hello

planning to start the bodywork on my velle here.. had some questions for you all. The situation is like this: the car is my only car and is driven so i was thinkin of doing the work piece by piece, there's a bunch of bad spots, shoddy old repairs, etc. in the usal places for a 72. Since I will not be able to gather up appropriate resources (i.e. money) for a few years for the final paint job, the work I do now will have to be effectively 'sealed up' until then. My understanding of the best way to do this is as follows, please give some advice if there's a better way:

1. abrade bubbled up, flakey metal areas to expose the extent of the rust, cut away diseased metal

2. prepare a patch panel of sufficient size and coat backside with DP epoxy primer and some topcoat (what topcoat?)

3. 'bend in' existing panel at the patch area so filler can be applied on both the patch and existing panel to eliminate a line at the boundary

4. glue in patch.. none of the areas are structural so i was going to go with either 3M panel bonding adhesive or fusor.. any suggestions? apparently the aplicator gun for 3Ms stuff has to be bought?

5. DPLF epoxy primer

6. filler

7. primer surfacer

8. UV protective topcoat

Will this stand up to the elements? From my research it seems the DP is the way to go, although i've heard much about urethanes well. Problem is, I am one of those poor college students with no money for a gun and compressor.. the PPG guys say people have had results with brushing the stuff but no tests on their end thats not what its designed for.. and pure chevelle experience? If this is not recommended, is there anyone in western VA with the equipment who wouldn't mind helping me get this velle looking pristine again? thanks for anything.. you guys and this site are the best

Dan

First of all you should never brush on paint to any car, maybe an old tractor but not a nice chevelle. I think the PPG rep might have be joking you could actually brush it on, but you would waste a lot of material doing so.

Weld in panels, don't use glue. The glue is good for mating surfaces and is not really recommended to glue in a panel. I am sure you could but what happens if you accidentally push the panel inside.

Search for some other posts on each of these topics.

I dont think that you understand the glue he's talking about. The Panel Glue hes talking about is TOUGHER Than the metal it holds together. It's not just "glue". I am also curious about this Fusor product, and am also inclined to try it out- its really not all that expensive from what I understand, and you DONT have to weld anything. The point is there is NO WAY you can push that panel out if having used the Fusor glue correctly.

As for "brushing" on primer, that is ALSO something new. PPG has a primer now that can be brushed on- (I believe you do it with a special roller?).72Vellepilot has obviously done some homework here.

72Vellepilot - try out your plan. If you have done enough research to get to this point you will probably be able to pull off a pretty nice job using these "new" and unconventional, yet viable methods. If you find out more about the Fusor and whats required to use it, please post! Good Luck

We CAN have differing opinions. I understand the glue he is using is designed for body panels, I just prefer good ol molten lava. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

Would you glue a 1/4 panel with this stuff or spot weld it and then use seam sealer? I "think"(my opinion) welding is a better approach and better long term. I am sure the new glue's they have out now are wonderful. Just stay away from Elmers for body repair

Here's a suggestion that might fit your wallet. Around here I know a few college-aged guys who traded elbow grease for use of paint booth/tools.

Ask around local muscle car guys who does the best work. Usually this guy has more work than he can handle. But works at his own speed forsaking quantity and $$ for quality. Odds are, he might be a cranky S.O.B. with a sharp tongue & no patience for B.S.

Stop in, without your car, approach this guy about your desire to learn about body work. If you get lucky he'll ask if you have a project? Let him know you'd like to learn, if he needs an extra hand. Be prepared to do the any meanial tasks. In fact, volunteer to do 'em.

(I doubt he will want to disinterest a muscle car-type young person to the ricer-winged-car crowd.)

I went this route to get my fenders repaired on my 70 Chevelle. Except, I did some parts-pickup for him and scouted out some deals he didn't have time to go look for.

WARNING, if this guys is worth his salt he can spot B.S. a mile away. Be honest to a fault about your intentions!

But above all DO NOT PUSH to get to work on your own car above a paying customer. I know I learned more about my Chevelle than I could have ever learned from a book when I dropped by this guy's shop.

On a sad note, the guy I am taking about has terminal cancer. I talked him into joining this site last year. I haven't been able to see him in a couple months because of his rapid decline.

I doubt if you ever read this Carl Y., but I'm glad I got to know you. Thanks man.
DG

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Springfield, Ohio

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>name: D.G. & my 70 Malibu
<LI>http://www.wright.edu/~adams.41/chevy.htm
<LI>TEAM Chevelle Member #0086
<LI>eBay username: dg98adams
<LI>"Failure is not an option. It's bundled with your software"
[/list]

Originally I was considering 3M's panel bonding adhesive. They are very firm in stating it is NOT to be used for structural components, i.e. front and rear rails, core supports, posts and pillars, floor pans, etc. but instead on outer body sheet metal. Unfortuantely, the applicator gun is in the neighborhood of $400. Therefore, I think Fusor is the way, their gun is $30 and a nearby paint shop even will loan them out for free.
JU87: yes, some PPG primer can be rolled on with a new special roller, this is the primer surfacer however, not the DP. As far as brushing the DP, they do not do any tests specifically due to the non-uniform build up and appearence. Chemically however, brushing is equivalent. After speaking with a few different reps, I am fairly confident that i will be able to obtain the corrosion resistance necessary. The drawback is in the rough finish but since body filler is going over the primer anyway, this is can be neglected... DG, apprenticing for a seasoned body man would be ideal, although I think its harder to find those sorts of situations more and more. I'll look into it though and see what happens.

Dan

72Vellepilot

I have to respect your unconventional thinking! I know that DP "shouldn't" be sprayed on or rolled on, but who says it "can't be". If someone has done it with satisfactory results, GIVE IT A TRY! Thanks for the Fusor prices- $30 for the applicator!? I'm gonna give a jobber around here call and seee what I can come up with! 3M stuff is usually much more than competitors anyway. It's funny about the DP though- I was told that PPG quit making it, but obviously not.

hey 72 velle flyer...

send me an e-mail.

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70 and 72 Chevelle
ACES # 4051 MCC # 448
TC # 1549 81/70 Cruisers