I'm looking to buy a DA sander. I am new never done body work before. I'm looking for a quality unit don't even know to start looking. My budget is about $150 bucks

BTW pneumatic is ok i have air hookups, its a large compressor but i don't know the technical Outputs of it

Thanks


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Thomas (AKA Hot66ss)
66 Super Sport (Project)
67 Malibu Soon to be 396
69 El camino Beater 350 4 speed (Daily Driver)
Aces Member 2380


Team Chevelle member #262
members.aol.com/chvellss (http://members.aol.com/chvellss) <-- Under Temporary Permanent Construction Just Like My 66

A good old red top "National Detroit" is hard to beat. Also something to think about is what will you be using it for? If you plan on doing a lot of finish sanding a DynaBrade "palm" sander (still a 6" Da style) is a great tool. It sands much finer than a "regular" DA, but it isn't as agressive so if you are going to do a lot of feathering or striping it is not the one for you.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

go to a good supplier and do some shopping. I have a Hudgins it is avery good piece ,quiet and uses less air and has lasted a long time. The dynabrde is also an exceptional piece. i am not familiar with many others but I can tell you the cheap ones wont last and they dont do a very good job good Luck

You may laugh, but my Craftsman D.A. has always worked very well.

I have a hutchins sander. Its fairly expensive, but I wont go back to anyother brand. They have some of the best, if not the best, sanders on the market.

how much $$$ are one of these hudgens sanders?

Thanks

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Thomas (AKA Hot66ss)
66 Super Sport (Project)
67 Malibu Soon to be 396
69 El camino Beater 350 4 speed (Daily Driver)
Aces Member 2380


Team Chevelle member #262
members.aol.com/chvellss (http://members.aol.com/chvellss) <-- Under Temporary Permanent Construction Just Like My 66

Hello;

If I was to do it again, I wouldn't buy a DA as my first sander. A full size DA can't be used for finish sanding without a lot of practice because they cut too fast and can be rocked around which easily puts wavers in the work.

First, buy a long board hand sander. You can't do good body work without one of these.

I'd go for a high speed air sander next. They can be used to remove old paint and clean up any surface crap before begining work.

I'd get an in-line next. They tend to cut "flatter" because of the longer sanding pad and are ideal for any flat areas. They can even work over many outside curves with a little practice.

I'd then get the suggested palm DA sander. They are good for small areas and fine sanding. Also, with a thick sanding pad, they can be used around compound curves.

Practice filler skills. Keep working it till it really begins to harden and you'll get much better results then just piling it in and then leaving it right away. Also, use as large a knife as you can for the surface you're working on. Flat panels can easily use an 8" knife. With some practice, you should just have to smooth off the surface without really cutting much filler down.

I put 2 quarters, door bottom, and fixed a front fender without using the DA. I used the long board with 36 grit paper to rough sand since I just haven't gotten my in-line sander yet.

Peter

Maybe I need to describe what I'm doing and what needs to be done a little better. My elco has about 6 different coats of paint 4 being different colors. Its checking really badly due to a paint compatibility problem, and the checking goes as deep to the factory coat. This leads me to believe I should take the whole car down to the factory coat of paint or primer. I need a tool that is going to shorten the process of striping it down. I would like to avoid using something like an angled di grinder because it will leave me with a unsmooth surface if I don't go all the way down to metal. also another reason is while I am sanding down I want to be able to use the paint that's on there to see low and I high spots so I know where to fill. There will be some spots that I'm going to take to metal like behind the rear wheels, where I want to see how well the previous repair was done. What I'm really am looking to do is get a smooth straight surface so I can put the car in a semi gloss black primer so its ONE COLOR and not black flaking that shows red, blue gold, yellow and primer like it does now. OK sorry I didn't say this in the beginning. What tools should I buy?

Thanks very much

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Thomas (AKA Hot66ss)
66 Super Sport (Project)
67 Malibu Soon to be 396
69 El camino Beater 350 4 speed (Daily Driver)
Aces Member 2380


Team Chevelle member #262
members.aol.com/chvellss (http://members.aol.com/chvellss) <-- Under Temporary Permanent Construction Just Like My 66

Sounds like you should strip it with chemical stripper.Using a Da or grinder will be very time consuming and messy not to mention the amount of sandpaper needed.As for the Da,i have an Ingersol Rand that has worked great for years,saw it in tool catalog recently for $65.chicago pneumatic is nice too for about the same $.get as much paint off as you can with the stripper,then wipe down with laquer thinner and a scotch brite pad.Then sand down to bare metal with 80 grit,then 180 and then 220,then prime with a self etch or epoxy primer.
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70 chevelle,400cid turbo400.blue with silver stripes.http://members.spree.com/entertainment/ochrisl/

[This message has been edited by 70isfine (edited 12-30-2000).]