I've started stripping the 66 down to metal to get the $2.00 paint job off. I've heard of using por15 with a flash of primer on top before drying after (cleaning & metal ready). Question is, is this a good approach, what type of primer is the best, is it worth it ? Finding lots of hidden stuff under the old paint (some rust, some filler). Should I at least use the metal ready before primer ??? Thanks in advance.

I haven't ever heard of anyone using POR15 on a complete exterior surface. If you plan on painting this car I would stay away from the POR stuff, use the por on the underbody and floor interior maybe but keep it off the exterior. Use a good quality self etch type primer on the exterior surfaces. Epoxy is antother option.

Used the por15 for full underbody and frame came out like new. what about some surface rust ? just sand, prime ? New at body work and I'll be paying someone to spray it.. Just want to do as much as I can myself first. After stripping a fender, I've found it looks like all is not so bad. There is a coat of enamel, and what appears to be 2 or 3 coats of primer under it. Should I take all of it off or just the enamel? The stripper works great on the top coat, but the primers take lots of work.

I have used POR products for many years and am a believer in it. It's an excellent product line and it does what it is supposed to. Having said that, I would not use it on the exterior surface which is to be "finish" painted... Chassis, frame, rocker's, inside door jambs, underside of trunk, hood etc.. it is perfect. If a car has had a vinyl roof and is getting one again then I'll apply it there as well. Some of these areas of course get "finish" paint but I prep it with POR's Tie Coat Primer which is a high build product, block it down and then one coat of regular primer over it. POR now makes a filler & a glaze meant for use over POR but I haven't used it because of the cost. The stuff costs as much as 24K Gold! :eek: so I stick with Evercoat Rage filler's & glaze.

If you have the body down to bare metal and it will be a while before you can do filler/metal work, then you could use a good vinyl wash such as Sikkens WashPrimer CR or any good etch primer. Note that if you use a wash or etch primer like I mentioned, it will pretty much have to be removed prior to any filler being applied and then recoated afterwards. A good etching epoxy based primer after the filler work will seal everything up nicely and will resist moisture and other nasties. Filler's require a good sound surface with plenty of tooth, so filler to bare metal then to primer. It's one thing to put a little glaze on primer if needed in tiny spots but I never put filler on primer. It's just the way I have been taught & always done it.

Hope it helps.

My question now is, should I go to the bare metal or just strip off the top layer down to the primer, being that I looks like this was done sometime before ? And of course go to bare metal where rust is present ?

Thanks

WARNING There is LEAD FILLER and other toxin's on the body that WILL harm you & your's! ALWAYS Wear breathing protection and dress accordingly! Lead filler is used on the windshield pillar, quarter's to roof seams and often in the rain gutter's and sometimes on the rear deck filler panel.

I can give you a quickie here... If you are doing this your self and the body is all together and on the frame follow the outline below. NOTE: Before getting too carried away with the bodywork make sure that your platform is solid. This means making sure that the body mounts are good & solid otherwise you'll be trying to straighten up "stressed" panels and you be talking like a drunken sailor on a saturday night ;)

The steps...
Sand the whole body down to factory primer (hard red oxide) and pretty much leave it at that point. Remember to keep using fresh sand paper because tired paper just makes lot's of heat and warps metal :mad: . Make sure you use a good orbital or DA sander and don't let it rest at any one spot.

Now you'll have a good view of what needs welding, dent work etc... It's a good time to order panels if needed and get whatever bit's are needed.

Then strip one panel at a time to bare metal using no greater than 80 Grit, 60 if you are very careful. You'll now have a good picture of dent's dings, high's & lows.

Weld you're patches as needed and then filler. My personal favorite is Evercoat Rage Gold & Evercoat Metal Glaze.

Once you have it all straight, primer the panel and move on. Use a good etching primer with high build properties such as Evercoat (http://www.evercoat.com/productCategory.aspx) Slick Sand primer. It's very forgiving, builds well and is good for blocking. It is on the thick side and the recomended tip for the spray gun is 1.7 to 2.0

Once the body is done start the sanding / blocking and you're set.

Hope it answer's you questions.

Steve

por-15 makes a primer called tie-coat that is to be applied over por-15 to allow the use af any paint of your choice.