front sway bar [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: front sway bar


pghsteel
Aug 28th, 06, 3:02 AM
i took my front susspention apart ,and replaced everything -springs-bushings -shocks . i bought new sway bar bushings for a small block from ground up and i cant get the sway bar connected back to the frame , it almost looks like the bushing is to tall . it fits snug around the sway bar and the brackets fit onto the bushing , but the bushing is taller than the bracket and i cant line up the bolts to the frame. also i can not remember what way the bar goes , i might have it upside down . please help

JJ67SS
Aug 28th, 06, 12:48 PM
You can see the sway bar setup in these picts on this thread (not my car just an example)...

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142117

I believe I'm having a siilar issue reinstalling an aftermarket, original type, sway bar to the 66. The holes for the brackets that hold the sway bar to the underside of the frame seem to be off. My solution: I'm drilling out these holes and putting in bolts and nuts, not screws as shown in the assembly manual.

Hope this helps - Good luck.

pghsteel
Aug 29th, 06, 11:13 PM
it helped alot , i was trying to put it on upsidedown , i fliped it over and it bolted right up . thanks

JJ67SS
Aug 30th, 06, 12:28 AM
Glad I was helpful. Did you use screws or decide to bolt them in? I bolted mine in since I got the HEAVY DUTY front swap bar - it's seemed pretty heavy.

I completed the install today. I ran into a slight problem on the driver side with the rearward bolt. It seems that the steering box area is boxed in (inside the frame rail) to provide better support for attaching the steering gear. That also happens to be the area directly above where I was trying to bolt in the driver side sway bar. I decided to drill right through the boxed in area, purchase a longer bolt and catch the lock washer and bolt on the inside above the boxed in area.

Ed_64SS
Aug 30th, 06, 10:51 PM
Given the force that a larger sway bar exerts on the brackets, it justs make sense to place a washer, lock washer and nut on the end of that bolt. Especially the area around the steering box bolt which is extremely susceptible to rust. It's little tricky to get in there, but I think that extra insurance is worth it.

Also, make sure you check the clearance of your tie rods and idler arm. Larger sway bars have been known to be a bit of an issue at times in those areas.

Just my 2 cents.

JJ67SS
Aug 31st, 06, 12:13 AM
I also figured that Ed_64SS - between the weight and force it was bolt & nut time for the sway bar. It was quite tricky getting the washers & nut threaded on the bolt but it should more stable in the long run. I would HATE to be running down the road one evening and run over my own sway bar - how embarassing.....