Hi group. I finally got my Chevelle to the body shop today and he hit me with more than I was expecting.The cost is 5k and here is what he has to do.
1-Replace both quarter with good mark skins that only go to the top of the quarter, not the full quarter.
2-Patch the bottom of both front fenders and repair various dimples and some so on. Both are in good shape.
3-repair small rust holes in corner of each door and repair small dimples and so on. both doors are in great shape.
Past that it is realigning panels, priming and blocking the car 2 times and applying base clear ppg. He will also install all moulding, paint firewalls. He is pretty impressed with the overall condition of the body and said if it was a true SS car, I would have something. I have added up what we will have in this car when completed and it could top 20k easily. I think that is money not well spent as it could not have a good value if the need ever came up to sell it. What are the opinion on this. I appreciate any input on this.

Thanks,
John Weaver

Thats not a bad price for that work.Does that include parts and material?i know a guy who paid a shop $7500 to put his 68 GTX back together after being repainted by a different shop.(lots of trim,emblems,glass,interior,bumpers)Silly Mopar guys! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

[This message has been edited by 70isfine (edited 09-09-2002).]

[This message has been edited by 70isfine (edited 09-09-2002).]

That is only paint materials and labor. I am supplying all of the hard parts. I have already stripped the car down to bare metal and I am still responsible for complete paint removal of all areas and a 1st coat of self etching primer. He is also putting in 1 passenger side floor pan.

Thanks for the reply,
John Weaver

Thats not a bad price, the first quote I received for what sounds like nearly the same thing your receiving was $7000.00 to $7500. My 66 is an original SS 396 4 sp. car and I will have about $16k in mine and that was with me doing everything except body work paint and upolstery

Rick, this is exactly why I am noodling this. I paid 6900 for the car and had it shipped. The owner misrepresented the car and it was suppose to need minimal body work. My wife wants to clone it into a ss car, and with all new grille, hood, trim and so forth thats another 2500. With 5000 more put into it and it still needing full interior, redo his supposed resotred brake job, and exhaust, I will have in it what you have in your true SS car. I have never done any major body work or tried to paint an entire car, but I am sure thinking about it now.

thanks,
John Weaver

WOW!..Installing TWO 1/4 panels plus some other patch work then blocking and priming twice then painting.....for 5 grand....and you wanna balk?!

The type of work your looking for is no walk in the park.....it is exremely labor intensive....not to mention hot and nasty.....and also something you apparently dont feel comfortable doing yourself....or even have the costly equipment to do it yourself properly.

I have been getting anywhere from $3800.-7K. for show quality paint jobs at my shop. That includes stripping to bare metal, bodywork, and two blockings and primings, paint, then any necessary nibbing / polishing, and final assembly, cleanup and delivery. Also any door/hood/trunk jamb painting. That does not include any Major body work such as replacing qtr. panels. WE spend a grand JUST ON MATERIALS for a job like this.

Just running some quick numbers thru the calculator at my labor rate to do your job.....I'm looking at a minimum of 7 grand.

If you know this guys work and you know it will be the type of job that will make you happy......DONT hesitate.

Would you rather pay a little more than you anticipated to get the car done right......or would you rather someone give you a lowball price....then they realize they are gonna lose on the deal and rush the job out 1/2 assed.

Shannon

I am not balking at the price of this. In fact, from what I am seeing it is a fair price. This guy does some nice work and he will put the car back together better than anyone I know of in the area. His painting can someties be less than desirable, but he also does not use a paint booth but if he does the car, I am gonna rent one. I set aside 15k to turn this into a nice street car for the wife to enjoy. I just want to see what other people are paying to get stuff done and is it in line. Thanks to this board, it will make my decision much easier. I am hesitant about tackling body and paint, but I was also hesitant when I did my first bowtie block 434 small block for someone. But body and paint is in my opinion much more tedious and it is not cut out for everyone.

Thanks,
John Weaver

Don't know pricing in your area, but in the Twin Cities you could easily spend 12 to 15 K for the described repairs at a retail shop. Sounds like your guy is working out of garage or similar. Makes a HUGE difference on overhead. Still if he works on it for four weeks, 40 hours a week, that is 160 hours. As stated take $1000.00 off for materials, that leaves him $4000.00 labor. Divide 4000.00 by 160 hours = $25.00 per hour. If he spends 200 hours, then he is down to $20.00 per hour. Important for you and he to have a clear understanding, at what point does he have the option to adjust price if he cuts car apart and finds more than expected. That is what make resto repairs so difficult to price fairly for both parties. Good luck! Karl

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>have added up what we will have in this car when completed
and it could top 20k easily. I think that is money not well spent as it could not have a good value if the need
ever came up to sell it.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I think its not a bad price for the work... But I wouldn't be surprised to see it go up... Once he starts in on the 36 year old car, he's likely to find more that needs to be addressed... And priming and blocking the car only two times... What if it really needs a third blocking? thats extra.. Rust under the windshield is a common problem... and can be expensive...

