Hello I am about to start my very first resto. Besides the fact that my frame is bad. My 1969 Chevelle is a vynil top car from Conneticut. Thanks the the vynil top my filler panel is "crunchy" so I need one of them. Also it is rusty at the very bottom of the sail panels, Thus making the need for full quarters that much more great. Needs Inner and outer tubs, fenders, door skins, and nic nacs. It needs full floors, but under the rear seat seems to be ok. I purchased the toe panels and full driver and passenger floors already. I am going to try to get a picture of my trouble spot and post it later. It's the level part of the the trunk that butts up to the backseat divider. it has a couple holes. Is it ok to just patch that? Any suggestions would be wonderful. The replacement trunk pans do not go high enough. But what I would like to know is what panel do I cut first? do I replace the floors? or 1/4s first? or what? I figured that since alot of you folks on here have really rare and nice cars that you would know. Thanks in advance.


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Amazing, after all this time she still runs.

i recommend doing the frame last just when you have the floor off make sure you could get the bolts out underneath the floor to the body they are usually rusted solid so take them out and replace the cage nuts if necessary. the reason i would do the frame last is because all the crap that falls out of the quaters and floors will end up on the frame if you do the frame first it will get messed up. the other thing is remove and replace one panel at a time dont take to much off at once because the body will get out of whack if your not carreful so do the floors then each quater and tub separately so you have the best shot to keep the body aligned

First place to start is the bank. Price it out and then add 50% and two years. But do it right and take your time. It always cost less to do it once right then twice wrong.

Good luck

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TC# 1458
1971 El Camino
"What do you mean 'junk'? Its a classic."

"filler panel is "crunchy" so I need one of them. Also it is rusty at the very bottom of the sail panels, Thus making the need for full quarters that much more great. Needs Inner and outer tubs, fenders, door skins, and nic nacs. It needs full floors, level part of the the trunk that butts up to the backseat divider."

If your car is a Yenko Chevelle 1969, I'd say keep it and knock yourself out. BUT if it is a Malibu ie. "more common" (no offense, all- couldn't think of the right words :P ) model, you might be better off to get another car to work on.

What you describe is A LOT of rust, and there is probably more rust tacked on to that rust. If it needed "just" front floor patches and a 1/4 panel, and the rest was OK, it'd be worth it. BUT if you are describing your car as best you can rust wise, you might give it a long hard look...... Do what you can with it and drive it around- DO NOT dissassemble it to where it can't be moved or you'll lose interest in it overnight. NO offense intended, but again, what you describe is A LOT of rust http://www.chevelles.com/forum/frown.gif

Welcome to the board YC69. Let me be the first to say that you got your money's worth on your very first post. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif If you heed the advice given http://www.chevelles.com/forum/wink.gif
JU87 is right on the money, find out exactly what you have before you spend another nickel on this car. Without proof that the car is a Yenko you could be throwing good money after bad...and unless things have changed since I was a student having any money was a good thing. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

Check out the Tag Team forum for some help decoding you cowl tag that might give you some clues about the authenticity of your car.
Good Luck


<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by YenkoChevelle69:

Hello I am about to start my very first resto. Besides the fact that my frame is bad.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>



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TC #364
Aces #4309
Jeff's 69 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/daytonajeff1.jpg)

Good Call on your quote Daytona Jeff!!

I didn't even see that about his frame in his post!

YenkoChevelle69, NOW REALLLY take a LOOOOOONG look at this car... is that just your nickname for the board (hey- thats a cool car, and a cool nic) OR is your car REALLY a Yenko? IMHO, the whole decision about restoring this car rides on that fact. YES its a YENKO? Boy, its still gonna be a tough call with all that rust. NO its not a YENKO- get a better car- PERIOD.

Lord no it's not a yenko. I wish. I am the second owner tho. And have 3 inches of paper work on it. Included are the Pop, invoice, order form, I am digging out the build sheet tomorrow. IT has all the upkeep records. truly amazing. The original owner died in march. I just want to restore it. How hard are floors to do? I want to attempt them. I know 1/4s are a pain. I have all the floor replacement panels. Wanna give it a try tho.

