A little back ground first. Got the block back from the machine shop (402 +.030). After cleaning, installled the crank dry for plastiguage checking. All main caps came out between .0015 and .002. Removed, oils bearings, and put crank back in. Spins freely by hand. Started putting in my pistons. Aligned rings gaps per book, dunked pistons in coffee can of oil, compressed the rings with a ratcheting type of ring compressor, and coated bore with oil. I then started the pistons in the bore by tapping them in with a small hammer handle. I did feel some resistance as the rings each entered the bore, but I didn't have to hit the piston very hard at all to get them in. On a couple of occasions, the piston would stop and I could tell it wasn't going it in anymore, so I started over. I could then lightly tap each piston down in the bore to mate with the crank.

So now I have all the pistons in and I'm a little worried about the resistance I felt and hope I didn't knock a ring out or break one for that matter. All pistons felt like they had the same resistance once in the bores, but some did take a little persistance and heavier tapping to get in initially. With all the pistons in, the motor turns over fine, but takes 47 ft lbs on my torque wrench to get spinning. Does that sound right?

I did check the ring gap on a couple of compression rings and it was fine. the oil expander? ring has the ends butted (green and red) together, not overlapped.

From turning the motor over several times, I do see some black verticle marks on the cylinder walls on a few bores. I can rub on these marks, and wipe some of the mark away, but not completely. I cannot feel these marks at all.

Do i have anything to worry about? Should I pull the pistons and start over?

Thanks.

what MAY have happened on installation was that the rings were popping out a bit between the block and the ring compressor sleeve. If they didnt chamfer the cylinder tops well enough installation can be a beeoch. However you will see some of the lines on che cylinders as this is the rings raw against the walls, and untill you get correct oil pressure you will see this.

When in doubt...........whip it out! Actually ( now this is just another opinion...not the best , not the worst) std. tension rings are a real drag ( pun intended) and breakaway torque to turn the assembled shortblock will be significant ( hence , low tension rings in race motors) . Black marks are probably from ends of comp rings not being stoned.........dont worry about it though. Shelf rings for most if not all combinations that are not file fit have generous gaps ..........I always chuck the plastic pieces on the expanders. Did I spell everything right..............I'm pretty dumb................waaasup Bill!

I didn't have any plastic things on the expanders. Am I missing something? They are speed pro rings and pistons.

I didn't have any plastic things on the expanders. Am I missing something? They are speed pro rings and pistons.


maybe you didnt notice.........they may not have been there...........either way.....no big deal

47lbs. is a little on the high side expecially if you don't have the valvetrain installed.

It could be due to a coarse finish on the cylinder walls depending what stone grit your machinist finished the walls with.

My 540 took 25lbs to break loose and 15-20lbs to maintain rotation. This is with standard tension Speed Pro Plasma rings, and .005 piston to wall with ATF on the walls and rings.
I used a 400 grit finish stone followed with 4-5 passes with a plateau brush at medium pressure.
The 489 i just built took 22 to break and 15-18 to maintain with Perfect Circle plasma rings and the same wall finish proceedure as my 540.

I wouldn't worry too much. After oiling the pistons like you did, it may need the coarser finish on the walls to allow proper ring seating.

Randy