i have recently acquired a 1965 el camino. the car was rescued after sitting my uncle's woods for 10 years. basically, the car needs a little lov and a lot of work. so far i have replaced, the battery, battery cables, starter and ignition switch. there is power going to the starter, but after that, no power. the headlights will not come on, the starter will not engage by turing the switch, and just no power. the starter will spin if the circut is completed via the contacts on the solenoid, but otherwise, nothing. any ideas on where i need to look next, items to fix or replace, and any other information to help me find out where i should look and or fix next? i need to try to see what type of condition the engine is in and until i figure out this power issue and am just stuck. any assistance you can offer will be greatly appreciated.

I am not up to speed on the '65 model, but I would start by figuring out how the power gets from the battery to the fuse block. There are 2 paths that come to mind. One is a wire from the positive battery cable (near the battery) to a junction block and on to the fuse block. Another way is to get power from the big stud on the starter solenoid and carry it to the fuse block.
Another thing to check is the voltage on the red wire that goes to the back of the alternator; this should be hot all the time. You will need to get a test light or a volt-ohm meter to make your detective work easier.

okay, i checked the battery cables. i have no junction box from the positive cable to the starter. the cable connects directly to the starter. i have a test light but i will have to check the cable to the alternator tomorrow as it has begun to rain here in sc. thanks for the input, at least i have a starting point and some more more knowledge than i began with.

not sure about a 65 but on my 66 velle there is a wire that runs from the pos terminal of the bat to a small junction box right in front of the batt... the power then runs to the rest of the car...Sean

Yes...seems that your positive lead should have an "accessory" lead on it.
Check on core support in front of battery(kinda under fender too)I think you'll find a bakelite junction block with two studs,one that the "accessory" lead attaches to and one with a lead on it that powers up the rest of the cars electrical system.

Looks like maybe the power comes from the starter post & goes to the ignition, alternator and voltage regulator.
Unless that's a terminal block not identified.
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/65_bat.jpg

Dean...I certainly would agree that it isn't in that wiring diagram.
Do you have access to one for a '66 and if so,is it different than a '65?
As Sean had posted...'66 and '67 have a terminal block on the core support
tucked under the fender.
Would think '65 is similar but.......maybe not??Just trying to help:)

There is no Junction block on my 65. Check and clean the contacts at the firewall bulkhead connectors. Your ignition switch may also be bad. I had both problems with mine. Here is a link to the wiring diagrams for your vehicle.

http://elcaminocentral.com/article114.html

Good luck. Try not to get to frustrated with it. I have had a lot of fun working on mine.

i just wanted to thank everyone who has sent in tips, and suggestions. i would have nevr believed that these forums would be as helpful as they are. so far i did find a junction box in front of the battery, but i think that it is the alternator regulator. if i start at the red wire on the alternator wire and trace it, it goes around the front of the car and terminates at this junction box. could it be possible that this alternator regulator is causing the cource of my problems? if i ground my test light, and touch it to the red (+) wire from the back of the alternator, i get nothing. same as if i touched the same wire at the regulator. so, it is very possible that need a new alternator too. believe me, as long as this car sat in the woods, i am happy with the current state it is in. i think it will be more fun to work on once i am able to find power. once that happens, then i can concentrate on the engine work, then it will be on to another item in the list of things to fix (that keeps growing). thank you for your help, y'all are the greatest.

I don't think that the alternator OR regulator can stop the power although there probably is a fusible link in the hot wire to the votage regulator that may be possibly blown (or did you say you had power there?)

This is the voltage regulator (or simular at least) which has the main hot wire on the #3 terminal
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/voltage_regulator.JPG

The 66 diagram looks about the same as 65 to me but doesn’t show how the power gets
from the battery to the “splice” (also shows Positive battery cable as being black)
I drew in the red wire but I’m wondering if the splice shown might be a soldered splice
In the harness.

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/66_bat.jpg

I got the wiring diagrams from http://elcaminocentral.com/article-114-thread-1-1.html
(copy and paste URL into your browser address bar)

You probably just need to trace the wire and see where it has power and where it doesn’t
have power.

I've never messed with a 65 so I'm kinda guessing.
Maybe there are better diagrams somewhere or someone that knows more ?

{edit} oops, the "double terminal labeled "BAT" is on the horn relay, not the voltage regulator.