As for the value of your car... Common knowledge that with a automotive restoration, you usually can not get out what you put in, money and time-wise... Its usually a labor of love...

If you do the car right, take care of it when its done, then you can probably seel it in a few years and maybe make out okay... As an investment, its bad... If you really want an investment, you are going to have to go with something rare, complete and stock (maybe an LS6 car, or L78, Z16, etc)...

As for "cloning" yours into an SS model... Not that much more than as a Malibu... The grill is the same (just painted black in center), a few emblems, and the rocker trim and of course, the hood... But thats not $2500 more than the Malibu stuff, maybe $2500 to replace everything... But most Malibu trim is the same...

Make sure you decide what you want before he gets to the body (so he can fill any unused holes...

If you do decide to go the SS route, get an assembly manual to help properly locate the emblems... Don't just eyeball them or guess...

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"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
The Chevelle (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/1966_L78/ChevelleA.jpg)
Dual Quad 396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/1966_L78/ChevelleC.jpg)
Side View (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/1966_L78/ChevelleD.jpg)

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 1966_L78:

If you do decide to go the SS route, get an assembly manual to help properly locate the emblems... Don't just eyeball them or guess...

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Absolutely. If you heed ANY advice from this thread, be it this one.

(Hey, Tony, I like your new sig pics. NICE!)

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my 67 droptop (http://www.mdesignstudio.com/chad/other/mychevelle2.jpg)

Interior (http://www.mdesignstudio.com/chad/other/interior.jpg)

big block (http://www.mdesignstudio.com/chad/other/motor.jpg)
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Dad's 67 droptop (http://www.mdesignstudio.com/chad/other/dads67.jpg)

Slopar what is the prive diff on the full goodmark quarter VS the 90% quarter you want to install? I ask this because it might be cheaper to buy the goodmark in the long run then have him splice that 90% quarter onto the existing quarter. I think I know what quarter you are talking about and it runs for about 250-300 bucks. The new goodmarks run at 450. FOr an extra 150-200 bucks I would get the full.

My reason on that is 150 bucks is 4hrs at my shop I work. I think it would be hard to weld that up and get it in primer in 4hrs. The only weld I would make is a butt weld, lap is only asking for trouble. Plus the full quarter is a better and longer lasting repair then splicing it at the sail panel. If it was mine I wont think twice about putting on a full vs 90% Plus doing a full would save your body guy time, and that would offset the increased price diff.

5K is cheap real cheap. Today I priced etch primer, expoy primer and primer surfacer all ppg with matching reducers and such, the bill was 500. That is just primers, depending on your color, base could reach 200 gal. So no matter what you are going to have a grand in paint, even more if you buy it, cause I and your body guy get discounts.

A few things I will add is get everything in writing. That way you and him know excatly what you want done and to what level. But understand that the price could and most likely go up. Outersmight need to be replaced or find that the trunk needs to be patched. By far the most important is that both parties know what is to be done to car.

As for the value after you gt done, yes you will more in it then it is worth. Its always cheaper to buy then build. Should you worry if you get your money out, yes and no. If you did this to make money then I would be worried, but if you did it to enjoy the car and pass it down to the kids then who cares. Ive got about 25k in a 70 cloned SS car with a big block buick, who would be willing to pay 25K for that, no one, but frankly I dont care. Enjoy the car and have fun with it that is what GM built the thing for...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

T hanks for all the replys. I am confused about the goodmark panels. Ausleys told me that goodmark does not make the panels. Only one company makes the panels and they are imported from overseas. As for not using the full pane, the area we are not replacing is in excellent shape and he figures this is a way to reduce the cost. I went by there today and the price is down to 4100.00. I am now responsible for painting under the hood and the front end area flat black. I am now going with the reproduction fenders and not fixing whats on the car. He figured 500.00 to fix the fenders and new ones are a touch over that. I am gonna sell the hood and fenders and hopefully retrieve a few hundred dollars as these are good pieces for someone that wants to do the body work. His price is very reasonable and I know the car will be right. I have the windows out of the car and as of now, the metal looks good around the windows. No doubt I will never get out of it what I have in it, but it is just frustrating having to pay this out when I was supposedly buying a good bodied car. Whats done is done. I would like some input on the panel situation though since I am getting ready to spend about 5k with Ausleys. If these are not goodmark panels, someone please speak up.

