I am getting ready to pull the body and do the floors. My supports are almost completely gone! I need some insight on removing what is left. Hammer and chisel? Air chisel? torch? Dynomite? And then replacing with new. Measurements? Weld in to rockers?? Spot weld to the floor, or plug weld?? You guys are a plethora of valuable knowledge and I am growing to like this place more every day.. OK enough sucking up I need more advice!! Next post will be on the Trunk and Body brace sections so get tuned up or include your info here.

Thanks
Mike
P. S. How do you guys get the smiles and OH's in your posts?

Dynomite http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif I'm sure many of us have felt that would be a good option at some point.

I can't help with the main topic of your post but if you click the link to the left of where you type your post that says "Smilies Legend" (or here http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smilies.html) you'll see how to do that...

Good Luck,


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Rick Sutter
Member #383
'67 Chevelle Super Sport
67SS.com (http://67SS.com)

OK http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif. does any one have any insight to installing the floor braces? http://www.chevelles.com/forum/confused.gif

I'm interested as well, as I did a frame-off on my car, (Blasted and powdercoated the frame.) but chose not to do the floors with the body on cinder blocks. Too much fear of twisting. I want to replace the floors, as well as the braces. I already have both from aftermarket suppliers.

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Mark
Member #605
Better to BURN OUT, then to fade away

I've only rebuild the existing pieces but I have replaced a bunch of other parts and have some thoughts.

Is the floor gone too? If the floor is not gone I would carefully cut/drill off the support and weld the new one in. If the floor is gone, I would cut the old support off of it anyways and get the support replaced before removing the floor. It will easier to get it in the right location with the floor there to guide you.

The best tools to remove old metal like this are a spot weld drill and a cut off wheel. You can use a 4" or 5" angle grinder for the big cuts and then a small 3" wheel in an air die grinder for the details and to clean up what is left.

Attach the new one by welding it however you want. You can weld the edges to the floor and rocker every few inches. You could also drill holes in the floor (and use the drilled spot weld holes) so that you can weld through the holes to the flanges on the support. A fairly decent Mig or wire feed welder is the only way to go when doing this type of work. Get one and get good as using it.

The hardest part with body work is getting the new part attached exactly where the old one was. Measure it or make marks or follow the spot welds and rust lines. If you get the floor supports all out of whack, the body won't go back on the frame right (trust me on this).

As for Marks question. If you place the body back on the frame you should block it or set it or whatever in place exactly where it should be (front to back, side to side and up and down) and then weld the new components in. It would be easier since you can line the bracket up and bolt the mounts to the frame before welding it. If you have the body at the right height and do this a brace at a time you should be able to get it together really close to the way it was. With the old mounts rusted the body will often settle down on the frame so getting the height right is the hard part. I would tack the brace on and then fit the floor panels to make sure that the brace doesn't need some fine adjusting before getting it heavily welded.

Peter

Thanks for the info Peter.
Have you heard of anyone placing the braces in position on the frame and setting the body on them to hold them in place to spot weld them to the new floors? Or, should I just get them as best I can using witness marks in the old location?

Thanks
Mike

Mike;

I was just thinking that a jack putting a little pressure under the new brace would probably make it press into position perfectly. Just use enough pressure to hold it but not to distort the flooring.

If you spend enough time and get the body mount bolt position really close to the origional location you should not have any re-installation problems. I shifted my body about 1/2" on the mounts because it wasn't square on the frame the first time I bolted it down, so the mounts have some play. If you don't get the body square on the frame the front clip is hard or impossible to line up (trust me on this).

Peter