I have just finnished some rust repair and have welded in new patch panels.What kind of filler would be best over this kind of repair to keep moisture out. Has anybody used eastwoods metal to metal.would this be a good choice?

I used it and had good success. MartinSr and a few of the other guys told me that while it is a great product it maybe over kill. I do know that you have to work it just as it dries. If you wait over night to cheese grate it, good luck. The stuff is HARD!!!!!! I used it as a base over several areas and later switched to tiger hair bondo it is much easier to work and has the indorsement of the pros on here.

I have to recommend MarGlas...I have used it on several areas on different cars and have never yet had any of it crack, flake, rust thru, or anything. It has been great. I personally have used the tiger hair bondo, and I hate it!! I find it very difficult to work with, but maybe its just me. The MarGlas does not absorb moisture, it has lots of finely chopped fiberglass in it, so the repair is very strong...If you see any little pinholes in it after sanding, they can easily be filled with regular bondo or a good glazing putty. John

Any type of filler WILL absorb moisture, no filler is water proof. If you look on the can you will see that both types of filler regular old style bondo and the fiberglass hair type both contain roughly the same amount of filler material-TALC.

If you have pinholes in your weld no matter what brand it will come back. Not saying that the fiberglass strand filler wont RESIST moisture abit longer but it will come back thro.

Ive used the all metal fillers and personally dont see the big deal about them. They sand hard, dont feather out, hard to know if you have it mixed right, plus they contain aluminum particles that can be dangerous to your health if you dont wear a mask. Anyway you should wear a mask with any type of filler while sanding...period

Basically I would apply a coat of Marglass first, rough out to shape with 36 grit then topcoat with a premium filler like evercoat's rage or rage gold...Eric

What do you guys think about a coat of fiberglass resin over the welds? I would think that would be waterproof.

I have used DuraGlass.
There is only fiberglass in the resin, no talc or microballoons. If they use the stuff on boats, I would think it is pretty water proof.
DuraGlass cannot be feathered well, so plan on another coat of something else over it.

Hey, 70isfine -

I was looking at the pictures on your site. Great job on that car! Looks like you went deep into body repair. :cool:

Pardon my ignorance, but I have a question for you. What kind of welder did you use? Mig? Tig?

Thanks!

Thanks. I use a Hobart Handler 135 mig. .023 wire with gas.

Sevt_chevelle nailed it!
If there are pinholes, and moisture, repair patch WILL fail prematurely.
The refinishing of exterior surface protects outside. Inside needs the same protection. Something must be applied to separate metal from air amd water.
If fiberglass resin/mat, etc is used to seal outside, the backside still needs protection. Without it, the patch will rust out, all that will be left is the fiberglass cap.
The use of vehicle, and exposure to corrosive conditions, will determine rate of failure.

Have used a product called Metal to Metal. It is silver in color sands fairly easily. Result is a VERY fine powder. My guess wouild be that it is no better than any other high quality chemical filler. It does make me feel better to be sanding something that looks like metal. I still topcoat it with a high quality polyester glazing filler.

Karl

www.chevelles.com/showroom/duraglass.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/duraglass.jpg)

Screw it I hate computers graemlins/angry.gif graemlins/angry.gif

SS_Dave, I have to disagree with you on that one. This pic was taken from a can of duraglass that I just bought today. View very bottom-contains TALC...Eric

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