I went to the track Friday. It was the first trip to a 1/4 mile track with the new combo. I made 5 passes, making suspension adjustments each pass. I have MT 315 ET Street Drag radials, single adjustable QA 1 rear shocks, Edelbrock adjustable upper arms, SSM lower arms, Anti-roll bar, Moroso trick front springs, stock a-arms, CE front shocks. My final pass was with the shocks set at 10 clicks firm, and I made 1 turn shorter on the drivers upper arm and 1/2 turn on the passenger upper arm. I am leaving on the trans brake with the 2-step at 3100 rpm's.

That pass was 1.495 60, 4.126 330, 6.351@110.19 660, 8.28 1000, 9.93@136.01 1/4.

I think I am still missing about a tenth in the 60. It has done a best of 1.43 with a converter that wasn't hitting as hard. I am changing to Tubular A arms and ordered QA1 coil over front shocks, but now a friend told me that the Moroso Trick front springs seem to work better, so i guess I will cancel the coil overs and just get the front a-arms and shocks.

Questions:

Maby a little less timing to soften the hit? Currently 36

Remove Southside lowering brackets and put the lower arm to stock location to move the IC forward? Current IC is 29"

Soften or firm the rear shock?

I know these cars can go sub 1.40 60' and that should equate to another 1.5 to 2 tenths in the 1/4. Thanks for the help!

I went to the track Friday. It was the first trip to a 1/4 mile track with the new combo. I made 5 passes, making suspension adjustments each pass. I have MT 315 ET Street Drag radials, single adjustable QA 1 rear shocks, Edelbrock adjustable upper arms, SSM lower arms, Anti-roll bar, Moroso trick front springs, stock a-arms, CE front shocks. My final pass was with the shocks set at 10 clicks firm, and I made 1 turn shorter on the drivers upper arm and 1/2 turn on the passenger upper arm. I am leaving on the trans brake with the 2-step at 3100 rpm's.

That pass was 1.495 60, 4.126 330, 6.351@110.19 660, 8.28 1000, 9.93@136.01 1/4.

I think I am still missing about a tenth in the 60. It has done a best of 1.43 with a converter that wasn't hitting as hard. I am changing to Tubular A arms and ordered QA1 coil over front shocks, but now a friend told me that the Moroso Trick front springs seem to work better, so i guess I will cancel the coil overs and just get the front a-arms and shocks.

Questions:

Maby a little less timing to soften the hit? Currently 36

Remove Southside lowering brackets and put the lower arm to stock location to move the IC forward? Current IC is 29"

Soften or firm the rear shock?

I know these cars can go sub 1.40 60' and that should equate to another 1.5 to 2 tenths in the 1/4. Thanks for the help! Are the Radial Slicks trying to wrinkle? My son ran some recently for a special race and said they were very violent. He had to add air to about 18 lbs. and soften the compression of the rear shocks to soften the hit on the tires. They bit when he upped the air went out a ways then tried to wheelstand before rattling the tires and breaking the sprag in the tranny when it shifted into second.

Harold, I started at 12 pounds and they did wrinkle and rattle the tires. I upped the air pressure to 16 and that seemed to help. Then we stiffened the shocks to slow the rate of rise on the rear of the car. That again helped some. I ordered a set of bias ply slicks and will try again, but if you r anyone else has suggestions, I am open.

Hey Don,Dont go to a slick.Your car rips.I really think that with the 9" rear end and having the lowers lowered down you are hitting the tire to hard.My car will be down for a while.I let you borrow my double adjustable rear shocks and make some changes from their.When you insall all your front arms and coils that will make a difference too.I say put timing to 28 degrees and throw a 250 kit to it and grab it 1-2 seconds out.I broke something in the back of my car.Waiting till james gets back to unload from his trailer.Ive been way out of the groove before and the car has never turned so violent to the left.I have a book you can borrow that will help you out.Take care...

You said is was better 60' with softer converter, not that having the lighter A Arms won't help, but maybe look back to soften the hit, perhaps by changing the lower mounts. I don't know IC ## off the top of my head by I know cars with those lower brackets hit hard. I have the "no Hop" style bars and moved to the middle hole for the same reason.

Dick miller told me that the SSM bars hit the tires to hard. I am haveing some traction issues too with SSM bars but not nearly the power you are putting out. But My MT Drag Radials helped alot. I was spinning off the line with the old ET Street Bias plies but now I spin when I hit second gear. I think I am hitting the tires to hard and then Unloading the suspension. I plan to modify the SSM bar brackets and maybe put the front sway bar back on.

SSM bars suck. So do QA-1 shocks. You want Koni SPA-1 shocks or the koni street shock. Moroso trick front springs are junk as well. Put the lowest rate longest Moog spring in there that will support your front end weight. The tubular front a arms are a waste of money. The stock a arms are fine. Get the right bushings. Get the right bushings and then you will see just how crappy the Moroso springs are when your front end is on the bump stops;) :D .

The problem with the QA-1 single adjustables as I understand them is as you tighten the extension the compression softens which is what you don't want. These cars need a lot of compression. The extension needs to be pretty stiff, but if the compression is too soft you will have problems unloading the tire as the tire bounces back up into the wheel well. Don't let the IC get too high as this will cause excessive body separation and just make this problem worse, which is exactly what the SSM bars do.

SSM bars suck. So do QA-1 shocks. You want Koni SPA-1 shocks or the koni street shock. Moroso trick front springs are junk as well. Put the lowest rate longest Moog spring in there that will support your front end weight. The tubular front a arms are a waste of money. The stock a arms are fine. Get the right bushings. Get the right bushings and then you will see just how crappy the Moroso springs are when your front end is on the bump stops;) :D .

The problem with the QA-1 single adjustables as I understand them is as you tighten the extension the compression softens which is what you don't want. These cars need a lot of compression. The extension needs to be pretty stiff, but if the compression is too soft you will have problems unloading the tire as the tire bounces back up into the wheel well. Don't let the IC get too high as this will cause excessive body separation and just make this problem worse, which is exactly what the SSM bars do.


I agree it is hitting th etires too hard. I am goig to move the lower bars to the stock position on the rearend. That will move the IC forward and lower. From there we will see what else needs changed.