Hey there everyone. I just wanted to introduce myself and ask some questions from some of the more "seasoned" members and owners on here. I respect everyones advice and opinion. I am also willing to offer my two cents worth if needed.

My first question is about idle speed. I have a pretty lumpy cam (not sure of the specs right this minute), but it is idling around 600-700 in gear and the brake on. Idles around 1100 in park. It seems good to go. Does this sound about right?

Second question is about temp. My Stewart Warner electric temp gauge says I am running around 215-220. This seems a litle high to me. I had the guy at my garage check it out with an infra red temp gauge and at the sensor itself on the front of the intake, it read about 20-25 degrees cooler. Hoses themselves were around 170-180. It seems to me that the gauge itself is defective. Would running a mechanical temp gauge with sensor give a more accurate reading? I am also running a 180 high flow therm. Would all these running temps come down if I were to run a 160 high flow therm?

Third question is about brake booster. I just converted back to stock 11 inch front discs. All new items. At low idle my brake seems pretty hard. Stopping power is significantly reduced. At higher rpm it seems to be a little better. Would installing a vacuum canister make a diff? or should I install an electric vacuum pump for better vacuum pressure to my booster? Anyone know a good brand and price?

Fourth question is about iEquus gauges. I know they are cheaper but in my experience(see question two) the more expensive ones dont seem to be much better. The more I think about it, the more I think you pay for the name. Anyone have any experience with this brand of guages? They have come out with a new 6000, 7000, and 8000 series line that looks pretty good. I would also like to know if I would have problems running a nylon oil line instead of a copper one or steel braided one.

Fifth and final question for now, is about oil temp. At low idle it dips sometimes to 18-20. Averages around 25-30. At cruising speed it is around 50-60 depending on rpm. Does this sound right?

I am running a 350ci 5.7 litre bored out to 355. 10:1 compression ratio and all the goodies in the block, skat crank, spectre roller rockers, headman hedders, vortec heads etc etc etc etc. Cam is pretty agressive as well.

Welcome (name)!

I'm no expert, but I'll drop in my .000002, adjusted for inflation:

#1: Assuming you have a tight converter, idle speed is no problem
#2: I'd agree the S/W gauge is reading inaccurately. I don't like electic gauges for pressure & temp, they can fluctuate due to voltage changes. IMO, the Autometer gauges (mechanical) seem to be pretty accurate.
#3: No input
#4: See #2. Don't know anything about Eequs. Also, I'd only run a copper line inside the car. Just think about how hot engine oil would be on your leg, plus the mess it'd make if the plastic broke or melted.
#5: No problem at all with the oil pressure. Good rule of thumb with Chevy engines is 10psi per 1000 rpm. Much more than that and you're just wasting power trying to pressurize oil.

Hi !!
Welcome aboard.
My stroker idle at 1,000 and drops to 650-700 in gear (TH400) with a little over mild Comp cam.

I agree with Sid,... Autometer mechanical gauges are excellent, I would invest the money (I have them (oil press, water temp, vacuum & volt) in my SS.

A lumpy cam will produce lower vacuum, do a search on this site, re; vacuum canisters .... there was a post about them 2 or 3 weeks ago.

You can use nylon line, just be careful you don't cause a kink in them. Also make sure their clear of exhaust pipe and are secured also use a grommit for the firewall and you'll be alright. Cooper lines would be better but more work to install, it's up to you which way to go, just remember the above tips on installation still applies, you want to avoid leaks!!!

Your oil pressure seems O.K. as Sid stated.. as the oil heats up the pressure will drop a little at idle and will rise as the RPMs go up. You may need to change the oil & filter if the oil is dark & dirty I would use 10w-40w oil.

I concur with all except #3. I have posted in the past about my opinion of adding vacuum canisters to help your brakes work better. In short : If your vacuum is low enough to make your power brake system work in a substandard fashion then adding a canister "full" of that same low vacuum does nothing except lighten your wallet.

What you need is to add something that lowers the vacuum signal to the brakes such that they have sufficient vacuum to make them operate as designed.


Having said all that there are other opinions on team Chevelle that contradict what I am saying which leaves you with no solid advice. therefore :


I suggest that you try a canister and see if it does anything at all to give your power brakes a boost. Its far cheaper to rig a canister than it is to purchase a vacuum pump. If the canister does you no good then go to a vacuum pump. You won't have lost any significant investment on the canister and someone else on TC may be able to use it for other purposes and you'd be able to recoup your investment.

You will also have empirical evidence which the rest of us would value.