If you have personally installed a Rear disc brake conversion kit did you have problems with the lack of instructions or items being marked R/H vice L/H and vice versa? Just wondering if others out there ran into some of the same problems I did. Your thoughts and experiences.

Paul,
I have the Baer brake kit and I have to say the instructions were ok...however the rear was another issue...they were incorrectly indentified with my kit also.

I installed rear disc brakes but not a Baer kit. My kit came with very basic written instructions. An instruction sheet with photos would have been very helpful. In the end I got everything installed correctly but considering the use of specialized washers in some locations it would have been easy to mess up the install and peformance of the brakes if the instructions hadn't been carefully read before and during the installation.

So far my two biggest issues were: The caliper plates were not identified as to which was left and which was right. No pictures on this. I figured it out, but it took a little time. The main thing that got me was that they say to mount the plates forward of the axle and in the 8 o'clock position for the driver side and in the 4 o'clock position for the passenger side with the machined side outward. Okay, I accomplished that. Then when I went to mount the caliper that was marked R-H for the passenger side the bleeder was at the bottom. And the same for the driver side. I said what the f___! I figured I could just swap units from side to side to make them work. But they were clearly marked R-H and L-H.

I called Baer customer service, the guy there knew exactly what I was refering to. He said "just swap them". You would think when you pay up front $1374.00 that the instructions and the product would be correct. (The reason it was so costly is that I ordering polished calipers-$230 extra).

I'm finding out other things that aren't related to the Baer product. I've got to change all my axle studs to longer ones to accomodate the rims and rotors.

I always expect any kind of car modifications to require some added degree of engineering. Things hardly ever bolt right up like they advertise.

Paul,

I had the exact same problem with my rear caliper mounting. After alot of head scratching and lining things up I just reversed them...guess I should have called and verified but I suppose it's like asking for directions, we just don't do it.

Found out a little late about the wheel studs being too short too. I'm running them but have some longer ones on order. Figured as long as I had a few threads to grab I was fine.

Still trying to track down a slight rear brake fluid leak, but everything else has performed great. Love the new stopping power of the 4 wheel disc, wish I'd had done it sooner.

Corey

Just an update: The next problem I ran into was the parking brake. The new parking brake cables that they provide come out of the frame 4 3/4" just beyond the frontend and above of the lower control arms. My original 68 parking brake cables extended 5 1/4". That's 1/2" from both sides. When it comes to the adjuster up at the rear of the transmission you have lost a total 1". Doesn't sound like much, but it is. I called Baer customer service, got the standard answer. "gee it should work". So I went to a motorcycle shop and had them make me a new cable 1" longer. Works fine. No guy can aford to lose 1".

Paul,
Here are some images of the installation of my rear Baer calipers. I find that mounting them at 8 and 4 o'clock works...in fact if you try to mount them at 9 and 3 o'clock which is possible if you use the alternate holes in the brackets, the emergency brake cable will run right into the lower control arm when the weight of the car compresses the suspension, so stay with the 8 and 4 o'clock mount positions. If you look close at the pictures you will see the brackets for the emergency brake cable marked R - H , this picture is the Driver side or LH side of the car.
One other thing to remember when using this kit, not only do you have to
change the length of the wheel studs but you may also have to turn down the outside diameter of the axle flange that the studs are pressed into. On my
Chevelle the flange measured 6.040". In order for the rotors to fit over the
flange on my kit - Baer Eradispeed+, the flange has to be 5.9" max (if my
memory serves me correctly). Check this diameter while you are having the
studs replaced and have it turned down before you re-install the axles and
find out you have to take them back out a second time.
I did not have a problem with my emergency brake cable length...

For some reason the inserted link is not working so I included the actual link in long hand...let see if this works instead...

http://www.esnips.com/webfolder/7f79b6b1-53b2-4345-ada8-1875d406a888

http://www.esnips.com/webfolder/7f79b6b1-53b2-4345-ada8-1875d406a888

Sam

Sam,

My axles were approximately 6.040 inches also. But, I had no fit problems. You can view where the axle mating surface attaches to the rotor from inside under the car. The inside machined area of the rotors appears to be about 7" in diameter. I saw in their instructions where the axles may have to be machined if there was a fit problem. So maybe they re-designed the rotors to fix that.

While at CB06 I listened in on a seminar by a company called 'The Right Stuff". It was on brakes systems, fuel lines, etc. So on my way up to the Northern Ohio Show and then onto Maryland, I stopped by their manufacturing plant in Ohio and ordered a complete stainless hardline brake kit. So I'm also installing that. Sure wish I had done that when I did the full body off restoration. Installing all those lines with everything else installed is not easy. NOT a piece of cake!

I think I recall you said you were still having small problems on adjusting your back and front braking. A couple of the things they said for me to do was remove and do away with the metering valve at the master cylinder, install a disc/disc master cylinder, and re-install the original combination block on the frame which was a drum/drum block. This is supposed to provide equal braking. I haven't yet finished installing the hardlines, master cylinder, and combination block. Next weeks project.

Paul,
I've since gotten rid of the vacuum booster, master and valve at the vacuum booster. I am currently using a Hydroboost which is a world of difference...completely capable and awesome!!

As far as the axle flanges, the rear inside diameter of the rotor hats supplied in my kit from Baer was just over 5.9" - not 7", (Eradispeed+ kit...and that's a 12" rotor for the rear application). I tried a quick fit before turning them down but they would not seat completely...so off to the machine shop at work for some cutting...Sam

Sam,

If you have read some of my other posts in the brake forum you can see that I'm making progress, but running into new problems as I proceed. Where did you buy your Hydroboost at why did you? What caused you to eliminate the vacuum booster? Can you take a digital picture of your set-up and send it to me at russelldp@san.rr.com

Repied to your message...I purchased my Hydraboost from a company called Hydratech Braking Systems...http://www.hydratechbraking.com/
The owners name is Paul and is very helpful, great company...there are other places to purchase these units also, but at the time I wanted a complete kit. I wanted to eliminate the vacuum booster for a few reasons, all mentioned in a thread in this brake section...valve cover clearance, low vacuum from the cam...added pressure to stop the car when I want it to. The system works great, it's not cheap but worth the money...you could also put one together from junk yard parts or over the counter at the car dealership...but you'll have to fab up the mouting braket, fittings and lines to complete the installation. I think you questioned hooking up through the power steering pump, Yes the Hydraboost gets it's power assit from the power steering pump. No modifications necessary there exept to "T" the rubber return line and change the High pressure line to one of the braided lines HydraTech includes in their kit. Installation isn't to difficult, just some time investment. I like the setup better than the smaller dual diaphragm vacuum boosters.
Sam

Paul @ Hydratrech = :thumbsup:

Great guy. I think I was one of if not his very first Chevelle kit purchasers. Still just as happy with it as the day I installed it.