I have decided to get off my arse and tackle my Project to repaint my entire Camino with PPG BC/CC. I have come up with a preliminary plan on what I need to do. I think this looks about right, but I'm unsure of two things.

One, if I should use an epoxy primer between the etch/primer or if I even need it at all?? Second, do i need to tint the primer to match to the base coat(BC is going to be a dark silver)?

1. Strip paint to bare metal
2. Body work, rust repair, plastic filler
3. Etch Primer (1 coat)
4. K36-2k primer (2-3 coats)
5. Block w/220
6. Wipe down with wax cleaner
7. DBU-base coat(2 mediium coats)
8. Concept CC(3 coats)
9. Color sand w/1500/2000
10. 3M Finesse-it-III


[This message has been edited by ss396boy (edited 02-04-2003).]

K-36 is ok PPG also has epoxy primers and other high build primers.Check with the local PPG dealer for advice and also get the "P" sheets for each.They will explain the process.

I know they have a K38 high build and the DPLF. I have some DPLF that I used to paint up my tailgate and it went on really thick. Seems to be pretty tough, which would make it difficult to block out. That's why I chose the k36/k38 instead.

I believe the DPLF is a non-sanding primer!And it does sand like a bi$%^!!!

Rick

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66 300 Deluxe 350/330hp
72 Elcam 402SS---soon to be a roller cammed 454

Gosh, only ten steps to a resto job http://www.chevelles.com/forum/cool.gifThen why is my Elky taking so long? http://www.chevelles.com/forum/confused.gif

Rick

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66 300 Deluxe 350/330hp
72 Elcam 402SS---soon to be a roller cammed 454

The only flaw I see in the 10 Step plan are the "half-steps"...
1.5 - Get more money.
2.5 - Get some more money..
3.5 - refinance the house...
4.5 - Sell one of the kids....

You get the idea...I just need to find a place that will pay ME to let my kid go to THEIR college...

I've been 3 months on step 2.........

See a few things I would change. First off expoy is not a filling primer like K36 or 38 all its meant for is a primer layer to seal the metal from the elements.

As for the products, etch primer I use DX1791. 2K primer I use K36 and 38 but using more of the 38 now, believe its of higher quality then the 36. The basecoat Ive used both the DBU and DBC, believe the DBC is better then the DBU. The DBU looks kinda bla looks funny not a real true color, like muddy water when compared next to DBC. Clears really like the 2055 and 2042, with the 2055 being the best. Its just flows out great buffs out nice, its great stuff. Another popular PPG clear is the 2021 but it doesnt compare to the 2055 or 2042.

Other PPG 2K primers are NCP250 and NCP271/2. They fill great, the 271 fills better then the 36 in my book, but the stuff smells bad, real bad kinda like sticking your head in a tub of elmers glue. Wetsanding that stuff forget it, it eats paper and takes 3 times as long to sand. And for those reasons I dont use them.

There is no reason to tint the primer. Only K36 can be tinted, K38 ncp250/ncp271 cant be tinted.

Once you got all your bodywork done and mud work apply a coat of etch primer(dx1781) then apply 3-4 coats of 2K primer(K36 or K38). No need for a expoy inbetween the etch and 2K. Continue to block sand and reapply 2K til the panel is level.

Also the biggest thing on any 2K primer is that they shrink. You need to apply your 2K then let it sit for around a week, let it cure and fully shrink down. If you dont, you block sand the primer level only to have it shrink down later and when it does it becomes all wavy again. So let it sit and shrink for around a week before you block sand...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

Thanks guys, just ordered a gallon of K38 and hardener. Everyone says this is the best for the money spent.

Eric
with all due respect
you said there is no need to tint the primer but if you tint the primer close to the paint color dont you use less paint to cover therefore saving money? if the primer and the paint are to totally different colors the primer tends to bleed through at certain angles if you dont put a ton of paint on. this is just what i was told wondered what your opinion was

Robert, i was speaking for ss396boy paintjob. That k36/38 is a gray primer which is pretty close to sliver, so tinting that gray primer is kinda not needed. But yes if the basecoat is going to be say purple or dark blue then by all means tint the primer. I do on my own stuff for two reasons. My 70 SS455 is a dark bluish purple a dodge ram color, any way I did alittle experiment on that car. The hood had tinted primer the rest of the car didnt. It took 5 coats of base to cover the k36 primer, but on the hood it took 3. So yes tinted primer leads to less paint.

I have not noticed any diff in the shade of the color from the hood to the rest of the car.

The second reason I tint is because of rock chips. I drive the car, I dont believe in trailer queens or garage art, so any thing that can help hide rock chips is a big plus. The tinted primer helps camo the rock chip, my tinted primer on the hood was a real dark blue, so if any rock chip develops its kinda masked unlike if its that gray color of k36.

Like I said before only k36 can be tinted, k38 can not. What Ive been doing lately is first using the k38, then the last round of blocking switch to k36 tinted. Tinted primer sands alittle harder and since the car is level you really dont need the fill just looking for that simliar base, I over reduce the tinted k36 slightly making it easier sanding.

You know in all reality you could get the same results by spraying a tinted sealer before appling the basecoat and skip the tinted primer. So basically theres no right or wrong way to do it, just what you feel more comfortable with...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles