I've decided to build another small block for my Chevelle (I know 3 in a one year is a bit much)... but I want to sell my 383 and build a larger inch small block. What is the biggest ci you have seen with a Dart Block?

The cam I plan to use is a Crower solid roller with .713/.736 lift and 316/326 duration at .050. I also plan to use Canfield heads with Yella Terra Platnum Race Rockers, a Super Victor CNC Intake and a Race Demon DR 825 carb. I will be using Aerospace Components Crank Case Evac. instead of a pcv/breather setup.

The local machine shop suggested a 447 ci displacement rather than going for a small block 454. Any suggestions? Big Bore/Long Stroke combos?

Steve

If you're going all out, go ahead and get a tall deck block with raised cam and spread pan rails. Swing a 4.250 crank in it. You will likely need some exotic heads like a Brodix -12 series to feed the engine. 4.250 stroke X 4.185 bore = 468cid

just go ahead and make the jump to big block, dropping every dime you were going to spend on the exotic small block into it and make more power with less compression.

Unless of coarse you road race it and handling is a big concern.

I've decided to build another small block for my Chevelle (I know 3 in a one year is a bit much)... but I want to sell my 383 and build a larger inch small block. What is the biggest ci you have seen with a Dart Block?

The cam I plan to use is a Crower solid roller with .713/.736 lift and 316/326 duration at .050. I also plan to use Canfield heads with Yella Terra Platnum Race Rockers, a Super Victor CNC Intake and a Race Demon DR 825 carb. I will be using Aerospace Components Crank Case Evac. instead of a pcv/breather setup.

The local machine shop suggested a 447 ci displacement rather than going for a small block 454. Any suggestions? Big Bore/Long Stroke combos?

Steve Keep the 383 and put a Procharger on it. No normally aspirated engine can make as much power as a blower motor with next to no compression and a mild cam so it's drivable. The Prochargers have their lubrication self contained and at 10-14 lbs of boost will run as hard as a really big and radically cammed engine. It's a win, win situation. And more power is just a couple of pulley changes away.

Steve...What are your performance goals? My 406 runs very low 11's and is pretty generic.(at 3600 lbs)
I know it's hard to concider switching to a BBC when you have so many SBC parts, but that's what I'm going to do, if not this winter then next.
700HP is real expensive from a SBC and longevity is an issue. While 700HP from a 560ci BBC isn't exactly cheap...but it is doable fairly easy and will last a hole season with out changing valve springs.

I just sold mine and the new owner is selling it due to change of plans. It was a 427" tall deck with 18 degree heads and fuel injection. It made about 650 hp with only 10.5: compression. Cost almost $20K to build! Might save you some money buying second hand.

Do you just want big power? Are you stuck on this build? Have you ever considered an LS1? Close power, much cheaper, much better engine!

I'd say spend the money on a big block

Depending on your intentions with this one, I do agree! If youve got any somewhat regular street duty in mind, Id be going a different direction. Sure the additional cubes will tame it up a bit for street duty, but in my opinion, not enough if you go as rad as your speaking of. Thats just my opinion though...maybe not yours. If John Forces funny car had legal tags, there is somebody out there who would drive it on the street and not mind the terrible gas mileage and street manners.....so there you go.....its a street car now hehe!

So at least for me(and many others)....it sounds like your after serious power. The sane way to do it would be big inches out of a stroked big block(489 or bigger). If you go that route, you also have the potential to use better heads....cause even the best small block heads out there within reason will not run with just the descent big block stuff(out of the box darts or whatever). And there are better ones than that(like the CNC AFR stuff for example).

Or, supercharge and average sized small block. Big power and manners! Just an opinion is all. If your totally comfortable with a rad small block and you dont mind all the stuff that goes with it, by all means, build it!

You cannot have a street motor with a cam that big. The motor I mentioned with a .690 lift solid roller had Comp cams offset solid roller lifters for the 18 degree heads, Crower shaft mounted rockers, and 998-16 springs with a 750 lb open pressure to hold down the 2.15" valves. Every summer I had to replace all the lifters, valvesprings, and rocker bearings to the tune of $1000 in parts plus my labor. NOT a street motor!

Plus it would make no sense to wear out a $15,000 motor just by driving it around town at part throttle most of the time.

Is this going to be a street motor???

What is the biggest ci you have seen with a Dart Block?


Standard deck or raised?

Standard deck or raised? :confused: :confused:

Steve,

Not the biggest you can go, but here is my example:

http://members.aol.com/jgchevelle/engine.html

Just make sure you put a big enough head on it!!!! These things need to breathe!!!

