Well, its about that time to get to the track again now that I have the TT 71 tuned in perfectly. I should make it within the next two weeks. I have to get the new rear tires mounted first! I thought it would be fun to see what you all thought as far as quarter mile guesses for my car along with any tip on launching with road race tires!!

-3850 raceweight
-tubular rear suspension
-4 corner adjustable shocks
-No hop bars
-stock springs all around
-17" wheels all around with 315/35/17" Goodyear Eagle F1 GSCS road reace tires
-347" LS1 with twin turbos and 18 psi of boost
-Approx. 800 RWHP 700 rwftlb. or 1000 hp and 850 ftlb @ crank
-93 octane
-T400 with trans brake
-10" Niel Chance converter
-12 bolt with 3.42 Gears

Comments?? For me, My guess with a good burnout to 10.00 at 144. That is my guess.

I say lack of traction gets you a 10.60 pass but with rocket ship MPH, like 135......Just my guess.:)

10.20 if you can get any traction at all. Why not try some Drag Radials or better yet slicks just for the track?

I probably should have put a piece of info that might help the guesses a little.

Last fall I made a pass with a set of small turbos that made 751 rwhp. The car had a 9" converter that failed about half track. The fins flattened out and the car would not stay off the rev limiter, I let off numerous times and kept stabbing it, but that was it, nothing! The car went 10.50 @137 like this. Since then, I have replaced the converter with a new 10", Changed from 50 series flowmasters to Dynomax ultraflows(exhaust is full to the bumper), Added ram air induction that lowered intake temps from 138 to 110 degrees, and added much bigger turbos along with higher boost(ran 14 psi last year, now I am at 18 psi).

10.20 if you can get any traction at all. Why not try some Drag Radials or better yet slicks just for the track?

I have BFG drag radials on the car now, they are bald as an Eagle, I am hoping the tires I bought will offer more overall traction being they are a super sticky race compound. I also run 12" rear disc brakes that do not allow 15" rims. I would like to try slicks, but I like ace at the track, like the car is on the street. I change nothing, that way I know what my car will run in street trim.

If you hit 137 mph under the old conditions, my guess is that you will need a Parachute you wiil be at 150mph or better if you make a clean pass.

I ssume the car is caged to run legally.....but with that combo a low ten should be easy.

Scotty,

If you could stick it and run optimally it should go 9.13 @ 146.5 with a 1.26 - 60' time with the power you are making.

Just guessing, but with a road race suspension/tires I would think you would be hard pressed to hit a 1.75 - 60'.

Sooo....1.75-1.26 = .49

.49 x 2 = .98

9.13 + .98 = 10.11

You will lose a little MPH too if you can't hook or apply full throttle off the line so I would guess MPH will be around 140 MPH or so.

Good Luck and keep it off the guard rail!!! :thumbsup:

I have bested a pulled a 1.67 60' in many years ago with the NA setup and road race tires. I am hoping for that again.

The car does not have a cage, that is a project on my list for this winter. Wish I could win the lotto! Maybe someday!

No guesses here, havent been any faster than 12's yet:boring:

Dying to see what yours runs, though! Make that first pass count before they boot ya!

The car does not have a cage

1) How do you expect to get it through tech?:confused:
2) Do you really want to risk your safety running a 9.xx with no cage?

Be safe! You could always hammer it through the 1/8th or even up to the 1000' mark, then lift. Then you can extrapolate that data to the 1/4 mile.

This car is not is hard to drive as a normal car this fast. The way it is today, I can put my foot to the floor with almost no wheel spin and go through all the gears after a real good burnout. I have my boost set to change by the gear I am in. The car is very smooth and predictable.

Tech will let me in, If I go faster then 11.50, I will get a warning to slow down. Happens every time. Maybe it will only go 11.60??
After that I just park the car and spectate.




1) How do you expect to get it through tech?:confused:
2) Do you really want to risk your safety running a 9.xx with no cage?

Be safe! You could always hammer it through the 1/8th or even up to the 1000' mark, then lift. Then you can extrapolate that data to the 1/4 mile.

Are you going to run it at Great Lakes?

Not sure yet, I have heard byron is a nice track. Well see.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144438

Check this thread out, I am going to try and make Byron on Sat. Oct. 21st
I dont know if you would be interested, just thought I would point it out

It should go 9.1 @ 149mph with 1000hp and 3850lbs, thats if it was a well set up drag car.
I dont see why you wouldnt just get a set of old 15x8 rims and get some 28x10.5 slicks for the track because you aint gonna hook it without some real tires on it. Hope you mph well tho, good luck.

Tech will let me in, If I go faster then 11.50, I will get a warning to slow down. Happens every time. Maybe it will only go 11.60??
After that I just park the car and spectate.

I'm confused. Are you going to limit it to 11.5 and higher or are you going to make an "all out" pass? What are we guessing on here?

