that any plastic repair will fail if the non painted side gets wet due to swelling and popping?
then another shop told me that was not correct and plastics would work just as well

whats the truth on this...which materials (name brand preferably) work and which should be avoided

rust bubbles are just behind pillars on roof,
front lower corner of door and front corner of rear quarter panel just behind door

are these types of small problems universal with other cars, sooner or later or are there restored cars that simply dont have this problem??

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Rich Baratta
Cocoa Beach, Fla
Team Chevelle #380
May 2001 Feature Car
wa3men@aol.com
www.chevelles.com/showroom/70_SS_454.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/70_SS_454.jpg)

[This message has been edited by 70 SS 454 (edited 06-26-2001).]

Yes, you are right in thinking that lead would work well. In these "modern" times the technique has probably shifted over to a mig weld and some plastic filler. If the hole is small, then soldering in a patch and filling with either lead or bondo will do a nice permanent job.

Plastic filler (bondo) acts like a sponge and will soak up water. If left unprotected from the back side it will (over time) rust the base metal and push up the body work. I've seen this happen in wheel wells, fenders, quarter panels, where they are subject to water. The problems could be avoided by simply painting the back side or sealing it with undercoating. In other areas where its dry there shouldn't be any problem.

Body filler is not a good repair for rust, period. Lead will work, but can corrode the surrounding metal if not properly applied. It's called dissimilar metal corrosion. The best solution remains cutting out the damage and welding in new metal. For small holes, you can make an effective repair by backing up the hole with a small piece of sheetmetal and welding up the hole. Then grind it smooth, and THEN it's okay to use body filler as a final step in restoring the surface. Large areas will require patch panels, or even panel replacement.
There just aren't any band-aids or quick fixes for this.

[This message has been edited by Randy Mosier (edited 06-27-2001).]

thanks guys i really appreciate this info

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Rich Baratta
Cocoa Beach, Fla
Team Chevelle #380
May 2001 Feature Car
wa3men@aol.com
www.chevelles.com/showroom/70_SS_454.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/70_SS_454.jpg)

Cut it out and put in a patch, us por 15 epoxy to fill in, it is great stuff.

ie por 15 epoxy as good as a metal patch?

will it absorb water as i have been told that plastics will (epoxy is a plastic!!)??

if under the bubble we only find a surface rusty spot fropm poor metal prep prior to painting, without a hole, what is the best procedure to repair..

if poor metal prep is the culprit, how long after the paint job would the bubbling begin??

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Rich Baratta
Cocoa Beach, Fla
Team Chevelle #380
May 2001 Feature Car
wa3men@aol.com
www.chevelles.com/showroom/70_SS_454.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/70_SS_454.jpg)

70 SS

I have found that por 15 epoxy is outstanding, but I have only used it on the floor, and with a patch (rear deck).

I cut out rust then put in patch, then Por metal ready, then Por 15 then filled in with epoxy, I has been 1yr now and only primer and no sign of rust.

Once this epoxy hardens it is like a rock, I soaked a hardened ball of it in water and nothing