Im getting burned out trying to find why this thing runs like crap.
Well heres the start,
Lifter collapsed replaced all of them
Broken Plug, (hardest one to get too) replaced it
Replaced the ignition Module in the Distributor
Broken Wire, Replaced all the wires
Wrong Harmonic Balancer, Replaced it with the right one
Distributor weights and springs messed up, Fixed that
Plugs are fouling and carb isnt too rich, Replaced all plugs with New hotter ones
Detonation was happening, turned the timing down
Its still runing like crap and got a spiratic miss. Im getting ****ed off.
Installing an accel dual point distributor and accel super coil with taylor 10.4mm wires next to get rid of this cursed HEI

Before I go converting all the electronics should I try replacing the Ignition coil? Or do you guys have any ideas on what I should do?

this may sound dumb, but i had a simler problem in the 72. it turned out my wires were to small for the new stuff. i think it was 12 gage, and now i have 4 gage.this might not be your problem, but it was mine. hope this helps.jamie

Are you saying the power wire to the coil was causing problems? What If I ran a good Sized wire straight from the battery to the coil think that would help rule it out if its causing it or not?

Could this cause a miss about every three seconds?

Could a low battery and alternator voltage cause a misfire? I just hooked up a volt meter to my positive wire going to the coil and it read 9.47 volts coming from the battery. I hooked up a battery charger and it then read 12.4 volts.
When I had my alternator tested he said it was running at 10 volts, Although the guy was pretty stupid and I havent hooked up my own volt meter to it and checked it myself.

Sounds like it's a bad alternator. FWIW, a battery going dead will start causing the coil to misfire, especially under a heavier load.

OK guys I changed the coil and rerouted my wires and swaped a few, then I put the battery charger on the battery and started it, It ran great guessing the battery was the culprit tho. Looking into voltage output on the alternator now.
How do you hook up an internal regulated alt to a external regulated system with keeping the external regulator in place?

this might be a Homer Simpson "D'Oh!" kind of thing, but if the alternator isn't charging, it's possible that you have a bad idiot light. turn the key on without starting the engine- if the "alt" or "gen" light isn't on, then check the bulb. i know many people who have spent many hours and many $$$ chasing the symptoms of a screwed up charging system, only to find out that it's a 50 cent bulb that blew.
the alternator swap is easy, and should take about 5 minutes if you take your time.
i assume, of course, that you have the proper plug for the new style alternator- if not, go to NAPA and spend $5 for one.
there should be a red wire that goes from the plug on top of the alternator to the stud on the back of the alternator, and a BIG wire that goes from that stud directly to the battery. if not, put one there. the bigger the better, as this is what actually charges the battery.
for the other terminal, you need to re-use on of the other wires from the old alternator. i like to use the blue one, for no real reason. to get the blue wire out of the old plug, just insert a very small flat blade screwdriver behind the terminal from the back side, and gently pull the wire out.
put this wire into the other terminal on the new plug, and plug it into the new alternator.

that part is done.

now, over at the voltage regulator on the rad support, find the blue wire and cut it about an inch away from the voltage regulator plug. also cut the brown wire on the regulator plug, as well, and splice those 2 wires together with a good butt splice with some shrink tubing for good measure.
there you go, you now have a completely wired internally regulated alternator. hook up the volt meter to the battery and fire it up to see if you have 13.5 or so volts.
you can now take out the stock regulator and a few wires to unclutter the rad support a bit, but if you want the "stock" look, you can cover up your splice with black tape and leave the regulator hanging there. on the alternator side, either cut off the end of the other wire that goes to the old plug and tape it off, or hide the extra plug somewhere that it won't be seen.

OK guys Replaced the Alternator with an internal regulated one, Im now getting 13.5 volts with the engine running, also went and replaced the battery.
I also hooked up the volt meter to the battery wire to the coil....getting 8.5-10volts to the coil with engine running, and 12volts without engine running. so Im guessing that I have the resistance wire still. Ran a wire from the battery to the coil and now getting 13volts to the coil and also smoothed the engine up a little...alot actually.
Ok now with replacing this wire, were should I tie into to get the switched 12volt source for the coil?
Thanks guys and sorry for doubting you with the resistance wire.