It will be interesting to see your times. Hardly no wheel spin with full throttle and 1000 hp? That is one smooth set up! I am lucky if I make over 600hp, but have major torque off idle and I can spin the tires to the 1000' mark. My fastest run of the day was the first pass at 1/2 throttle. The faster I try to go, the slower my times and mph, and every shift at full boost the car heads for the guard rail. I am still trying to figure out how to get traction with my stiff road suspension. Be careful! ..and good luck.

I'm confused. Are you going to limit it to 11.5 and higher or are you going to make an "all out" pass? What are we guessing on here?

He'll tell the tech guy he expects it to run mid 11's & then go out & ....oops run low 10's high 9's, (which of coarse he didn't know it was capible of).:thumbsup:

I don't know how fast the car will go. I am going to drive there with my wife and 2 year old, let them out, pull up to the line, and put it to the board. Well see what happens.

I can't run a 15" rim witha slick because I have 12" rear disc and from what I have heard, they wont fit over the brakes.

Also, I like to run the car at the track exactly how it is on the street. It is a 99% street car. Alot of people don't run this way, but that's jUSt me I guess, I have seen people actually take there interiors out at the track! I wonder what those guys say if someone offers them a race? "Sorry, I have to take my interior out first, then I can run you."

As far as the no tire spin with the boost controller setup. It is Awesome! With full boost rIght off the bat, the car is dang near undriveable. The pOwer is to hard to modulate, it is kind of either on or off.

Gotta love those LS engines eh Scotty. If I can get my hands on one soon I will put it in my 80 Z28 this winter with hopefully at least a single turbo. Twins would be better though. If you car can get good traction you should go high tens is my guess just cause you will have to baby it out of the hole. Do you have a transbrake?

Yes, I run a trans brake. Man I can't wait to go!

One the secrets with leaving with a turbo car is to launch with almost no boost, the ramp the boost in as you go down the track...works VERY well. Some cars with very large turbos have trouble building boost of the line and use a shot of nitrous to get the car moving till the boost begins to build, then turn the spray off.

Adjustable boost controller is a must with non-drag suspension & street rubber with virtually no sidewalls to cushion the tread surface.

One the secrets with leaving with a turbo car is to launch with almost no boost, .

I guess that would apply in situations where you have a super high horsepower motor to begin with. If your engine makes all of it's power off of the turbo you want to launch WITH boost. My friend had a pinto with a XR4Ti motor 2.3L, T-5 trans, and he chopped the hell out of the throttle after staging to get the boost up. Was a little hard on the thrust bearings, but it worked. With no chopping, the turbo would lag, and the E.T. would suffer. Granted, their was no nitrous shot either to help until the turbo get into boost faster.

I must agree. The adjustable boost controller is excellent. I run through 1st at 9 psi(650 hp), 2nd gear ramps to 12 psi(800 hp) and 3rd runs to 18.5 psi (1000 hp). Without this setup, like if I just program full boost right away, I cannot keep the car straight untill almost 100 mph. Once boost ramps up, the power comes on so fast there is no way to control it.

I have been experimenting with the trans brake and found if I can leave at 1 psi, the car will leave like a bat outa hell. The only problem is once I give it enough throttle on the t brake to build boost, it is to hard to hold 1 psi, it wants to climb to fast, 2 psi obliterates the tires. I am going to try a launch jest before boost hits and see what happens. I guess its time to activate the 2-step.


One the secrets with leaving with a turbo car is to launch with almost no boost, the ramp the boost in as you go down the track...works VERY well. Some cars with very large turbos have trouble building boost of the line and use a shot of nitrous to get the car moving till the boost begins to build, then turn the spray off.

Adjustable boost controller is a must with non-drag suspension & street rubber with virtually no sidewalls to cushion the tread surface.

Good luck, can't wait to see the numbers..

Scotty, I was doing the Pro-Touring thing with my car and have 17x9.5" wheels all the way around, 13" front brakes, 11.5" rear, etc... I was running some hi performance street tires in a 275/40/17. Even with my modest 350rwhp, I had virtually no traction at least through 1st gear.

I swapped a pair of 275/40/17 Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials on the rear, and the car is MUCH more fun to drive. I lost a little handling feel because they have a softer sidewall, but gained mucho traction and I can hook at the track now and actually use most of my HP on the street without getting in a dangerous situation from loss of traction. The car is alot more fun to drive with the DR's.

If you could afford that engine, you can certainly afford a set of DR's for the back. Unless you're getting on a road course with the car, the DR's will give you much more enjoyment than street radials with that power level, unless you're only goal is to smoke rubber. :) At your power level I wouldn't want to even attempt a pass at the track on street tires, that's just asking to get in a bad situation when you lose traction at 100+mph and go into a fishtail.

I'd say it will do 180 down the straight away :) lol

I have been in a few 100+ mph fishtails while getting the car dialed in, not fun. I have drag radials on the car now. They work o.k. The New tires I jsut ordered are road race tires that are also super sticky if not stickier, they just have a stiffer sidewall. Fortunatly, hard or soft sidewalls do not make to much difference in my application. 17's don't have much sidewall to start with. I went to a road race tire because I end up on the sidewalls of the drag radials during super hard corners, that is not good.