Actually Dean,your added "red" wire makes perfect sense on a '66!Diagram shown does not appear to indicate where the alt/reg "red" wires get their power from. Looks like it shows connection to resistance wire??
"Accessory" lead attached to pos.batt.cable,which in turn,attaches
to terminal block (bakelite w/one stud,1 inch or less square) on core support,which also has a single 10 gauge red wire that goes into the harness on the core support,that harness,in turn, exits core support thru a grommet adjacent to where regulator is mounted(drivers side).In this area, 10 gauge wire(s) (now we're in the main harness coming from bulkhead to fr.lamps/alt/reg)form a "Y" per-say,10 gauge "red" to horn relay,10 gauge "red" to alt.Bottom leg of the "Y"
(your added red wire)would represent lead going to term.block near batt.
Hope this isn't providing more confusion than help!:)

i may need to begin a new thread. i would like to offer a big thanks to all who offered advice on my problem. i now have some power. i also found the bakelite junction in front of the battery (the reason it took so long was that i had no idea what to look for and to think that it would be that simple to find). anyway, after replacing some woring due to them being burnt completely through, and running a new wire from the coil to the main wairing harness at the fire wall, my el camino has power. it will even turn the engine over when you turn on the switch (i am completely amazed this occurs due to the car sitting in the elements for over 10 years). now i have a new problem. when i turn the ignition switch to the on position, the starter begins to turn. same thing if the key is turned to igition and back. as long as the key is in the on position, the starter turns and will not stop until the key is in the off position. i thought it might have been a bad switch, but after replacing it, i get the same results. any ideas of where to look or how to fix this problem?

Somehow power is coming from the igntion switch and going to the purple or purple/white wire.
I would suspect the wire might be on the wrong terminal of the ignition switch.

TC...you say you had to replace wires that were completely burned thru.
Is this the reason the car has been parked in the woods for 10 years??
If so....sounds like someone has been "there" before you.

One thing that I'll suggest you check out......your starter solenoid should have 3 terminals on it....1 large, 3/8 stud for pos.batt.cable and 2 small studs...
one small stud will be marked "S"(start)<<<< purple wire goes on this terminal
(should be the ONLY wire on this terminal)and should only be "live" when ign.switch is in "START" position....the other small terminal is marked "R"(run,resistance)...and on my '66 Camino,has a pink wire going to it. 66 diagram above says its yellow,65 diagram says black/pink.<< I believe(but don't know for certain) this wire is "live" with ignition switch "ON" or "live" constantly.
My thought is that if the wires are reversed on your solenoid it could cause the scenario you describe.....

...what did you tap the "new"wire to the coil into?????

The "R" wire is only hot when the starter is cranking the engine.
Sends full 12 volts to the coil's + treminal

I had thought that was possible myself Dean but wondered why that wire(pink in my case)disappears into the harness for the switch rather than going directly to the coil "+" term.
I'm going to check with one of my customers tomorrow(7/31) that has several Motors/Chiltons shop manuals for 50's -60's cars...see if I can come up with a good wiring diagram.

We sure could use some better - more thorough wiring diagrams.
I've never found one that shows gauges.

Dean....have located a BEAUTIFUL 65 Chevelle wiring diagram! Had a co-worker take it home to scan last nite and he has sent to me as an e-mail.
I have no idea how to now post it on here.If I forwarded it to you, would
you be willing to handle it??

Sure, no problem
send it to me

Should be there!!

TC...you say you had to replace wires that were completely burned thru.
Is this the reason the car has been parked in the woods for 10 years??
If so....sounds like someone has been "there" before you.

One thing that I'll suggest you check out......your starter solenoid should have 3 terminals on it....1 large, 3/8 stud for pos.batt.cable and 2 small studs...
one small stud will be marked "S"(start)<<<< purple wire goes on this terminal
(should be the ONLY wire on this terminal)and should only be "live" when ign.switch is in "START" position....the other small terminal is marked "R"(run,resistance)...and on my '66 Camino,has a pink wire going to it. 66 diagram above says its yellow,65 diagram says black/pink.<< I believe(but don't know for certain) this wire is "live" with ignition switch "ON" or "live" constantly.
My thought is that if the wires are reversed on your solenoid it could cause the scenario you describe.....




The purple wire goes to the "S" terminal on your solenoid. Thats is the terminal CLOSEST to the engine block. That wire is energized ONLY with the ignition in the START position. It is de-energized when the engine is running. Its job is to energize the starter solenoid.

