My rear window ledge on my '70 has some major holes and was wondering if removing that filler piece between the trunk opening and window opening involves simply drilling out the spot welds and welding a new Goodmark panel in or is this a major PIA. Any help is appreciated as always.

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Instead of drilling the spot welds, see if you can seperate them with a air chisel. This will save your trunk gutter this way, it worked well for me. It's not that bad of a job, but I was replacing both 1/4's at the same time. good luck.

Using a chisel to seprate spot welds is a good way to DESTROY the panel below you are trying to save.

If you use the RIGHT tools meet for the job you can very easily drill out those spot welds and NOT even touch the underlaying panel.

Eastwoods or just about any body supply store will sell the PROPER drill bits to remove spot welds. The best ones to use look like a flat drill bit. The ones that look like a hole saw are JUNK a complete waste of money.

You want the best bits money can buy in my book that WILL outlast those elcheapo models by 1000%
http://www.dentfix.com/acb2/showdetl.cfm?DID=6&Product_ID=23&CATID=3

Sure that sounds like alot but think how many of those hole saw types you will eat up before that bit pays for itself and then some.

Anyway if you have that rear deck panel in hand look and see HOW its made. The replacment of that panel is quick and easy.

Thanks sevt_chevelle. I bought a spot weld drill bit several months ago like the one shown on that website and I guess it is time to use it. The panel itself is in very good condition except for the holes in the vert face of the window support lip and I don't see a logical/good way to fill or patch them, so I suppose I have to replace this whole piece. If you have any ideas, please let me know. Thanks again graemlins/thumbsup.gif

don't forget about your window trim clip studs that are welded to the filler from factory. take note of where they are located before you remove anything !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!and what your going to use in thier place :confused: because the repair panels dont have them on it.

If you have a glass guy re-install the window, they will re-install the clips. Don't discount the chisel theory. I removed my panel with no holes, nicks or distortion. You may find that once you get one edge loose, by simply rocking it the other side will pop the spot welds loose. Start in the trunk gutter, as the other is probably rusted and may come loose very easily.

I was wondering about the clip studs, but I will let the glass guy worry about that. Thanks again y'all graemlins/waving.gif

I am telling you 71Metbu, you are a MASTER at the air chisel. I have been doing this stuff for 25 years every day for a living and wouldn't even think, not for a second to split those spot welds with one.

The spot weld drill simply "unbolts" the part.

I replaced that panel on my '69 and drilled out the spotwelds with an Eastwood bit. There are a bunch of spotwelds and it IS a PITA even with the proper bit. You have to grind through some welds at the edges too. I used a cutting disc. Do measure and make a drawing of where all the trim clip studs are and measure the height of the stud heads. It's a good idea not to throw away the old panel til after everything is done and the window and trim are back in place. I went to numerous body shop supply places here and none had the proper studs. So I used small stainless phillips head sheet metal screws which worked well. You have to match the screw head to the clip openings though, so get new clips beforehand. When the panel is off it's a good time to POR the top of the structural panel underneath, which is otherwise unaccessible.

You will have to worry about the clip studs because the glass guy will expect them to be mounted all ready. You can run screws to hold your clips on but make for a good place to start another rust problem and leaks. Get the replacement studs and mount them before installing the panel. I used the screw in type and then came in from behind and welded them in place to seal& secure them. BTW, if you can replace this panel, you can put you own rear glass in place very easily.
Roger

Originally posted by 67shovel:
You will have to worry about the clip studs because the glass guy will expect them to be mounted all ready. You can run screws to hold your clips on but make for a good place to start another rust problem and leaks. Get the replacement studs and mount them before installing the panel. I used the screw in type and then came in from behind and welded them in place to seal& secure them. BTW, if you can replace this panel, you can put you own rear glass in place very easily.
Roger From one senior designer to another, I'll just have you come over and do those studs for me :D
(just kidding)
I was thinking about removing the panel (spot weld bit), tack welding a thin backer plate to the backside of the vertical face that has the holes, reinstall same piece and then fill/smooth in holes with plastic filler or POR Putty from the front, then prime and paint. All of my clip studs are intact and the panel is straight. I just can't patch the holes because I cannot access the backside. What do you guys think about that idea ?

Originally posted by sevt_chevelle:
Using a chisel to seprate spot welds is a good way to DESTROY the panel below you are trying to save.

If you use the RIGHT tools meet for the job you can very easily drill out those spot welds and NOT even touch the underlaying panel.

Eastwoods or just about any body supply store will sell the PROPER drill bits to remove spot welds. The best ones to use look like a flat drill bit. The ones that look like a hole saw are JUNK a complete waste of money.

You want the best bits money can buy in my book that WILL outlast those elcheapo models by 1000%
http://www.dentfix.com/acb2/showdetl.cfm?DID=6&Product_ID=23&CATID=3

Sure that sounds like alot but think how many of those hole saw types you will eat up before that bit pays for itself and then some.

Anyway if you have that rear deck panel in hand look and see HOW its made. The replacment of that panel is quick and easy. Can those bits be used to remove panels that have been previously replaced using plug weld method or are they only for removing factory spot welded panels?

Dave

When your a poor broke bastard such as myself, invention becomes the mother of nessecity. Drill bits,splitting chisels and pliers will go a long ways. Mine was quite rusty, so the spot welds were a bit weak. I,m not trying to argue, just suggesting that there is more then one way to skin a cat. Check with a local glass guy as to if they will re-install the trim clips as i've had it done. If you can replace the panel (65.00 at goodmark I believe) I think that you will be a lot happier. Enough said, I'll go away now.

UPDATE !!

I went home last night and worked on this "hole" situation. I decided to tack weld small strips of 20 ga. metal to the face of the window ledge where these holes are. It worked like a charm. graemlins/thumbsup.gif All holes are covered and studs are exposed. All I will do now is seam seal with filler, cover liberally with POR-15, prime and paint. This was an easy fix and I will post before and after pic's on my site this weekend. Thanks guys for the input graemlins/waving.gif