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Amazing, after all this time she still runs.

Well, Floors and 1/4s are both a pain, but unfortunately are par for the course when it comes to old cars- Nova, Chevelle, Camaro, etc. in the salt belt AND THE SW- dont be fooled- most have some extent of those problems. It sounds like you have a well documented car, BUT when you are talking about the amount of rust repair that you described- and don't think this meant to be nasty- it really doesnt matter UNLESS its some sort of rare car. This is not because your car is worthless- its not. Its just that the money you spend on the extent of rust repair needed on your car will MANY TIMES eclipse the ultimate value of the car and the value that the documentation DOES ADD.

If you described the car correctly, and i suspect you did- its just too much rust to justify (to YOURSELF- you are doing the work) repairing. ESPECIALLY when it comes to a rusty frame- not being a Yenko, it should really be an easy decision for you to search for a better candidate. Not that Yenkos are the only ones worth restoring- its just your name caused some confusion http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif ! Better candidate does NOT mean perfect; if you can find one though- good for you! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif . It can have the "usual Chevy Rust" and still be very restorable. I am all for DIY cars and the pride one gets from doing it yourself, BUT Rusted through Frames and rust in more than normal quantities are another story ..

It would be great to restore every Chevy muscle car ever made- but it just isnt possible. Some of them are just too far gone and would be safer put out to pasture than endangering YOUR or OTHERS lives with rusty frames and who knows what else. As posted earlier- take a LOOOOOOOOOONG hard look at that car and do some searching here on the repairs and on rust- it may open your eyes a little. Good luck either way

[This message has been edited by JU87 (edited 08-11-2002).]

[This message has been edited by JU87 (edited 08-11-2002).]

take a look at me current 70 chevelle. just click on the link at the bottom, if that looks that something fun to you then go right ahead and restore that car. But if it doesnt look fun or easy then I would highly suggest you dump the car and buy a better one. I have way to much money wrapped in it and to much time. I have around 4 years in the car off and on and still more to go. I would never do another chevelle with that much damage again. Its not easy and not something that can be done in a year or in a one car garage. You must have plenty of room, patience, money, skill and tools. I do body work for a living and restoring this car by far was the biggest headache Ive ever done, I would much rather do a truck rolled in a ball then do another car like that.

The only orginal parts on my car is the roof, everything else is new used or nos and not cheap.

how hard are floors to do?? Very hard when you have nothing to work with, the way you describe the thing it sounds like mine, I had nothing. Do yourself and your wallet a big favor and sell the car and look for another car that is in restorable shape...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

I agree with all but the costs (not only $ but your free time) I bought my 71-SS454 and was rotted like yours. I found a donor body in near perfect condition NO RUST. I have worked on it non stop every weekend since 11/01. I would(could) not attempt to do any real metal work myself. I just had it blasted and I have done the filler/primer/paint myself. Cost 3x what I estimated and 10x longer and it was a relativly simple project compared to yours. For the first one, I would get one that just needs finishing. Look for a abandoned project that someone else started. If I had stopped, I would probably never have finished mine.

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71 SS-454 El Camino

[This message has been edited by caddpro (edited 08-12-2002).]

I see what you guys are saying. Would be nice to find a
near rust free shell from out west to transfer the drive train and interior over to. You all have been a big help and I appreciate it very much. I think I have decided to wait and find another body. Any good websites out there for desert cars? Besides DVAP? Thanks again!


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Amazing, after all this time she still runs.

DVAP?! Are you kidding me! You need to take a closer look at those cars on that website! They are "rust free" yet have clearly visible areas of rust out as well as AWFUL examples of bondified panels. Look- the cars in the Southwest Rust like every other car on the face of the earth does. It does rain in the desert. The cars just rust SLOWER, and POOR bodywork lasts alot longer- but it will eventually rear its ugly head with bubbles and blisters. Yes, there are rust free examples of old cars. They aint cheap though, and usually they are either "less desirables" ie. 307 or I6 cars or the most desirable examples- ie. SS454 etc. The middle of the road cars are very restorable but not usually rust free for cheap.

