Is there any way to troubleshoot whether the coil is causing me problems or if it is the module in my HEI distributor? Don't modules usually just stop working? I'm having problems starting the car. When I first turn it over it will give a little sputter but then nothing. It will turn over and over with no spark. Definately getting fuel but no spark. Sometimes I can tap the top of the distributor, get back in and start to turn it over with a little "pop" again initially but then nothing. I checked my wires and even replaced the 3 wire capacitor that comes up from the base of the distributor to the coil as I broke the plug and thought maybe the connector terminals weren't making proper contact. Didn't want to spend a lot of money chasing my tail but needed some direction on how to test these things.

thanks,

My money is on the module...

Check the pickup coil, the wires tend to break on them.

hey every time my coil has gone out it would do so after getting warm and then after the coil cooled it would start again. I would have an autoparts store test the module for you--its free to do so. they like to just leave you. remember to test for proper voltage If you have not already.

I say module, I had one die on me and do what your talking about.

Good Luck

Woops

Autozone tested my module(thanks for the tip) and it is working properly. Where are the wires on the pick up coil? Are these the wires you can see if you take the cover off the top of the distributor that run from the terminal connectors to the coil itself?

HI Scott,i assume your running a std GM HEI.

Try/check the following if you have not already done so:

Check the little carbon contact/stud that goes under the coil & extends down into the dist cap and touches the upper contact on the rotor.

I have seen these burn/melt at times along with the rotor too (esp in hot weather) which could cause your problem.

Also,sometimes the coils go bad too from this overheating so have it checked at the same place that checked your module out to make sure it's ok.

good luck

Scott

Scott,
I'll definately check it out tonight. Funny you mentioned in hot weather as it initially started acting up this summer during the high heat! I'll keep you posted. Thanks!

Check the pickup coil, the wires tend to break on them.

I had this same problem. Take off your cap and inspect the red and yellow wires on the HEI terminals. I had the HEI 12V wire break and it would intermittantly touch the metal connector long enough to fire and even drive for awhile.

Clark,
I'll be all over that too! I'll keep you posted.

Thanks!

The rotor tab has a few marks on it that look normal and the stud coming down from the coil looks to be unburned. I also checked the yellow and red wires leading from the coil to the terminals and all seem intact so I need to take the coil to see if it crapped out. I can't even get it to pop anymore. Wish I knew how to test for proper voltage but will report the coil test when I get it there.

Well, here's where I'm at! I had the module checked at Autozone but my wife said it took them longer to study the book on "how to" check it than the actual test itself took! They say the module is good. Checked all my coil wires and the carbon stud and all seems well. Had to be the coil. NOT! Picked up a $20 coil at Advanced Auto and installed tonight. Turned the key and initially popped but then nothing!! It seems if I turn the key off for 30 seconds or more and then try again it will pop again. But if I turn the key off after trying to start and immediately jump back on it I have nothing. Weird. I didn't want to chase my tail but it sure looks like that's what I'm doing. Will a bad module act this way? The one time I actually had her fired up and running for 10 seconds but I didn't feather the throttle enough with no choke and it stalled. Waited a moment and she tried for a second again but then nothing. I definately have gas there but no spark. Could the module have checked out ok but still be the culprit? Anyone need a coil?

Make sure the ground strap is hooked up. It is usually a bent piece of steel that will contact the coil and goes down to the 3 wire connector at the base. Some coils also have an extra wire that grounds to the coil base in addition to the ground strap. I had a previous coil that needed grouned both these ways, it would barely run. Also, was this previously a points car that might still be running the resistor wire as your hot source?

Also, what exactly do you mean by "popped"? Hopefully "fired".

Clark,
The coil has both grounding straps. I ran a new wire direct to the fuse panel as it was a points style before. And sorry.....yes by "popped" I mean fired. Must be that Pa. Dutch coming out of me! Probably derived from popcorn as it "pops" off.

What else could possibly be my problem here? I hate to go buy a module....aren't they like $50 or 60? If I fiddled around long enough I could get this thing started and it would stay running. I'd just have to get her fired on that initial crank of the starter because if it doesn't start on the initial "burst" it won't start. Puzzling? Guess I'll see if anyone else has any thoughts until tomorrow and then freaken splurge on a module yet. Anyone need a coil and a module?

check your 12v wire from the fuseblock and make sure it has 12v while cranking, not just in run. I had a similiar problem that took weeks to find, the fix was moving the wire to a different spot on the fuse block

Ken,
I'll give it a whirl tonight before I spend moneu on a module I probably don't need. Thanks for the suggestion.

i had the problem on my 70, tried 3 different distributors, modules, coils etc couldnt find the prob. would crank for ever, when you let off the key it would sometimes fire for a second but not enough to stay running. found the problem by pure dumb luck. moved the 12v wire now it fires on the first bump of the key (fyi, the extra wire from the starter to the coil is supposed to supply the 12v while cranking, most of the time that wire is removed and replaced)

Clark,
What else could possibly be my problem here? I hate to go buy a module....aren't they like $50 or 60? If I fiddled around long enough I could get this thing started and it would stay running. I'd just have to get her fired on that initial crank of the starter because if it doesn't start on the initial "burst" it won't start. Puzzling? Guess I'll see if anyone else has any thoughts until tomorrow and then freaken splurge on a module yet. Anyone need a coil and a module?

I went thru a problem before and thought the same thing, thought it had to be a bad HEI coil or module, but NOPE...turned out to be the 12V wire fell off the fuse block on the firewall under the dash. Didn't find the problem until I finally stepped back and started thinking about and looking at other things. It was so simple it was the last thing I thought of. After much fiddling, I had been so frustrated I was about to start buying new parts to replace the coil, the module, or the whole distributor. Check the simple things first when it comes to ignition and spark or anything really.

Guys,

I can't wait to get out of work, go home and check my wire I ran to the fuse panel!! Could I be so lucky? It's been working fine for almost 2 years since I made the conversion from points to HEI but maybe it slipped out of the fuse panel part way or some other issue not allowing me to get 12 volts. I'm crossing my fingers.

You guys saved me a lot of grief! Not sure exactly what the problem was but definately at the fuse panel. I pulled the wire off the IGN terminal and plugged it onto another one. Tried to start it but no fire at all. Put it back on the IGN terminal and it fires every time. Either it was corroded(I still need to check) or not making proper contact. Do those terminals or fuse blocks get loose? I'm good for now but need to investigate why it wasn't working or if it will be an intermittent problem if something is loose. Thanks a lot!!

Great news! I love cheap fixes!