LucasM
Nov 13th, 03, 8:54 PM
i soaked the two on the front of the cab (#2 position?) in liquid wrench, but both broke loose, the driver's side hardly needed any torque.
what is the best way to remove these?
is there any reason why i cant put a couple welds on one side on the cage nut? would that do the trick?
im already uneasy about touching the rest of the bushings. :(
Got_CID?
Nov 13th, 03, 9:07 PM
My two front ones busted off too. Just get a wrench big enough to fit the end of the nut. The bolts will probably break, but if you're going that far you're probably replacing them anyways. My two front ones were about half the diameter they originally were...ate up by rust so bad. The rest of the body bolts came out like a charm.
Umass
Nov 13th, 03, 11:27 PM
I have been removing all the cage nuts on my 67 and adding in a piece of square tube that goues through the top sheet metal right down to the brace that the nut sits on I then weld the tube in so that i have a direct shot at the nut from inside the car or from the top I can then just use two rachets from top and bottom to remove or tighten my body mount bolts. you can just grind it flush with the floor or make a plug to fill the hole its covered by carpet mostly anyway.
LucasM
Nov 13th, 03, 11:51 PM
thanks for replying fellas.
Justin,
i didnt have a wrench big enough, but ill find one and give it a try.
i hope i have the same luck as you with the remaining bushings.
Umass,
interesting idea.
i imagine ill at the least drill a hole above the remaining nut/bolts to soak with Liquid Wrench.
Got_CID?
Nov 14th, 03, 7:29 PM
I snapped a pic of one of my front 2 body bolts. This was an Arizona car too and look how bad the bolt is ate away. You can see where it busted right at that narrow spot. Makes me feel much safer knowing that all the body bolts are going in brand new.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid88/p6c763092f8424cc272171b0983b245d1/fa8fbe0f.jpg
LucasM
Nov 14th, 03, 7:57 PM
mine looked just as bad, Justin.
i got em out. the two front bolts stretched a ton when i put the impact to them. i was planning on taking a few snap shots also. one seemed to look like it rusted the threads and some of the shank off, right above the washer, where it would be hidden by the rubber bushings, just like yours.
it was deceiving cause the top of the bolts didnt look bad at all.
i got the rest out. the #6 positions were rusted like hell, since the trunk is swiss cheese. im putting off finishing the new motor to finally fix the truck and ill have to buy/make new buckets for the #6 bushings to tighten to.
i didnt finish the job tonight cause i didnt get new bolts...
do most people buy just replacement bolts? or would stainless steel work better in the fight against any further rust?
thanks again.
Got_CID?
Nov 14th, 03, 9:13 PM
You'd probably be fine with replacement bolts...I'm just going to buy the bushing and bolt kit from Ground Up. $100 for the whole set.
TAGMAN444
Nov 15th, 03, 8:08 PM
LucasM, I just removed the body bolts from my orginal untouched 68 chevelle. The #2 nuts on my car is not caged or welded in place. I takes a 1 inch wrench inside the firewall opening to hold it from moving. I am afraid if they are stationary, then aligement would be harder. Just my two cents worth.
cortez
Nov 16th, 03, 10:55 PM
I HAVE HEARD THAT AN IMPACT IS BETTER TO USE ON THE BOLTS THAN A PLAIN RATCHET, ANYONE TRIED THIS?