IF this is your first resto are you really willing to go through all that trouble just to save this '69 Chevelle? Shipping car bodies, traveling out west to look at the car you are buying? Moving one body of one car onto the frame of another car? All to save one '69 Chevelle?! MAN- that is one complicated FIRST TIME resto that will more than likely end up like other first time restos do where someone gets in WAYYY over their head. Really- find a better car NEAR you- it can be done, it will take some time.

Also, I dont know where you are from, but in my neck of teh woods they inspect for swapped frames and vins before they even get registered. IMHO, frame swapping is risky business that really should be left to teh race crowd because they are not licensed anyway. Not trying to discourage you from doing a resto, but you really should reevaluate your game plan for a first time resto because it is WAAAAY to complicated.

[This message has been edited by JU87 (edited 08-13-2002).]

I think you are taking something way out of left field. First of all to answer your question....I am from KY and they could care less what you do. ANd second I was planning on getting a rust free body and use this chevelle as a parts car. Ei. transfer the drive train and interior.

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Amazing, after all this time she still runs.

I'm not taking anything out of left field...SOmeone can only respond to a post from what information is contained in that post- I seriously doubt that any one here is a mind reader and knew what plans you had for YOUR car. As for KY not caring what you do, GREAT, good for KY. I'm glad any hooptie with wheels can tool around the state putting peoples lives in danger because someone had a project car they just wanted to slap together and go for a drive.

Once again, I will respond to what you have posted. I agree with using your car as a parts car- it sounds too rusty (from YOUR description, NOT MINE) to even consider fixing. I agree; use the parts- part it out and use the money to buy a better WHOLE car. It is common knowledge in this hobby that it is far better for project "morale" to have something you can drive around WHILE working on it. If you want two basket cases (one bought, one created) sitting around your front or backyard as a first time restoration, HAVE AT IT. Its your money and time- you wanted thoughts on the subject, you came to the right place. However, whats the point of getting disgruntled because someone posts something that you didn't want to read as a result of your description of your project and your car.

BUT- its your car, money, and time- DO AS YOU PLEASE

[This message has been edited by JU87 (edited 08-13-2002).]

I just wanted to say that it also depends on what you like doing. If you want to drive the car, then that's not the one for you. If you're more into building and want some challenging work to do go for restoring that car.

Personally, I like building more than driving so I'm always looking for something to do with a car. I don't regret doing the amount of work you're talking about on the Impala I'm presently working on.

Also, they only made so many of these cars and every one that gets parted out or scrapped is one less forever.

Peter

lol,

I am on my first resto as well. Full body off restoration. I wouldn't want a classic car any other way, but darn, is it easy to lose interest! I am actually putting stuff back together though, so I think that I may be able to pull it off. Best of luck on your attempt as well!

Nat

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Restorin' a '69 Malibu/SS Clone
396 - .030 over
Complete Performer Package, Closed Chamber Oval Heads, and way to much invested.
700-R4, Bow Tie or Phoenix?
New Front Brakes!
And frame is bare right now, reassambled soon!

I'm throwing in my two cents. I'm 4 years into my full body off restoration on a 68 convertible. Probably got 20K wrapped up in it, with another 5K to go.
I work on my car EVERYDAY. There are so many obstacles to overcome. Anyone that has ever done one knows what I'm talking about.
As mentioned in some of the above posts, you must have other transportion, variety of tools, a working area,access to other things that large industrial complexs have, money,patience,time, time, and more time. These are some of the basics. I know every single inch of my car. I would never trade the experience I've gained by working on my car, but I would never do another full body off restoration again. I can't even count the number of manhours I've put into this car. It has consumed me. I want to do other things, fishing,traveling, watching the clouds roll by, etc. I have great respect for anyone who has done their OWN restoration.

Just my 02 cents!