I am going to undertake the boywork on my 66 andwas wondering what type of prep I should perform. I dont want to strip it down to bare metal and was wondering if sanding the old paint down smooth and then applying filler where needed followed by a primer coat is ok? or should I apply something over the old paint before filling and finish priming? also any reccomendations on primer filler to use would be appreciated. thanks

What type of paint is on the car now ? Original factory finish ? Sevt_chevelle may chime in here and point you in the right direction. He really knows this stuff. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Also type of paint going on is needed information.

Im looking for recommendations on paint type .Its gonna be a driver so I want a good paint but it will not be a show vehicle .Its a 66 Elky factory paint on it now and some old primer. I was hoping to paint it single stage for ease of application. yes sevt knows his stuuf on bodywork and paint.

I was hoping to paint it single stage for ease of application. Just as an FYI single stage is not easier to apply. Base/clear without a metallic would be the easiest thing to apply. If you chose a metallic or a pearl then the single stage would be a pretty hard paint job to apply for a novice. Single stage is also alot harder to repair and blend if the need should ever arise.
Jeff

Ok thanks thats why I was asking I want to paint it Cortez silver which I believe has a metalic finish.

Filler CANT be applied to sanded paint, OLD or NEW. Since you dont want to go to bare metal on the entire car just remove the paint in the areas that will recieve filler.

I would use a ROLOC disc with the green corps style of disc made by 3M. I no longer use 36 grit to grind metal, I use 80 grit and 180 on aluminum. Todays fillers no longer need that large gouge created from 24-36 open coat grinding discs, on modern steels they can create more damage. Learned that lesson REAL FAST on a 00 chrylser 300M hood graemlins/angry.gif

On areas that those Roloc wont reach 3M also makes a super sweet tool called the "clean-n-strip" Looks like a round black sponge, great at removing rust and paint wont harming the metal.

So just remove the paint on the filler areas and apply your filler. On the rest of paint sand with 220-320, that will quikly remove the top layers of paint and leave you with the fatory primer.

As for a primer surfacer you NEED to KNOW if it will work on lacquer products if you indeed do have lacquer. PPG's k36, k38 ncp270/271/280 CAN NOT be applied over sanded lacquer directly

The only primer surfacer I see that can be applied over lacquer is NCP250 in the PPG line.

If you want to apply one of the other surfacers you NEED to apply epoxy primer sealer FIRST like dp90lf. Mix the epoxy in the primer ratio which wil be 2:1. Spray 1-2 med wet coats and allow the proper flash time, wait 60 mins. Now come back and spray your srufacer of choice over that epoxy, YOU MUST DO THIS WITHIN THE SAME WORKING DAY OR LIFTING CAN OCCUR.

When sanding the first round of surfacer take it easy if you see that you are strating to break throu to the epoxy STOP sanding that spot. If you break throu to the lacquer spray a coat or two of epoxy over the lacquer before you spray the surfacer...Eric

Thanks for the info. If i decide to strip to bare metal what would you use for surfacer/primer and is bc/cc the best coice for paint?

hoping sevt would amswer up

Yes baseclear is the best choice for paint. Easy to apply best protection against the elements.

If you go to bare metal well theres a few things you need to know. It WILL take you longer, it WILL cost more money, you are more likely NOT TO FINISH the project.

If you go to bare metal go it panel by panel dont strip the entire car all at once. Do one door fix any damage and then prime it. Go to the next door fix damage prime then go to a fender.

On bare metal I like to first apply an etch primer. Etch primer will leave behind a zinc phosphate coating that will aid against corrosion and also is an adhesion promotor. Epoxy primer on bare metal JUST CNAT do what an etch primer can. Since I like PPG products the etch to use is dx1791 or dupont's variprime or S-W EGB973 or 980.

Fix any damage, apply your filler, sand smooth, once you are ready to start priming shoot 1-2 coats of dx1791 over the entire panel. Allow 30 mins dry or flash time, now come back and spray your primer surfacer. I like PPG's k38, apply 2-3 coats of k38.

Once you have say that door primed, now start fixing the other door. Now once you get that NEW door ready for primer, block sand the OLD first door with 180 grit dry. Now prime both doors at once BUT NO NEED to apply etch over the OLD first door, unless you have HUGE spots of bare metal showing, in that case a light mist coat will do.

Heres a link with a few block sanding ideas...Eric
http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=008196

Thanks a million for the info. I was wondering what type of filler you use and reccommend? Thanks again

Well I use two different products. I use evercoats RAGE at work and prefer to use RAGE GOLD at home on my own personal stuff simply because the gold sands easier, spreads easier.

I just bought some new RAGE EXTREME am using on a 1930's farmall tractor that belongs to my Dad. The stuff is pretty spendy, I bought a qt for like 12 bucks and I believe a gallon is around 25-30 bucks. I gotta say the stuff is sweet, to me the ease of application out weighs the cost. I mean why save ten bucks on a gallon of filler just to spend MORE TIME sanding?

So either one of those is a good choice Rage, Rage Gold or Rage Extreme

sevt_chevelle,

How long can the etch primer stay on the car prior to application of the primer surfacer? I was going to do the same thing you are describing (work my way around the car doing 1 or 2 panels at a time). I may have the hood, trunk lid and front fenders dipped/stripped and use Aircraft stripper on the balance at home. Also, do you have any experience with the Sher-Wiliams products such as the Ultra FIll P/S? Thanks for the help. Joe

Well it should be topcoated right after you get done spraying it on.

PPG's dx1791 stats in the sheet that after 24hrs you need to scuff and reapply 1 coat. Dupont's variprime is just scuff and topcoat.

NOw S-W is different, the 973 has a window of topcoating of only 4hrs, 980 is like 24hrs I believe but not sure.
If you are using S-W or M-S paint products I highly suggest to go back to the paint store and ask for the tech sheets on all of the paint products you plan on using. That way if you exceed past those windows you KNOW what to do.

Hopefully someone who knows more about the S-W etches will chime in.

The shop am at now sprayed S-W paint up til about 1 year ago. We changed mainly due to lack of store support and some problems with the clears. Anyway the primer we used was P48 ultra fill, nice product, might be better products out there in the S-W line as for what they are I dont know, am familiar the most with PPG.

Thanks for all the info. Do you see a problem for a first time painter shooting BC/CC and does metalic paint require any special techniques wit BC/CC. Again thanks a bunch