Hey guys I posted about some crossmember damage on my elky with pic is the brakes and suspension forum but was hoping maybe I could catch one of the experts in here to take a look at it because I have gotten no responses.. Thanks
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/Forum7/HTML/004669.html

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Tom
1966 Super Sport (http://chevelles.com/showroom/myss.jpg) Now striped frame off Project
1967 Malibu (http://chevelles.com/showroom/hot66ss4) Getting there.
1970 Hugger Orange elco (http://members.aol.com/chvellss//newelco.jpg) 350/350 soon to be semi daily driver.
1997 Dodge ram FOR SALE
2002 Silverado LT ext cab (runs 15.2's) daily driver

Team Chevelle member #262

WOW, IT"S UGLY!!! The damage appears to be a combination of impact damage, metal fatigue and possibly corrosion on bottom left (drivers) side.
Impact damage can be repaired in a permanant manner. The fatigue and corrosion present a serious problem. If there is the possibliity of additional damage in other areas of frame, replace frame. The crossmember is NOT a good candidate for repair. Also very difficult to replace that component in one piece. Usually you would have to go as far back as factory split below door hinge area. If you can secure a good frame, at a reasonable price, that would be the way to go. Otherwise consider sectioning at factory seam at hinge area. Keep in mind that you can probably change frame yourself, as opposed to paying a skilled frame person to section front. Labor cost to section, in our area would be at least $800.00 to $1000.00 minimum. That is with driveline out, as in your picture. Karl

There is no corrosion, its just surface rust, i can take it off with some 100 grit sand paper. there is no other damage to the frame. i think i will go ahead and weld in a 1/4 inch think plate on the bottom of the crossmember, i dont think its causing any problems the way it is, its just ugly

thanks

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Tom
1966 Super Sport (http://chevelles.com/showroom/myss.jpg) Now striped frame off Project
1967 Malibu (http://chevelles.com/showroom/hot66ss4) Getting there.
1970 Hugger Orange elco (http://members.aol.com/chvellss//newelco.jpg) 350/350 soon to be semi daily driver.
1997 Dodge ram FOR SALE
2002 Silverado LT ext cab (runs 15.2's) daily driver

Team Chevelle member #262

Tom, you asked for advice from the "experts" Karl is an EXPERT, and here is advice from another one.

That crossmemeber looks VERY BADLY DAMAGED, it looks like it is distorted, which would pull in the lower control arms and throw off the steering and suspention geometry. And it looks VERY WEAK. Now, if you want to blow off good advice, that is your business. But I would take it to a shop and let them see what can be done. Your second guessing what has been told to you, frankly scares me.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MARTINSR:
Tom, you asked for advice from the "experts" Karl is an EXPERT, and here is advice from another one.

That crossmemeber looks VERY BADLY DAMAGED, it looks like it is distorted, which would pull in the lower control arms and throw off the steering and suspention geometry. And it looks VERY WEAK. Now, if you want to blow off good advice, that is your business. But I would take it to a shop and let them see what can be done. Your second guessing what has been told to you, frankly scares me.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You absolutely right, i guess I'm in denial. here is another shot, not a good one, you see how many shims are in the control arms? is that what your talking about? i will get a hold of someone qualified in the area to come take a look at it in person and see what should be done. man i this is the last thing i needed. dammit

Thanks
http://members.aol.com/chvellss/frame3.jpg


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Tom
1966 Super Sport (http://chevelles.com/showroom/myss.jpg) Now striped frame off Project
1967 Malibu (http://chevelles.com/showroom/hot66ss4) Getting there.
1970 Hugger Orange elco (http://members.aol.com/chvellss//newelco.jpg) 350/350 soon to be semi daily driver.
1997 Dodge ram FOR SALE
2002 Silverado LT ext cab (runs 15.2's) daily driver

Team Chevelle member #262

[This message has been edited by Hot66ss (edited 09-16-2002).]

If you lived near iowa i have a frame surface jig fixture which i have used to build race cars on the chevelle frame. I have all the attachments to make sure the frame is straight and square. Replacing a horn, crossmember or a frame rail is no problem as long as the body is off. Stubbing the front part of frame at the frame rail seam is no big deal either.

it would seem to me, that the best option if i were faced with this, i would find another frame. restore it then just swap them out. i would not even mess with that one. whatever caused that damage must certainly have stressed other parts of the frame. by the time you add up repair costs you could get another frame and restore it real nicly while its off and easily accessed.

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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder. :) Just let me apolagize for my spelling right now!
www.EINSTYN.com (http://www.EINSTYN.com) updated 8-22-02 TC#1460, VCEA#2
68-72 Wagon resto & mod info, parts & sales.

Tom, you are right that is a lot of shims. The were added to get more positive caster. Why they wanted so much caster, I don't know. When the car is lowered as much as yours was, a lot of shims are needed to retain the camber, why these were needed (wanted?) for caster, who knows.

It would seem to me if the crossmember was bent back like it looks the lower control arms would be pulled in at the front. If that was the case you would need less caster to correct it, so the shims I see don't make sense.

When I see something like that, all I can say is you need to start looking at it very seriously, who knows what else was done.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Tom, my concern on the crossmember relates to "paper thin appearance of bottom" I appears that a lot of the thickness of the material is missing. Metal tears in other areas usually result from them being overstressed. In other words the cracks are the result of a failure elsewhere. Those areas are being subjected to loads that were not intended by "the General" Trying to chase those stress cracks would be a real challenge. Underlying cause MUST be corrected. Anything can be fixed if you have time, knowledge, experience, and tools. The majority of us that participate in this hobby are limited in one or most of those areas. As stated by others, get an opinion from the best frame, suspension person in your area. Above all, when it is corrected you want a SAFE, PERMANENT fix. Thanks for the kind words MARTINSR, As a side note, my career in this industry hes been facilitating quality repairs, while I love working on cars, if I had to make a living doing the work, I would starve to death. Karl

Karl,

Funny you should say paper thin about that piece, I was under it yesterday and I could probably break it all off with my index finger. It's only slightly stronger than a coffee can, believe it or not. It really looks like the car lost a tire or something and then got dragged for a few miles with the crossmember in contact with the ground.

Mike