Thanks again,
John Weaver

John I know that there is more then one company out there making quarters. As for goodmark actually making them who knows. But there is more then one company. ONe is dyacorn and the stuff they make from what I have seen is always a lower grade then the stuff from what goodmark has. Dyacorn makes 90% quarters for 66-67 chevelles, they have been on the market for about two years now. Thay are a full quarter minus the sail panel area. They sell for around 350, OPG has them in their catalog for 349.

I have seen in person both the dyacorn 90% and the new goodmark full OEM quarter. Just by the way it looks and felt the goodmark piece was more then worth the added 100 bucks. It felt so much heavier and the lines were crisp, unlike the dyacorn;s that seemed rolled instead nice sharpe lines. Its just not the quarters, Ive got a pair of goodmark fenders on my 70, they fit great better then the OEM I took off. The first pair I got, my dealer tried to pass them off as goodmarks but they were not. They were made by dyacorn, they fit like dog breath it was bad. I found out that those first pair were made by dyacorn cause I called up goodmark and they ran the part numbers, it came up as a dyacorn made product not a goodmark. That little experience there tells me that more then one company is out there making this stuff, some is better then others with goodmark being the best.

Also like I said ealier it would be so much easier and better to do a full quarter replacement then slpice it in the sail panel. You have to make sure you algin both pieces right, wrappage from welding and the possible issue of rust coming back through. If your body guy lap welds that seem on the sail panel rust will come back. It might be 5-10 years but it will come back. that lap weld leaves a joint were moisture can work its way in. Where a butt weld willnt, so if he does seem it, insist that he butt welds that joint.

That goodmark panel for 450 is a 100 bucks higher but in the long run it will be cheaper to install. I wouldnt splice that quarter for a 100, no body man would. So by the time he gets the panels to fit right welds it up and slaps the mud to it you will have more then that extra 100 bucks, and on top of that you now have spliced quarter.

If I was doing your car for you I wouldnt install 90% quarters when you can get full OEM for only a 100 -150 bucks more. It might seem cheaper but it wont. I highly recommend the full OEM quarter from goodmark, you will be so much happier if you install it over that 90%, and so will your body guy.

John I would be very happy with your car. It could be worse and be like my current piece, the only original metal on the car is the roof and firewall. Consire yourself lucky.

Also I might add Ive bought tons of stuff from goodmark everytime its being in a goodmark box with a goodmark sticker. If it comes without those then question your dealer and call up goodmark and have them run the numbers. You can also buy from goodmark directly and its always cheaper then buying from year one, opg or anybody. Just my ramblings...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

[This message has been edited by sevt_chevelle (edited 09-11-2002).]

I have a Goodmark fender and door on my 66 and they look good.

SLOPAR
I have been queted $7-8K to have my car done. That is with me purchasing all of the parts including another fend for the drivers side, a passanger door, new quarters. I also need to replace the body mounts myself and do all of the finishing work such as putting on all the chrome moldings, bumpers, door handles etc.

Sounds like you got a good price.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>I am gonna sell
the hood and fenders and hopefully retrieve a few hundred dollars as these are good pieces for someone that
wants to do the body work<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

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"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
The Chevelle (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/1966_L78/ChevelleA.jpg)
Dual Quad 396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/1966_L78/ChevelleC.jpg)
Side View (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/1966_L78/ChevelleD.jpg)

Yeah, hopefully retireve a few hundred dollars for the pieces. I am not overly concerned about selling them, but some will come along. I have had some really good e-mails about the panel manufacturers. I know that if I show up to the body man with anything other than a Goodmark panel, he will send me away. He just finished up a 70ss and he said those panels fit better than some of the NOS stuff he has put on lately. He made a valid point in that alot of the NOS stuff out there now were rejects and people have gotten their hands on them. Most people only assume they will fit with no probem, but he takes pictures of the cars he does and photos don't lie. I have not talked to him about going with a full quarter, and if he is thinking that we should go that route, then that what I am gonna do. Thanks for all the reply on this post as it has enlightened me on the subject and I hope that any one that gets involved in this phase of the project pays attention to what people are commenting on. If I ever make it to a CB event,a round of beers are on me.

John Weaver

Slopar, There is only one manufactor for FULL 1/4s for 66-67. There are others making the 90% or 75% or whatever else is out there. Goodmark gets them from Golden Legion as does most of the other dealers. They rebox them in Goodmark boxes just like all of the parts we recieve from them. They do a great job of promoting their name and offer a lot of items. I have done three 66s with the full 1/4s and have been real happy with them. Mine came from Ausleys PS I have pictures of Goodmark labels and under the labels were the name Golden Legion.