I finally got to the point of bleeding my brakes on my front disc conversion and am having a problem. The proportioning valve seems to be stuck and not allowing fluid to flow to the rear brakes. The instructions say to hook a test light onto the pressure switch on top to see if the valve is closed and it is! It says to lower the pressure on the unstuck side (front) and the valve should equalize automatically and the light should go out. Nothing I have done works! Any ideas?

Pat

you could try opening one of the front bleeder screws then hit the pedal hard and that might open the prop valve.

Pat...if you examine your valve,it should have a "re-set" button on it that has a rubber cover.You may need 2 helpers to do this...1 to hold pressure on the
"button"(press"in")2 to pump the pedal and 3 to open the bleeders.If the car was equipped with a brake warning light you could tell it was re-set when the light went out...seeing that this is conversion...no light?

I have tried pushing in the reset button, but didn't try pushing the brake pedal at the same time. I have a test light on the pressure switch and the light is on. I get good flow from the front bleeders, but nothing form the rear. My other thought was to disconnect the front line to the prop valve to try and equalize the pressure. Then try to bleed the whole system again if the valve opens again.

OK... 1 helper will suffice.. push button/pump pedal till test light goes out.
then your ready to bleed.

I finally got the prop valve "centered" again and got fluid to the rears. I did try everyone's suggestions, but couldn't get the brake light to go off. I called the mfg and they told me to pull the rear line and push the piston back into the center position with a screwdriver. I finally got it working and took it for a quick spin and the new disc's are awesome. I checked the fluid in the master and the rear was way low. The line that goes across the rear has a pinhole and is now spraying fluid all over the place. I guess it's time to replace the 3 lines to the rear that are original. 2 steps forward.......5 back.

Thanks for everybody's help........

Pat

If you have a leak in the rear line. You will probably have to reset the prop valve again too.

Aren't those Northeast version brakelines a blast??(rust and more rust!:()

Being from Rochester, I'm sure you can feel my pain!

Hey...anything is possible...but...shouldn't that valve be spring-loaded and self-centering?

If you have to screw with it to get it to pass fluid, I'd be concerned that it's corroded internally causing the piston to stick.