Standard deck or raised?


Okay,,,I'll bite,,,,standard deck and cam location :)

I want to build using an aftermarket, standard deck height block, an about 9.75 to 10 to 1 CR., 4.625" b x 4.375" s = 588 engine for max. stealth!

NOTHING fancy once I get by the block and a set of cheaper untouched 350 to 360 cc cast-iron heads!

I would just use a big solid cam like say, 295/255/300/260, 112/108, .625"/..625" net lift or thereabouts cam.

And say a 1050 3-barrel or Dom. carb on a Strip Dom single plane along with a set of the cheapest big-tube, 4-tube, long headers I could find that would easily fit my engine bay.

NOTHING FANCY, but I figure 700hp easy AND it WILL be a true STREET MOTOR!!

Yes, GO BB, imho too!

pdq67 and my little-bitty 496 motor.

Wow what a responce. The reason I haven't stabbed a big block in the car is that it would require me to make a lot more changes than just the motor. True there were a few (I think around 400) 65's with a 396 from the factory, but changing out my new coil overs, headers, exhaust, and everything else is something I really don't want to mess with. I like the idea of having a really nasty small block that will run with the big block cars around here. This car is purely for fun... and YES I will drive it on the street. I could care less about gas milage.. and as far as keeping up with lifters, valve adjustment etc.. I have time to mess with all that on a regular basis. As for goals at the drag strip.. I would like to run down to 11.49 with the car in stock (full interior, steel body) trim. It is running 12 flat with my 383 now. I appreciate all the suggestions, I'll be looking at them close and figuring out what I want. I do think I will be using a set of Canfield CNC'd 240 heads though. I hope that doesn't limit me too much.


Steve

May I suggest a 100 shot of N20 to reach your goal....

My friend bought the pro stock Grand Prix that my boss was running and he had to run 7`s with a small block no matter what. He built a 421 and got it to run 7.90`s broke something scored the cylinder wall and hurt the head. After the repairs never saw 7`s again. I think that the valve shrouding of sb combos and getting the heads to flow to make max power like you want can be done but it can be done much easier with power adders or by going with bb combinations that are more reliable and less money. Sorry to be going on and on but he ended up going bb went faster for less money. Good luck with your decision.

I am not sure if I am stubborn or if I just like a challenge... possibly both. I won't be trying to get to the 7's or even 10's so I am hoping it'll be doable. I'd like my car to get to 11.49 without a power adder. I'd be more inclined to use a procharger than NOS only because I no NOTHING about setting up a system to run properly and not burn anything up. Thanks for all the replies,

Steve

you should be able to do that pretty easy with the motor you already have. I remember seeing your specs on a old post and it should be enough motor to get 11.49 on the motor. Hell I know a guy with a 11:1 355 with a Isky roller with 260@.050 that was running 11.50`s. I would try to get every last bit from your current set up before changing motors.

Steve,

My old 10.31:1 - 383 SBC ran 7.30's @ ~94 MPH (1/8th mile) @ 3600 lbs. with a 1.60 - 60' time. The converter was about 1200-1500 RPM too tight as well (4200 flash, needed 5500 RPM).

You should be able to hit a 11.49 tweaking what you have. Remind us again of your combo?

You definetly dont need a 454 small block to run 11.50's

The podunk track we run at DA seems like it's always over 4000'. We have racers that race 150 miles away at SAC and say our track is consistantly .3 slower.

In October and May we see some decent conditions...but it always seems like I'm chasing the tune up when the good weather comes.

Big Jim,
I am headed to San Diego this AM, but will be back on Thursday. I have to pull the motor in the Chevelle to replace the oil pan. (It was at a local shop and the guy jacked my car up on the oil pan and crushed the front of it) While I have it out I plan to swap oil pickups and check bearings for any wear. I should have it back in the car on Friday and be out at the track to race Friday Night. I just put on QA1 shocks in the rear as well as QA1 R series coil overs in the front so I'll be tuning suspension. Doug Reed is going to bring out his 8 second 66 El Camino and he'll be helping me. I am going to be doing tech and racing. I am planning on going down to Sac and running the car in the next couple weeks.

Steve

With your goals I would suggest a 421CID engine. These are popular amount circle track engine builders and I have had several customers use the 220cc head designed by HVH and achieve the 600HP goal with an 11 to 1 engine. The 3.875" stroke will still rpm quickly and give you good stop light to stop light torque.

As far as the cam that is way to big. . .the engine would be a pig.