When that happens there is a large copper disk in the solenoid that is pulled towards the front of the engine by a plunger in the solenoid that is magnetically pulled by the now energized solenoid windings (Via that large purple wire). That disk connects the battery to the starter brushes. On the other end of that plunger is a linkage arm that is connected to your starter bendix thru a pivot point on the linkage arm.

.
It also energizes the "R" terminal. Thats the terminal on the solenoid furthest away from the engine block. When that terminal is energized it feeds 12 volts directly to your + terminal on your coil to give the coil maximum current for starting the car.

The plunger connects current to your starter at the same time it engages the bendix to your flywheel/flexplate AND feeds 12 volts to your +coil Terminal

The START position of your ignition key creates a lot of electrmechanical action that most people usually never think about or analyze.


When you release your ignition key to the "RUN" position that large copper disk inside the solenoid is retracted by a spring on the plunger to return that plunger to its rearmost position which de-energizes the starter AND the "R" terminal which was feeding 12 volts to your + terminal on your coil. It also retracts the bendix drive to its resting position.

There should be a 4th wire which should be on your main 3/8" solenoid terminal which is the chassis feed to the cabin of the car. That wire runs to the ignition switch and supplies among other things the ballast resistor wire that feeds a lower voltage current to your +coil terminal when your ignition key is in the "RUN" position. That wire normally has, at the starter end, a "fusable link" which is designed to sever in the event of a ground and save the chassis wiring in the cabin of the car :)

Should be there!!

didn't get anything yet

...used your Chevelle.com address....
will try other one listed....coming from Racecar--@aol...

Whoops...there ISN'T another one!..I'll try again.

as far as tapping the new wire to the coil, here's exactly what i did...from the positive terminal on the coil, there were 2 wires coming off of it. the wire that was burning when the current passed thru it was cut off and also removed from the wiring harness that attaches to the firewall. then a new wire (14 gauge, if it matters) was used in it's place. mind you i took great care in making sure the wire was placed exactly as i found it. i also reattached the 2 wires to the positive terminal on the coil (again, just as i found it). also just for note, i have checked the starter wires and after trying them on both both posts omn the sloenoid multiple times, i have come to the conclusion that they are indeed on the correct posts.

also, the history behind the car in case anyones wants to know. i am the 4th owner in the last 41 years. the original owner bought the car new in '65 and drove it like a "red headed step child". the car was wrecked and left as a total loss by the insurance company in 1967. my grandfather's brother was given the car to get it out of the original owner's yard. he repaired the car and it looked like new. when he became tired of the car, then my grandfather was given the car. when my grandfather stopped driving the car it became parked in the woods. after my grandfather passed away, the car becames mine and restoring it is kinda like a tribute to him. anyway, sorry to have bored you with this, but it is a story i figured needed telling. hope y'all have a great night!

Any thoughts as to why it was burning?

not sure. once the switch was put into the on position, the wire began to smoke and was hot to the touch. also showed signs of carbon on the outside like it was arcing inside the wire. i could not find any place where the wire was "grounding out". but once it was replaced, the only problem i had was that the starter would spin while int ignition switch was in the on position. there is plus side... the engine still would turn after sitting in the woods for 10 years undisturbed. :-)

OK..the starter problem occurred AFTER you replaced the wire??

...and Dean...I think the diagram file may be too big to post...

http://macc.chevelles.net/images/652.jpg



http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/data/500/medium/652.jpg

Half of the diagram ready
tcub, click on the top link to the larger picture and save the picture to your hard drive.

The other half will be coming

the other half

http://macc.chevelles.net/images/651.jpg

Dean...I see you stayed up a bit later than I did! LOL

Dean,Charbilly......sounds to me like Tcub has taken his resistance wire out of the equation......on that assumption....I would have to say that he is now "backfeeding" the "R" terminal(again,assuming that the leads are on the sol.correctly) with 12v when ign.switch is in "ON" position....
Does anyone know for certain if its possible for "backfeeding" to cause the solenoid to engage??

i learned today that i removed the cut and replaced a resistor wire. so, with that in mind, does anyone know where to find a new resistor wire or how to somehow place a resistor somewhere along the new wire. thanks for the help.

See if your local parts store can do something with these..... # D1110 Delco...may have been superceded by #F1103. Were used on '55-'62
Chevs.
..if they can't interchange those....tell 'em you want a 2 terminal ballast resistor for a '68-'72 Dodge Dart(or any other pre '72 Mopar that comes to mind!)....it'll work.
Connect your recently "cut" wire to 1 term....run a new lead to the coil from the other.;)